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Electrical Wiring

Put Plug on Hardwire Track Light?

11 years ago

I need to convert a hardwired halogen track light to plug-in and I want to know if I can use 15 Amp, 125 Volt 2-Pole 2-Wire, Non-Polarized Angle Plug on the wire and just plug it in a standard electrical outlet.

There is a converter but the cost is about 1/2 the cost of the fixture. The plug is a little more than $1 and I need a shorter wire than the converter plug has so I would have to cut that too.

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Comments (4)

kurto
11 years ago
Generally speaking, you can't convert a fixture designed to be hardwired into a cord-and-plug fixture and maintain UL certification. The challenge is properly attaching cordage to a device that wasn't designed to have any.

Even if you decide to rewire this fixture yourself (against code), please make sure that you use a properly connected polarized plug so that the light sockets have the proper electrical orientation.
hillybelle
Original Author
11 years ago
Thank you for your response. I think I understand what you are saying, however, the electrical outlet is in the ceiling and the cord from the fixture won't be removed. I would just add the plug to the existing cord and plug it in. So, I need a polarized plug as apposed to a non polarized plug. Does this mean that one side of the plug is larger than the other?
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You should be able to. There are track adaptors which will take a basic cord for a pendant or a plug in. I've linked to the plug in version. Look for EP 814. If you go to the next page, the EP 815 can work as well. You'll just have to cut the actual plug off and wire your fixture directly into the 815. This one is nice since there's a ring to support the weight of the fixture. I don't know if your light has a support cable or not. You obviously don't want it hanging just from the plug with no support. Here is a link that might be useful: Plug in track adaptor
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Never has so much bad information been provided to a questioner. Wires from the wall switch exit through a hole in the blue-painted drywall. They're contained within the cord cover and run to the ceiling. The wires are attached to the white connector on the ceiling. The connector plugs into the end of the track and provides power to the track. The pendants are attached to the track and receive power from it. To remove the cord cover, you will need to run wires from the wall switch to one or more electrical boxes you'll install in the ceiling. Those wires will run inside the blue wall. The number and placement of the electrical boxes will depend on the lighting you want to install: If you want to install track lighting, you can install one electrical box where the current connector is and attach a track lighting connector to the electrical box. See page 2 for an example. If you want to install a fixture like this, you can install one electrical box centered over the length of the counter over which the fixture will be installed. If you want to install independent pendants, you'll install one electrical box for each pendant, located precisely at the points where you want the future pendants to hang.
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kurto
11 years ago
If your fixture was designed for hard wire installation, it doesn't have a cord. Instead, it some wires that are meant to remain inside the fixture. There's a different type of wire that is designated "cordage". Among other things, it's typically made up of stranded wire (as opposed to solid wire) for flexibility.

Yes, a polarized plug has one prong (for the neutral wire) that is larger than the other. It's important that it is connected to the fixture in the proper orientation to reduce shock hazards.

How are you going to turn this fixture on and off? Is the outlet in the middle of the ceiling switched?
brickeyee
11 years ago
"Even if you decide to rewire this fixture yourself (against code)"

The NEC does not actually address this.

Internal wiring is covered by NEMA and then the construction passes a listing lab (like UL).

If you use UL approved components in a workmanlike manor there is no prohibition on making things for your own use and using them (you could even se4ll tham if you are wiling to accept the liability that results).

Old fixtures and equipment are rebuilt all the time and used without issue.

Adding a plug is not nearly as touchy as cutting one off and hard-wiring.
In THAT case the standards get very touchy.
Cord and plug connected loads are pretty much outside the NECs purview (except the actual cor used to plug it in).

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