The drawback to using a foam roller is the air bubbles. You can try switching to a mohair roller short nap, but if you are not using a self levelling paint, then you will see some roller stipple in the finish. You are probably having trouble with brushmarks because any paint you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes is probably not high enough quality to actually lie down and flatten out, even with extender. Personally, I don't mind the slight stipple in the finish...it's better than brushmarks and it's certainly better than air bubbles.

You donÂt think the first arrangement looks like a cave? I would hang the picture on the wall, not lean it, but it looks rather cramped. I have a pair of tall thin buffet lamps I was planning to use with the picture, except that the shades would hide part of it, making it look even more cramped. If I kept it in the middle, I thought of pulling that case out more from the rest to set it off, maybe 4-5 inches. What do you think about this idea: I have a piece of 1 ¼ thick granite, left over from my kitchen, I could put on top: almost same width but 18 ½ inches deep (except IÂm not sure about the color, which is rusty red and black). The cases themselves are only 11 ½ deep. That would mean the granite would project out from the front 2 inches, and the back of the bookcase about 5 inches. Make it look like a sideboard? But that makes the short case definitely the focal point in the room: IÂm unsure about that. Otherwise, in the other layouts, there really is no focal point. I imagine the eye will wander over the row of cases and then zero in on one of the art objects. The downside of #1 is that the corner canÂt be used now for a floor lamp. I can take the tall skinny case shown at right angles in the corner and put it by the door in place of the short case. But unless itÂs a skinny lamp it wonÂt fit in the corner. The uplight floor lamp I was planning to put there, because it throws a lot of light upward, has a 20" wide shade. The last arrangement before I posted here was #3. I find I am already dumping things on the short bookcase next to the door! But itÂs the only place to put my notes and tools right now. If I took back the short one to do #1, I could get another short but narrow one (15") for that spot, so I could still put a lamp on it. I know it will all look different once I have the books, art objects, and pottery on them, but I donÂt want to set them all up then decide to move the cases around again! There is no ceiling light, and there is only one window. Daylight is enough if you want to sit RIGHT next to the window, but I doubt I will ever sit there and read in the daytime. I am dependent on having good lamps in the room. I hate to clutter it up, though, I looked at Ikea (where I bought the bookcases) for bookcase lights, but they were all halogen, which is too hot; and too modern in style. I put a floor lamp in the corner for picture 3, and it cast a lot of light (could not use that shot with it on because it washed out the exposure). I wish I were not being so indecisive about this.

If you want the look of a sprayed catalyzed white finish (think Ikea) then you may not be happy with a hand-painted result. You will almost certainly have imperfections in the surface. That said, with a little care it will look quite good. 500-600 grit sanding is vast overkill for either paint or stain on wood, you can't get that kind of resolution on wood, it has more structure than that. Those grits are only useful on metal or for polishing out very high gloss finishes. 220 or 320 max is plenty. If you are using a waterborne finish (and even if you're not) as a last step I'd go over the surface with a damp sponge, let it dry, and then lightly final sand with the same grit. Wetting the wood will also show up any sanding scratches or areas that need additional attention. Sanding compresses the wood fibers, when you dampen the wood it will "fuzz up" and then you can knock the fuzz off with a light sanding, producing a very high quality surface. I've used the Ben Moore enamel undercoater and impervo enamel to good effect, I'm a throwback so paint with a high quality bristle brush, but a roller would probably be easier, especially on large flat surfaces. If you like the look of the bare maple then poly produces a durable finish. Use oil-based for an easier application but some yellowing over time, water-based for a completely clear finish. Seems a shame to get a high quality real wood product then paint it, but that's just me.

Gmp3 and Lazygardens-- Thank you both very much for your help. GMP3--I'm going back and forth between wanting them to look built-in, though I think that's still my preference. I was trying to save some money by finishing them myself. I've never used a sprayer so I'd probably hire someone. Any thoughts on what that might cost (I have no idea, so even an educated guess might help). Lazygardens--If I went with the natural maple (and it is very pretty, so it wouldn't break my heart to do this), do you have any recommendations for a topcoat (oil v latex/acrylic, method of application, even a brand you like) and should I apply a sealer/primer first? I know that Minwax makes aerosol cans of its polyurethene--any opinions about those? Many thanks!