Here are mine in a greenhouse one year after planting in 10 gal pots. The two wire trellis is already full. Right now there are 11 pots on 32 linear ft of trellis but that will be reduced to 4-8 after I see how vigorous they are and which varieties I like best. The plants grew at least 20ft the first year. Haven't decided yet if the foliage will stay on top of the wires or hang down each side. In the past two in-ground vines were on this trellis. They hung down each side but were overly vigorous hence the pots to give me better control of water and vigor. I'll get sweeter and more flavorful fruit by shorting water some.

I have a few thoughts... I've tried cane pruning on a couple vines, and I couldn't tell any difference in the fruit quality or the yield so I abandoned the idea. I find spur pruning to be quicker and a lot simpler. In my opinion, either method is fine unless you are dealing with one of those few varieties that do no produce fruit on the first few buds. Dis-regarding those varieties, just go with what you know and what works for you. The only other reason I can see that cane pruning would be better is that buds with high light exposure usually produce more fruit. With cane pruning you can choose the canes that got the most light whereas with spur pruning your choices are very limited. We have plenty of sunshine here, so I don't see it as an issue, but in Oregon (not as much sunshine) it may be more important. I'm guessing the distinction between table and wine grapes is because, with wine grapes, you don't want high yield (many clusters are often dropped at veraison) so being a little less fruitful is no problem. I've visited several commercial vineyards here in Idaho. We have both table and wine grape vineyards in the area, and all that I have visited are spur pruning and producing very high quality fruit. I know that what is best for commercial growers is not always what is best for "backyard" growers, but in this case, it does show that spur pruning is commercially viable (at least in the Snake River Valley). Fruitnut, I think it was you who, a couple of years ago, advised me to visit the U of I research facility. I'm really glad you did, I got some vines (cuttings) from them and learned a lot about viticulture and fruit growing in general. Thanks for the suggestion.

All grapes like heavy pruning actually. Vinyards have two wires. 1 wire is producing grapes on 2 year old wood each year while the secound is growing vine to set fruit on the following year. Dormant season following hearvest, oldest vine that just produced is cut back near permanat central leader/stump leaving only a few health buds.

Weeper: Like you I found a lot of conflicting information out there. I eventually stumbled across Prof. Tom Zabadal's youtube chanel. In a nutshell, he has taken a lot of his lectures aimed at commerical growers and posted them online. There is a lot of info, far more than most will want but better too much than too little. It is all based on a long career of field work in viniculture dating back to the early 70's and is very practical vs pure academia. All trainign methods are covered from the most common to obscure with pro's and con's for each system. Some 34 videos in all and still adding regularly. Guyot can be found here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eO_zyG5BGTg but if considering that you may want to look at umbtrella kniffen which should be more productive. He will also explain why. Trying to push the zone? in that case perhaps fan training is for you. Some of the later videos on pruning for winter injury are helpful in assuring that the training method and style of pruning do not promote winter die back. All in all I found a lot of info made available thru this channel. Its a bit like taking a course but you can skip thru the sections that are not applicable to what you want to do or learn. 34 videos and counting all posted here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZ7llYhkcOS5eBIS9nMy4LA . Cheers, Dave