Light oil sprays at a concentrate of no more than 2% ten to fourteen days after full bloom. Actually we have a service that monitors flight with Degree Growing Days and tells when to spray, but those days I think would put you close. You can put out traps. We did use Sunspray, but I think we switched two years ago to a generic. I can't think now what it is, but Sunspray would be fine. Then put it on again after 10 days. It works best against against scales and aphids and other things. An organic orchard can just get buggy. Eventually the predators will move in, but until they do you can have small problems. The oil sets back the bad bugs without killing the good bugs. An organic orchard is neat, because you will see Praying Mantis and others. Won't see those in a nonorganic block. But sometimes you can have an outbreak of things like aphids and it takes awhile for the predators to catch up. That is where the oil comes in. An interesting thing about summer oil is the Phds don't think it does a great deal against CM, but the old timers think it helps enough against CM to warrant putting it on. I am beginning to wonder if we won't eliminate the oil and go with Entrust, GV and lures. I think we will. I think others already have. Entrust has to go on about every seven days. It is expensive and for your purposes you would be better off with Delegate. My buffer has been Guthion, but that is going the way of the dodo bird. You really need to check out Delegate. I have no knowledge of attract and kill as these have never been approved for certified organic. My knowledge is from a year ago so things might have changed.

That looks like some shot-hole on those end leaves. For the ex-blossom parts I can't tell whats going on from the pictures but you may have brown rot blossom blight, it basically rots the blossoms. You need to start doing dormant sprays of copper or lime/sulphur for sure, both at leaf fall and just before leaves come out in the spring. For the brown rot if thats what you have get some Monterey Garden Fungi-fighter for example and spray that right now. Before doing anything, look at more pictures online, in particular of brown rot blossom blight and other blossom blights and see what matches. I do think you have multiple diseases together and that can make diagnosis harder. Pears don't get the same shot-hole the plums get and I'd need to see pictures to know whats going on there. For worms, look at how to control codling moth and oriental fruit moth in the pears and plums, respectively. Scott

OK, people here's the deal.. The moths are the end stage of the eggs that have been laid on grain or seed products. they survive most procesing, so if a product gets to be old enough, they hatch. Ever see that little stringy stuff in a bag of flour or bisket mix... larvae tracings. Any good grain food left alone long enough will develop them. Fresh seed products, like bird seed will have them show up faster. Easiest remedy? put all starch containing items, (flour, biscuit mix, cereal, etc ) in the freezer. Short term freezing kills the eggs, and you have no moths. downside is that freezing induces moisture into the product, and shelf life after thawing is reduced... to about 2 weeks after thawing. The other is an upside to having moths and that is that they are harmless, a part of nature, and will only exist in GOOD food. I will not contaminate my house with chemicals to get rid of a few harmless moths, their larvae or eggs... We have become so afraid of the things that exist in nature, that we recoil at naturally occuring life. Get over it, I am a lot more concerned about the chemicals in my water and pesticides on my food than a few LIVING moths...think about it.

Like others said, once CM have found your tree (and the nearby trees), they will be there. Keep in mind, CM seems to have about 2 generations in a growing season. If you want to go an organic route with Spinosad, you may want to add "sticker" to a tank before you spray Spinosad. It's sticky liquid used as adhering agent so chemical/spray stays on trees/fruits longer. The inexpensive one is called Bonide Turbo Spreader Sticker. You can find it at Lowe's or Home Depot. If you google old Gardenweb thread, you'll see pictures how others bag apples with ziplock bags. The same method can be used on pears.