We ordered ours from Van Dykes also-they have a good selection and they came just a few days after we ordered them. Very happy with them-I know our contractor recommended a different site that had cheaper legs then Van Dykes-but not the selection I wanted.

Epoxy the bolts back in place in the legs and make a skirt (lip) for the table. This should sit back from the edge of the table and encircle the outer permiter of the legs. Hopefully the legs are positioned so as to allow room for the skirt. Reinstall the legs and glue and screw the skirt to the legs on the sides and end of the table. This will allow the legs to counter-support each other. Small corner braces could be used to also attach it to the tabletop. The wider the skirt, the more stable it will become. A 1x3 or 1x4 would probably do. But be sure not to make it too wide and obstruct the knee space. (Not the best of furniture construction, but better than before.)

Oh, and if the hole is too big, you can move up one size in the diameter of the hanger bolt. Though I've often found that the hanger bolt is threaded minimal depth into the leg. Thus precipitating a split. I normally drill a pilot hole deeper (into fresh wood) and run the new hanger bolt deeper. Wood filler will not hold well. I use epoxy sticks (QuikWood) is one brand. I smear a little Vaseline on the bolt prior to putting it in, or you'll never get it back out should you need a repair again.

We put in wood floors two years ago, and put all sorts of things under the legs of chairs and tables, so I have some experience with this. We first went with the felt pads. Those were great because the furniture slides with ease with felt pads under them. The problem arose when the adhesive holding the pads to the bottom of the chairs started getting on the floor. It is a bear to scrub off the floor. We also have cats, and those felt pads were cat hair magnets, giving our kitchen chairs fuzzy feet. So we ditched those (although they are still on the heavy, not often moved furniture like the couch, loveseat and dining table). Next we bought plastic rounds kind of like what you pictured. They didn't last long because I felt they were too hard and would scratch the floor. Now we have rubber round things much like the ones you picture, and they are lovely. The furniture doesn't slide as easily, but the rubber is soft, nothing gets on the floor, and cat hair isn't as much of a problem. My suggestion to you is to remove those wooden things and replace them with rubber things. I may be a bit of a hypocrite, as I have one chair that has metal rounds like that on its feet. I don't have the heart to mess with that chair (it was rather expensive), so I have tacky plastic coaster type things under the feet of that chair. That is the worst of all choices, because the chair needs to be in contact with the ground to move it at all times to keep those dumb coasters in place. Good thing that chair is good looking enough to make up for its tacky coaster feet (and not often used).