***"not necessary to disconnect both cables when working on electrical, just the negative/black?"*** That is correct.....So long as the negative/black cable is in fact, the GROUND cable for the vehicle electrical system. And in most machines built in the last 40 years or so, the negative/black is the ground conductor. But you must "cling to" every word of the description. "Negative", "Black", "Ground"! Each word must be considered as a separate and individual criterion when you are preparing to "put a tool" to the battery terminals. (this is a lesson, listen up) There are currently (no pun) no laws governing the colors of wires and cables used in AUTOMOTIVE applications. There are "generally accepted and recognized practices", but no REGULATIONS. Black is nearly universally used as the color (by OEMs) of the negative battery cable, Red for positive cable, but some OEMs might decide to use black cables for BOTH positive and negative conductors leading from the battery posts. And, additionally, you must always consider that the original RED positive cable.....might have been replaced with a BLACK cable. Furthermore, the OEM, BLACK negative cable, might have been replaced with a RED one (you see all kinds of things in "used equipment". The odds of finding a BLACK cable for the positive conductor are actually pretty good, while the odds for finding a RED cable for the negative conductor are slim (but I have found them more than once). Nonetheless, since it only requires that you "look at" the markings on the battery (positive+, negative-), that is what you MUST DO,.... each and every time you prepare to "put a tool" on a battery terminal. ALSO, when you identify the negative post/cable of the battery......trace the cable to where it connects next. If the negative cable connects to the vehicle frame, chassis, or engine block....it is the GROUND conductor. This configuration is what you will find on just about every machine/vehicle of recent manufacture. But, it makes sense to understand the relationship of "color vs. polarity vs. function" in a vehicle electrical system. IF the black cable is connected to the negative battery post at one end, and to the "vehicle ground" at the other end.........that is the only cable you need to remove from the battery in order to render the electrical system "inert" and safe to work on. Even that statement will have "limitations" if the vehicle has advanced electronics and engine/cab controls, but for MOST L&G tractors, it is the best, safest, practice. ................................................... Getting back to your Huskee. Before doing the next test, disconnect the GROUND cable from the battery. Leave all wires connected to the solenoid "posts",.... connected for the test. The black/blue pair will be removed but reconnected in this procedure. To further test whether the solenoid is defective (shorting inside the solenoid), if the first series of tests point in that direction, remove the mounting bolts of the solenoid (where solenoid mtg bracket fastens to chassis/frame. Reconnect the black/blue pair of wires to their same chassis/frame bolt and secure with nut. Use some kind of non-metallic, electrically insulating material (suitable piece of cardboard, carpet, even an old sneaker will do) to set the solenoid on so it can't touch a grounded surface (chassis). Once you have the solenoid resting on the non-metallic material, reconnect the ground cable to the battery negative post. Now, operate the ignition switch to the start position. If the fuse does not "blow" now, it indicates the solenoid has an internal short to ground (fuse DID NOT blow because no ground was provided for the "short" to use). Don't expect the solenoid to operate during the test. Access to the solenoid on my Huskee is somewhat "difficult at best", but I find I can get a better view of it by going in from the right side floorboard/step area (front end of center console and backside of engine). I have to lock the brake/clutch pedal down to get more room for my head. In taking the photos, I went through the battery access under seat AND from the other end I described above.

Ginny, the reason there are so many different ways to do things is that there are a lot that work. Having had a starter going for over a year now, I've found that it isn't that picky. For example, your original question of how much starter to add to make the sponge. It isn't critical. If the amount added is very small, then the sponge will take longer to double because it's starting out with very little yeast. If you add a lot and your starter is a wet one, then you may need to adjust the amount of flour you add to the bread later to get the dough right. I keep my starter in a glass jar in the fridge because it is a convenient size. I'm skeptical about the "no metal" thing. I wouldn't use a reactive metal, but I've stirred with stainless steel and haven't found it to do any harm. I sometimes let my dough rise in a stainless steel bowl. I was a bit worried about whether my starter survived chemo. I only managed to get it out once during the last 5 months when I went through several cycles of fed and double until it was doubling quickly again. Yesterday I finally got it out of the fridge again. It took a while to double (the house is pretty cool at this time of year too) but by this morning it had doubled. It is pretty hardy stuff.

That's a great idea. Freeze it in ice cube trays and then pop cubes into a freezer bag and take out as needed for sauces, drinks, desserts, etc. I do that with citrus fruit juices. Makes it easy to always have fresh juice when you need it in a recipe! How about Pineapple Popsicles? Found this online and it looks good. I may try it once this heat wave subsides and I can get out my canning equipment! Orange Pineapple Pear Butter Sauce Ingredients: 18 cups pureed pears 4 cups sugar 1 1/2 cups orange juice 1 1/2 cups pineapple juice 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 1/2 teaspoons cardamom 1 In large stockpot add all of the ingredients. Add cardamom 1/2 tsp at a time. 2 Whisk rapidly, until blended, then taste. 3 Cardamom is a strong spice and if you like the taste after 1/2 tsp, stop, the same with 1 tsp cardamom. Our personal taste is as stated in recipe. The taste intensifies as the sauce gets hot. 4 Heat clean sterilized jars in hot water in the oven at 200�. 5 Heat the seals in hot water. 6 Cook the sauce for 10 minutes until hot. 7 Stir. Do not burn. 8 Pour into jars. Wipe the rim with a hot clean cloth. Seal and band. 9 Place in a hot water bath in the canner. 10 Process in hot water bath for 15 minutes. 11 Lift out and place on a toweled counter. 12 Keep away from all drafts. Linda

OT.. :) Michelle I did not want to start a whole new thread, but I know you said you like white bread and even though I was in a hurry to watch the playoffs last night and should have let this bread rise a little more, this is one of the best white breads I have made. Buttermilk White Bread 2 packages yeast 1 Tbsp. sugar 1/2 cup warm water 4 cups unbleached flour 1 tsp. salt 3 Tbsp. melted butter 1 1/2 cups buttermilk Combine yeast, sugar and water and let proof for 5 minutes. Mix flour, salt, melted butter and buttermilk until smooth and then add yeast mixture. I used my KA dough hook and kneaded for 10 minutes. Turn out into large buttered bowl, roll dough around till well coated with butter. Cover bowl and set in warm place for 2 hours. Punch down the dough, turn out on floured surface and pat gently into rectangle. Fold in ends and then sides of bread, pinch seams together. Put into buttered loaf pan and let rise to double in bulk. Bake at 375 degrees for 30 minutes.