Funny that you guys started to discuss this just when I am about to start this same project myself. Here are my findings. First off, if you plan of putting a counter on top of the new 3.8 cu ft FL, good luck, and have your pocket book ready. You see, the deepest "standard" counters are those for kitchens, at 25 1/8". Assuming that one leaves around 5" of clearance behind those newer FL machines for vents, air circulation, heat, etc, then you are looking at about 30"-35" of depth, depending on how flush you want the counter to come to the front of the machine. Having said that, there are 3 prices for laminate counters in the stores (like Home Depot). The counters you see in the store in stock are the cheapest, and will cost around $10 li ft. If you need to pick a finish that matches say the sink counter top in your bathroom where the machines are also located, then that is considered a custom order, even if it is a standard depth. This will easily double the price to $20 li ft. Now if you want to order a non-standard depth so that it goes from the back of the wall to the front of your new FL, then you are looking at $35-$50 li ft, depending on type of finish like rounded vs sqaure front edge, back ledge or no ledge, etc... Keep this in mind when shopping for a counter top. I would like my counter to cover the machines completely, so I might have to bite the bullet and order the more expensive counter top.... Again, I am talking about a laminate counter top, no fancy materials here.... I am from Canada, and here is what the local Home Depot quoted me in Canadian dollars for the 3 options.. 1) In-Store counter (limited finishes) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $68 CAD Custom order counter (you choose the finish) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $132 - $150 CAD 30 Csutom order counter (you choose the finish) 30-35" (non standard depth) X 6 feet = $222 CAD I believe the last option of non-standard depth only allows for a square front edge finish. If you want a rounder edge in front, like that found on your kitchen counter, the price jumps to $500 CAD, since the guy said that they have to charge for a full 4X8 sheet, and then cut the custom size from there, in order to get the rounded front edge... One other option you can do, which my brother did very nicely is lay down 2 sheets of plywood (for extra thickness), and tile the top and sides, looks really nice, but is a lot more work...

I would just use a mineral oil and beeswax combination. Some people prefer the look of tung oil as it has a darker more amber color to it. And by tung oil finish I don't mean Waterlox. I see a lot of posts calling Waterlox a tung oil finish which is really not correct. Waterlox is a varnish, just like the oil based Minwax Polyurethane you find at any hardware store. But it uses phenolic resins instead of polyurethane resins and one of the oils in the forumulation is tung. But it is very different than a 100% tung oil finish. Don't get my wrong, I love the look and repairability of Waterlox compared to many finishes but I would not put it on a food prep counter.

Hi there, just wanted to share our walnut island top refinishing experience. We got our 2" thick, 72" x 36" walnut top unfinished. My finish carpenter cut the piece and routed the edges. I sanded to 320 with an orbital sander, and then finished with hand sanding. Did this outside on the covered porch because it creates such a mess (red dust everwhere). Took me a couple of hours to get it where I wanted. We then moved it into the garage (to keep smell away from kids) where I applied the waterlox finish (6 days, 6 coats). Lightly sanded b/w coats 2, 4 & 5. Directions say to get it fixed in place no later than one week after delivery to avoid warping (we did it at day 8). Make sure you do this b/c ours started to warp ever so slightly --you can only see it if you examine unerneath closely. (we live by the water and received this during a heatwave!!) I applied waterlox to all sides to further protect it from warping. After we did the underside, we flipped it and put it on boards with screws sticking out to keep it elevated while we finished the top side. It is a lot of work, but saved at least $1500 doing it myself. Here is the finished picture (we still need to do the final steel wool at the one month mark when fully cured) (excuse the mess we are getting ready for painting). we got our top at the hardwood lumber company $900 delivered. ($150 for truck delivery), but this was for 2" thick. PS I am a petite woman who is only slightly handy and I had help only to move the piece into place -- so if I can do it you can!! It was a little stressful because I was terrified I would ruin it -- but it came out fine. : ) Good luck and be patient. Here is a link that might be useful: hardwood lumber company

Look for Buehl's thread "new to GW? Help posting pictures.." There are detailed instructions in that post. It is usually on page 1, sometimes it slips down before being bumped. Essentially, get yourself a photobucket acount set up, upload your photos, and then you will click on the html code, copy and paste it into your message here. When you do the Preview Message, you will see the photo. But look at that post for better details. As far as your kitchen, my friend is doing exactly what you are talking about. She chose Giallo Ornamental for her counters. She though about black too, but I cautioned her that it might look too dark for her space. Her counters currently (well, before they were ripped out) are a light formica. So, to make the drastic change I think would have darkened the space. The colors in the GO really worked nicely with the black appliances, the oak, and the gray in it worked with the stainless faucet and sink. Don't worry about your tile backsplash yet, find the counters first. Hope this helps you. Here is a link that might be useful: New to the forum thread