#1 appears to be for bronze paint on aluminum cladding for the frame and sash with normal double pane Low E glass and a normal 2 7/8 jamb depth plus pine extension jambs to make it 4 9/16", perhaps the interior face of the sash is pine too and probably a pine veneer on the inside face of the interior screen. #2 is for white paint on aluminum cladding for the frame and sash with tempered glass (odd for a typical window) with a 2 7/8" jamb ready for 1 5/16 fir extension jambs, perhaps the interior face of the sash is fir too, and probably a fir veneer on the inside face of the interior screen. Check the model number/name of each window (Axiom?) and be sure they are not replacement windows (I assume they are for new construction). Make sure the window will meet the applicable energy code with the internal gas specified, and internal mullion spacers (Andersen windows need a more energy efficient gas option). Make sure there is one window in each bedroom that meets the emergency escape and rescue minimum opening size. Tempered glass is generally required near doors and if the bottom edge of the pane is below a certain dimension from the floor and the glass pane is larger than a certain size.

Marvin Ultimate with new construction install generally start out easily over $1k ea, and you have 3 windows there so I'd definitely say that is within the range of what's normal. Exact install circumstances and options would dictate how good the deal is.

"but is there no way to clad a window properly? " None besides paint that requires periodic renewal as it weathers and develops breaks in the film. There is no way to make a seal that will exclude water indefinitely (or in many cases even for a reasonable time). "I have see clad windows that are 20+ years old that are fine." Have you taken them out and apart to determine if they really are in good shape? I would bet money that there is rot under the cladding. The cladding may still look good, and the wood surface on the interior may still look good, but there is no way to tell without tearing them apart if rot has started. Solid wood windows can almost always be repaired (unless they have really been allowed to decay extensively). Every piece of the window frame and sash can be replaced. I have worked on wooden double hung windows that are original from the late 1700s (old town Alexandria, VA). No one wants to perform maintenance, and the continued search for 'maintenance free' has led to all sorts of solutions that are never going to last as long as a plain old wooden window. Windows being made now are generally estimated to have a life of only 30-40 years.

With great success, we have used Eagle, Kolbe and Marvin windows. These are three manufacturers that build high quality and very durable products that are also very similarly constructed. We generally seek three bids from each division of our building scope, so we find comfort in these three as the highest quality. The decision between the three is then made based on the manufacturer's ability to meet the project's required specification and of course, the price estimates. Most all higher-end wood window products today contain standard options like stainless steel hardware, hidden multi-lock casement lock systems, folding cranks and pivoting sashes for ease of cleaning without the requirement for ladders or scaffold. Many offer an array of standard clad color choices and interior wood species. If you'd like to make an educated decision on your window choice, compare items such as U-value, air infiltration rating, design pressure ratings and warranties. After you have narrowed your selection down based on this criteria, take a look at the individual corner/cut sections of the windows. This is likely the most practical method of foreseeing the durability of a windows construction, if the veiwer has some common sense in how different materials should be joined or applied to each other. In regards to a previous post, it is true that there is great strength in wood sash or frame construction, just like there has been for hundreds of years. Some companies provide a cosmetic wrap known as roll-formed aluminum cladding over the exterior of the wood, which also helps protect the exterior wood from the elements. Other companies use a heavy gauge extruded aluminum cladding that allows for structural corner jointery within the extrusion and combines with the wood sash to enhance the overall structural integrity of the sash and frame. The latter construction method will likely be found to provide greater DP ratings and potentially a more durable product. To further comment on the above post, it is true that reputable companies using roll-formed aluminum sash construction do not experience color differentiation between the sash and extruded frame in short time periods. This differs from less reputable companies using the same construction methods in that the correct way to protect the light gauge metal is to utilize a special "kynar" blended paint to assist in color retention. This is critical due to the paint application differences in roll-formed and extruded aluminum. Roll-formed aluminum requires a light flexible paint to allow the metal to be bent or shaped after the paint has cured. Extruded aluminum is already formed, and thus recieves a hard durable paint finish somewhat similar to how a car body is painted. I personally have nothing against the Pella product noted in the above post. On the contrary, I have a lot of respect for Pella, as a maker of fine products in the Heartland of our country. However, I think that all consumers should receive unbiased information on such critical home fixtures. If you find the price levels of a good quality and highly durable window product out of your home's budget, be sure to closely view the corner sections of each product line within the window manufacturer's different products that fit your budget. My recollection of Proline Series windows from Pella shows that there are more than just options that differentiate that product line from the Designer and Architecture Series, although it might be true that this is what separates the latter two Series. One will only know for sure if they look at the corner/cut sections of the different product lines. Keep in mind, just because a company excels in one product line, doesn't mean that their other product lines hold the same value. I personally don't agree with manufacturers saturating the market with different product lines and relying on their previous reputation to further sales, but it appears that all companies are doing just that these days. I feel that one should do what one does best and concentrate on doing the best in their immediate field of expertise, so be careful in your window decision. Also, I feel strongly that at all costs, one should push the limits of their home construction budget on the permanent fixtures of the home. This includes, but is not limited to, excavation/soil compaction, foundations, framing components, insulation, interior or hidden plumbing, windows and wiring. Having to re-engineer or replace any of these components in the future can generally cause a major disruption to the whole building envelope.