Thanks so much everyone. Sorry I wasn't able to respond to this sooner - I didn't realize anyone had posted on this recently. Yes, its the same cap molding used to frame out the niche. The pocket door is fine since this is off my bedroom but its a pain to lock. I think thats because I have an extra thick vintage door rather than a standard one. If this were a bathroom that was more "public" like a guest bath or off a hallway, I'd definitely be looking for a better lock than the cheapo one we found at Home Depot. I did use the basketweave in the shower as well. No issues at all with it being too slippery (I was concerned about that but its a non issue) I love the lighting in here. In addition to the side lights, I have overhead recessed lights as well a skylight. Its great for makeup application, eyebrow plucking, etc. My old bathroom had a single overhead light and now Im totally spoiled! Hope that helps. Thanks so much for your kind words!

"What I learned: -Some contractors are set in their ways and others are problem solvers" Or maybe we have done it enough times to know what the problems are? "-When building converging pocket doors, use a single rail instead of two with the convergence kit. The two separate rails with converging plate is not reliable to keep the doors converging properly." What a discovery. Stop the presses. If you cannot get track long enough the best fix is to use a a single piece in the middle and a section on each end in the pocket to make up the needed length. This leaves any mismatch in the pocket and it does not show. "To solve the problem of either door sliding too far into the other's space, use stoppers above in the center and guides at the bottoms left and right." Or cable the doors together so they both operate at the same time. "The drywall guy said the pocket framing was too weak and the wall might flex...It doesn't, and so what if it did?" If the wall flexes the drywall will start to get spider cracks and look bad in a few years. The 1x lumber used for the pre-frame kits (even when wrapped in steel) is NOT as stiff as a 2x lumber wall. Depending on the AHJ you may NOT get away with wall switches that are outside the pockets. If the switches well away from the opening are not acceptable, the only thing you can do in a 2x4 wall is put in some low voltage switching (or you can violate the electric code and use undersized boxes). The switch is 2 wiring allowances, plus 2 more for the wires, plus another for ground. That means you need a box with a minimum capacity of 5 #14 wiring allowances, or 10 cubic inches. The shallowest device box for 5 #14 wires is 2 inches deep. If you try to go up to a 4 inch square the minimum depth is still 1.25 inches. Closer, but you still need a plaster ring that adds about another 0.5 inches. Neither of these will fit in a 1x wall since 0.75 inch wood + 0.5 drywall only gets you to 1.25 and you still need a plaster ring for a 4 in square box. The Johnson track kits cannot come off the track because of the design. They use 3 wheel (4 on the heavy duty kits) boggy inside a 'C' shaped rail (the opening points down). There is simply no way to get them 'off the track'. The biggest problem with the Johnson kits is the plastic guides scratching the face of the doors. TI solved this by using aluminum angle on the floor of the pocket and a groove in the bottom of the door. The other 'trick' is to extend the door by about 1.5 inches on the pocket side if required to keep any panels centered when the door is closed. I have not seen a linkage kit that works well, so I still make them up using 1/16 in aircraft cable and steel pulley wheels designed for sliding doors. The wheels can be mounted on 1/4 inch bolts and placed as needed so the doors move at the same time.

Thanks, marthavila, I sometimes have to look at it through someone else's eyes to appreciate it. We bought our house 11 years ago and it was badly in need of renovation THEN. Well, time went by, we had 4 kids, dh went through 3 internet start-ups, and the renovations never got done. Lauraella, there were times when I begged dh to sell our house and move us into a 1980's tract house - anything that was functional , warm in the winter and cool in the summer (lack of AC has been one of our biggest issues; we are taking care of that with the renovation as well.) Now, we are finally doing the renovation, but living through it (we can't afford to rent) has proved to be the biggest challenge yet. The GC had to build us a temporary kitchen and a new bathroom in the basement because they tore off our kitchen and 1 1/2 baths during the gut. The only way to access the basement is to go out onto the framing and down a set of temporary stairs. For about a week, the only way down was to go out the front door, around the back of the house and down the outside cellar stairs. IT WILL ALL BE WORTH IT. That is my mantra.

thanks, thanks a lot :) I am now going to look on ebay. I have found my perfect purse, wallet and laptop/work bag (backpack). They are coach. I carried them for about 10 years in brown (mahogany). since I used them daily they were kind of beat up by then and I decided I wanted to start using black. I found the exact bags, all three, in black, gently used, on ebay. it took some searching but I love them still. I think I need a back up though and as time goes on I am sure it will be harder to find. I need to set up my searches on ebay again!