Is a filler needed for corner cabinets
Comments (9)
jenocurley
14 years agoRelated Discussions
blind corner - Is a filler needed with inset cabinets?
Comments (11)I've decided to box in my blind corner, though it does seem wasteful: 1. Skipping the blind corner allows me to have larger drawers in the adjacent corners, and I prefer the space in drawers to space on a lazy susan. Things on a lazy susan can fall off in the back, and I find the things a bit cumbersome. 2. The lazy susan is pretty expensive. 3. I am planning ample storage space in an adjacent pantry. I'm expecting the builder will put something underneath the countertop for support in that corner, but, in my kitchen anyway, it won't be something that provides storage. An ideal situation would be to box in the blind corner . . . but access that space from the other side; however, that's only really possible if you have a U-shaped counter overlooking a table area....See Moreamount of filler to use with refrigerator in corner against wall
Comments (6)Same problem here, and I have 3 inches between the frige and the wall, on the right. I have a Kenmore Elite french door bottom freezer. The deli drawer can be placed on either the left or right. Since my wall is on the right, the shallow deli drawer has to be on the left, no way to move it and I'm not sure if it would open out if it were on the right. Yes, you can pull the fridge out for deep cleaning, or to change shelves, but that's a hassle not worth it, if there is any opportunity to move it. Something else to think about: In order for the right door to remain open, I have to open the right crisper drawer, and that holds it open, for when I need to put in a large item which requires two hands. On my model, the right side crisper does pull out all of the way, even with the door hitting the wall. In other words, it's manageable, but not the best set up. Mine also has a slide back shelf, very nice for taller items that wouldn't fit otherwise. It's on the right. I guess it could be moved, but when shopping, be sure and check all those things out. If your wall is on the right, be sure you can adjust things properly. I was dealing with it, and really torn as DH didn't want me moving too many things. But, my designer and my cabinet guy (also a KD) have both recommended that I give up having counterspace right next to the fridge for the importance of being able to open both doors wide. I agree with them. There is counterspace that will be a little less than 3 ft away, so I'm moving mine across the room. Landing space is important, but as long as it's not too far away, try to get the fridge in a position where those doors can open!...See MoreDo I need this cabinet? And filler question...
Comments (15)You KD may have put the range there so you would have an even amount of standing room on either side(21") when the dishwasher is open. If you don't have that 9" cabinet, you will only have 12" standing room on the right side of your range. I currently have 12" on both sides of my cooktop and it's impossible to work on that space, especially when it's on a corner. Of course you may decide that you don't need that since it looks like you can pivot to the right and use that counter. I ended up with a 9" cabinet as well in my design and let's face it-it's not ideal. If you do end up with it see if you can make it a pullout, do a drawer on top or at least put a shelf in it. I see it could be useful for cutting boards or baking sheets since it's right by a usable prep zone and the range. Alternatively you could block the corner off with two drawer stacks. You would have a 21" on the right of the range and a 12" around the corner which could be great for wraps, towels, pot holders and some cooks tools. Now that I've said all that, here's what I would do if it were mine. I would allow for some symmetry on the wall cabinets by having a 36" wide on either side of the hood. 18" doors look better IMO. you still may have to use a stool to access the far right one as you are not wrapping them around the corner. This gives you an 18" base on the left of range for towels, pot holders, wraps and cooks tools. I would do a 4drawer stack. Then you could see if your cabinet maker can do a 42" corner cabinet. Some do, some don't. If not that, then any of the other corner options such as LeMans for corner blinds,blocking off, corner drawers, etc could be done. HTH...See Morecabinet extension that eliminates need for filler
Comments (3)Many, but not most, have extended stiles available. It's much trickier for an installer to install with them instead of a filler, though, so you have to prequalify your installer. You need someone with a higher skill set, and he's usually a bit more money. Using an extended stile doesn't "eliminate" the need for a filler, it just gives you that filler attached to the box, without a seam. Using a filler for the proper clearances gives you the same result, just with a seam where the two join. They key to using any of them for proper clearances is understanding the lines. Which takes a good KD. I hope you've found that person!...See Moredesertsteph
14 years agodesertsteph
14 years agorhome410
14 years ago
bmorepanic
14 years agomdod
14 years agoThanks for all the comments!
The concern about the filler is only with the angled corners because these will be Scherrs frameless with full overlay doors. I currently have an angled corner cabinet on top and a pie cut Lazy Susan base. I don't have a filler on top but these doors are not full overlay so they won't interfere with each other.
BTW, I know I have to have a filler next to the walls but I don't really understand how you handle filler with full overlay doors. Do you normally build it out so it is flush with the door front? If the doors go edge to edge, it seems like it would look funny to have a filler section that is back 3/4", especially in the middle of a run. Scherrs can make any size so I wouldn't need any filler in the middle, except maybe with an angled corner.
I hear you on the angled base cabinet making it harder to reach the corner. I also have an aesthetic issue with a single wall angled cabinet when all the other angles in the kitchen are 90 degrees. I wasn't sure if duplicating the angle on the base cabinets would be better or worse but I feel like a blind corner in a wall cabinet would be much less accessible than in a base cabinet so I'm hesitant to lose the angled wall cabinet. OTOH, I've got two narrow wall cabinets on each side of the angled corner and making that a blind corner would give me wider cabinets with more flexibility of use.
Jenocurley, I was wondering if an angled base would limit my laminate edge options. That may be the deciding factor. I hate square edges because they chip so easily. Does anyone know if you have to have a miter corner if you don't get a square edge? My current counter doesn't have a miter but it has a wood trim edge and I don't think I want that again. Also, can they do a miter and put a special edge with the weird shape like I've got here:
The lines are where seams are. I'm not thrilled with a miter but a straight seam one foot from the end isn't great either (the one along the bump out isn't really an issue). I think I'd prefer a miter if I can get some type of rounded edge with that.
Finally, here's a picture of the Lazy Susan door options that I was asking about.
I was wondering if there was a difference in ease of use or durability between the different styles. My current lazy Susan has the door that turn with it. I thought it would be easier than opening a door but it seems like people here don't have problems with the doors and I can get a 32" Super Susan where my current lazy Susan is only 26" across. I also think I'd prefer to open the door and look inside over spinning the thing to see what comes around. It never fails that no matter which way I turn it, what I want is the farthest from where I start.
nkkp
14 years agomdod
14 years ago
nkkp