Are you saying that is a concrete wall? Is the second photo then showing layer upon layer of paint on concrete? Or is it concrete that was covered with some sort of plaster?

{{!gwi}}
{{!gwi}}

Whatever the surface, whatever the problem, you need to start with a flat wall or the imperfections are going to show through. I can't really tell how deep the indents are. I've never used wallpaper lining, so I can't advise you on this. It is hard to believe that wallpaper liner could hide that much of a difference in wall thickness.

Have you determined what is causing the flaking and cracking to begin with? If it's moisture, it will likely keep happening, no matter what you do. Concrete is notorious for letting in the damp.

I'd start by asking your paint store about a primer that seals the wall. And I'd think about using a wall covering with some texture, like grasscloth, to make the best of an imperfect surface. Here's a link to some images from a Google search.

Here is a link that might be useful: Textured wall coverings

"Is the second photo then showing layer upon layer of paint on concrete? Or is it concrete that was covered with some sort of plaster? "

I was thinking the same thing, maybe it's the photo but it looks way too thick to be paint and I wondered if that was plaster too.

Paper is not a substitute for proper wall prep. You need to create a smooth, dry surface or you will continue to have problems whether you paint or paper. Also, neither paint nor wallpaper will cover the uneven surface satisfactorily and in either case, if you don't fix the underlying problem, you will just be adding to it.

If the problem is moisture, make sure you don't have a leak or drainage problem behind it or you could create a mold nightmare. The sooner you fix water leaks the better. If there is no leak and no ponding, sealing the wall with a shellac or oil based sealer (like the original KILZ might be a good place to start. I would then float the wall to get a smooth surface and then coat with primer -- another layer of KILZ for the repaired areas. Then you can proceed with paper or paint.

If you have 80% humidity and don't have AC or a dehumidifier, I don't know that you will be happy with paper anyway. I live in the Houston area and it isn't that bad, but we can get peeling paper in humid bathrooms. Mold and mildew grow above 50% -- not sure you will get paper to stay on the wall and not mildew.

I am in construction and have a lot of experience applying finishes to concrete. Concrete hardens via a chemical reaction between water and cement. Additional water is needed to make the concrete workable enough to pour into the forms. Most of this extra water needs to dry out before applying paint, wallpaper or any other "adhered" finish. If the water is still in the concrete, you can apply a special sealer to keep it in. Otherwise, it will make its way out and cause paint or glue to fail.

I recommend contacting a materials testing lab to do a couple moisture tests before applying any new finish. Once you have the results you can compare to the requirements of the new finish or glue. You can find this information on line or call the manufacturer's technical department for help. Good luck!
Lisa

Hi all,

Thanks for your advice.

It is a concrete wall covered with plaster. Before I painted the wall with latex the wall surface was quite smooth except looking a little bid old and slighly chalky. I painted with several layers of latex on it. The new wall looked beautiful with shining surface but lasting about 14 months. Then the latex starts cracking, flaking and peeling. If I peel off the latex layer a smooth old wall will come back.

The summer is hot and humid here. AC and humidifier are on when I'm at home but not running round the clock.

I'm prepared to remove all loose latex and sand the wall thoroughly. Afterward I'll
coat the wall with;

Gardz
http://www.zinsserdirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=96

OR
Peelstop
http://www.zinsserdirect.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=1_4&products_id=26

for hanging wallpaper.

My second thought is whether I need to hang lining paper. The wall is quite smooth. After finish I expect the wall can last for great number of years. Advice would be appreciated.

Besides which sealer will be more suitable for my application, Gardz OR Peelstop.

Thanks in advance.

B.R.
satimis

The two most likely things that have happened, is that the wall was painted in oil based paint and you painted over it with the latex which won't stick properly without proper prep. The other possibility is that the old paint was latex but you didn't sand it to get rid of the old chalky layer and the paint didn't stick properly. You have to remove that new paint you put on there and then figure out what type of paint was on the wall underneath before you go further.

Hi trancegemini_wa,

The old wall was painted with white latex. It looked smooth without damage but a little bid old with some dirty marks. I painted over it also with white latex without sanding. I have removed some peeled off latex. The old wall comes back.

I'll prepared hanging wallpaper NOT repainting the wall

Hi satimis,

I recommend calling Zinsser directly. The product data for Peelstop says it can be used on cured concrete. The definition of "cured concrete" varies by situation. It can be anything over 28 days old OR concrete at a moisture content of "x"%. The "x" is specified by the coating manufacturer, in this case, Zinsser. The best way to find out is by asking them. Try to reach the technical department instead of a salesperson.

Lisa