luckygal, I've also wanted to hang a chandy from a tree branch after seeing so many wonderful ones posted by our gang here. Then late last year a friend found 2 old black ones tossed in her alley trash and she snagged them, giving one to me. I put it on my Someday List. Well a few days ago I found it languishing in a back corner of storage shed and said that does it. Its now painted a bright white... but I'm stuck again. My GJ never has pretty cups and saucers like I want for it. Also, I think it was SusieRose, who did one with birdhouses painted white and the whole thing looks so neat that I wanted to do that. Well, unfinished birdhouses at Michaels are around $5 each and I need 8!! That ain't gonna happen. LOL. So I'm thinking 4 birdhouses and 4 teacups w saucers alternated is the look I want. Provided I find them! Why are the easy the projects so dang hard? LOL hugs, Karen

Here is some information I read about growing fruit trees from seeds. If you have a few extra seeds, I would love to try a few. I too live in Michigan. I can trade you a couple seeds from a delicious peach I bought at the farmer's market that was grown in Romeo. I don't know the name but it did grow some delicious peaches. LMK Here is some information about growing fruit trees from seeds that I read about in the June/July 2008 issue of Mother Earth News. The author is Lee Reich. I am not typing out the entire article but will copy the highlights... "Most fruit trees are best grown from grafted trees that cost $25 to $35 each. But with peaches, nectarines and apricots, you can cut your cost to zero by growing trees from seeds." "the almond-like seeds in pits from peaches, nectarines and apricots do a good job of carrying on the desirable traits of their parents." He recommends purchasing local fruit from a farmer's market and saving the seeds to sprout so you know you have a great tasting variety and that they will do well in your area. Choose from mid to late season varieties, avoid early season because the seeds may not fully develop. Cracking the pits: Allow to dry on the counter for a few days. Use a vise (if available) to crack open the pits to avoid crushing or breaking the seed. You could also try a nut cracker or other type of clamp. A hammer might work but you risk hurting your fingers and breaking the seed. After getting the seed, store in the refrigerator or other cool place you would normally store seeds. Stratification: This will take 2 to 3 months Usually best done in early spring There are a couple methods... Bury in pots and plant in the garden, you have a risk of varmits eating them but mother nature does all the work Plant them up and keep in the refrigerator. Stratification in the refrigerator: Start 4 months before you plan on planting outside. Soak the seeds in room temperature water overnight. Place in a jar of damp potting mix, close the lid and place in the refrigerator in an area that won't freeze. Monitor monthly for sprouts but keep in the refrigerator until a month before you plant outside. Pot up and harden off as you would any other plant in your area. Plant where you want them to grow and protect them. Grow on: Plant in pH neutral soil which drains well Keep well mulched Prune only dead, diseased or broken trees because this will delay fruit Watch the moisture of the soil Protect from insects Trees grown from seed will take from 3 to 5 years to bear fruit. Research the average size of the trees and plant accordingly since most trees naturally grow from 12 to 20 feet tall. In my case, this would be a great way to try to espalier a couple fruit trees for my tiny yard. If you would like the entire article, you can purchase back issues from the Mother Earth News website at www.motherearthnews.com...

There are a few other new pink lilacs now, one is growing in a yard the other way from me, doesn't look like Isabella. I think the James MacFarlane is pink, but they don't always necessarily bloom true. I bought some and planted them on the farm, can't remember the names now except for Sensation. They all died but the yellow one because I couldn't be there to get them off to a good start. The yellow one is pretty pale but pretty anyway. There is an oriental yellow one that is more showy in Klehm's catalog. That other link was a fascinating read. Nothing about propagation, but what a contribution she made. I think I stumbled onto a page of that site before. What a lady! Makes me regret I couldn't have had the foresight to get started in my better years. Wow, too bad it's an Australian site (can't order from them probably) and too bad I don't have more room for them. We have a beautiful public lilac garden a block away, but there are newer, more exotic ones out there now compared to what they put in about 30 years ago. Still, it is a lovely place. That is definitely peachy in the bud form, then it looks like it opens to a more pink shade. Beautiful thing. You are finding some neat sites on the web.

IMHO if you want to grow AV in the self watering pots - OYAMA pots are the best. (Ceramics are the most challenging). If you have these heavy double ceramics - you plant anything but low water requirement plants there. Cacti will not flourish there. The main thing - add extra perlite to the soil - to make it lighter - and adjust your water slowly - after repotting - keep watering from the top until the plant establishes - and then try filling the bottom pot with water starting with a small amount of water. Do not refill the pot until the soil in the pot is on a dry side. Most of the plants do not want to be waterlogged all the time, they need some dry time. Good Luck Irina