you are in zone. 4 ... isn't it going to snow in a few weeks ??? ... NO FERT .... and with the trees.. NO FERT EVER ... the trees will just come and take it ... and hosta just dont need any other soil amendments.. in loam .... i am sure you can find the topic HOW TO MOVE MATURE (OR FULLY LEAFED OUT) HOSTA with the search button ... like i would have to ... do NOT put shredded leaves on top of hardwood mulch ... you may as well cover the mulch with soil ... and that isn't what we want... mulch the bed.. but leave a ring of a foot or two around each hosta.. if you want to fill that area with the leaves. that would be great ... after the ground freezes ... dig hole .. loosen the soil .... grab the pot... tape the leaves ... pull out of pot... knock off potting soil .. into the hole ... stir with native soil .. insert in hole.. push in firmly .... water thoroughly ... mulch the bed with the hardwood after all the hosta are in .. leave the tape for a week or two ... add leaves after the ground freezes .... the crown should be within one inch of the soil surface ... good luck ken

That is the normal effect that happens when oak is stained for the first time. Once a finish is applied, stains no longer work. as the finish prevents then from soaking into the wood at all. Removing the finish would need to be done by a professional stripping company to get all the finish off. Gel stains can be applied over a finish, but gel stains are more of a modified paint than a stain. Your best(easiest and least expensive) option would be to refinish the cabinets.

I used liquid rooting hormone and stuck my toothpick-prepped cuttings (prepped late August/early September 2017) into a punctured bag of pine bark mulch, setting it against the east side of my house over the winter. The spot gets morning sun only, plus wind protection. About half of the deciduous cuttings (including winter honeysuckle) now either have new leaves or healthy-looking buds (azaleas), while two varieties of evergreens still have green needles. I am not gonna mess with the cuttings for a couple of months yet, then plan to scoop the ones obviously alive into either pots or in the ground in a partly shaded spot.

cor, I don't even know what you did here. the wood needs to be complete stripped bare. you need to keep the grain open when applying the dye/and the liming wax. did you dilute your shellac 50/50 w/denatured alcohol? did you read the link w/all the directions? yes,,you had a major fail. this was a good oak piece that would have taken a nice ceruse, if done correctly. I said it was an insane amount of work. no shortcuts can be done w/this. now you know. this is raw oak. not a stitch of stain or color on it. I left the grain a little raised for better absorption. this is how that table should look before you even start those doors should be taken off to work on and that whole piece should be somewhere where you can strip and sand it. did I mention it takes hours and hours? you can't just sand off half the stain, put on new stain, shellac and liming wax! doesn't work that way.