Depending on age and material getting them wet without promptly drying them can cause rust. If they are no longer on the ceiling a suitably large glass baking dish (or stainless steel) and paint remover is likely to result in less damage. A large 'acid brush' for brick work should remove the paint with little damage. After stripping you can rinse them in hot water, wipe off excess water, and dry them in the oven. Many patterns are still available from specialty makers.

I guess ceramic subways are out of the question? Maybe with a line of glass mosaics in yellow a row or two from the bottom? I think that would give a nod to the nostalgia/age of the home but bring in some pop and the color that you've incorporated into your kitchen with the wall color. The ceramic subways are generally cheaper than slate (I think?), and with only a little bit of the pricy tile interspersed, it wouldn't be all that expensive. I think Bill V. usually says that Dal-Tile is perfectly acceptable tile to use--and I take what he says like the gospel!! I'm (personally) not a big fan of the tin ceiling tile backsplash look. Can't really tell you why--no real rationale. I know some people really like it. For a real budget makeover for the backsplash in an old country home, I prefer painted beadboard. (oh, and do you have pictures of the rest of your kitchen and/or house? I have an 1870's Victorian farmhouse and rarely get to sneak a peek at other homes of the same age!!) Looks great--and I love the stainless/white combo on your appliances!! :) Sarah

Hey there -- I'm not a ceiling person but I have tackled stucco and popcorn ceilings two different ways. #1: The drop ceiling grid (as people have mentioned and you mentioned) is relatively easy, affordable and not messy. You will loose anywhere from an inch to two inches for the drop grid and of course you have to buy the framing and tiles you want. I've done one ceiling with black frames and high-end marbled acoustic tiles (also including lighting) and I've done a huge basement with silver framing and tin tiles -- both fabulous. #2: Cheapest and quickest way to cover popcorn is paint, paint and more paint. I would use a large nappy roller and lather it on, two heavy coats and maybe a third. The popcorn effect will diminish with each coat. New drywall is the absolute best and most comprehensive fix. I would investigate, however, why the popcorn finish was used in the first place (very important). Often this technique is used on uneven surfaces, really large areas, commercial use areas, track subdivisions, etc. I'd advise you against knocking off the points with either scraping or sanding. You will experience chips and clumps falling down. Popcorn finishes have a composite mixed in with the paint for adhesion to its primary surface (either vermiculite or polystyrene). Once you start the chipping or sanding you will have to go down to the bare, bare surface and then patch, paint anyway. Going completely over what is in place now with a drop ceiling or paint -- or pulling the primary surface down and dry-walling is they way to go. Even nailing into that textured surface or trying to "glue" something to it will cause the cracking, chipping, clumping and it will not be secure. My two cents -- good luck.

Here is your photo. Can you direct the retailer to this site to show them what you are looking for? Or now that we have this photo, can you link to the ones you have to choose from, or are they just written descriptions?