Still something to learn. My pumpkins have vine borers. Most of the Japanese Kabocha are lost since I caught them late. But the regular orange pumpkins are doing fine since they sent out strong stems. The 2nd batch Kabocha is doing fine. The peppers still are very green, but lost leaves quickly (yellow with black spots). Not sure if fungus or diseases. Some small flies, but I do not think that is is the problem. The tomatos are producing, but the lower leaves turn yellow and dropped. Now 2/5 of the lower leaves fell. The plants are about 5' tall. Lower yield than last year's. The water melons were doing great. Then stopped growing. I did not see any bugs. Then the leaves turned yellow with black edges. Then the whole vines just died. The melons are about sugar baby size or smaller. The blueberries did very well. Better yield than last year's. I think the wet weather somehow helps. Anyhow, still something to learn for next season.

Elisa, most vegetables benefit. One of my winter projects is to hugelkultur all my trellises (for beans and squash). Dig under the trellis, bury wood, cover. Anyway, all cucurbita, all solanaceae, all allium, and most pulses are myc. Beta (spinach, chard, beet) and brassica are not, though I am not sure about all brassicas (example some of the tropical brassica like sisymbrium). I am unsure about apiaceae (carrot, fennel, celery, parsnip, parsley) but I think they are, as are ciichorium (radicchio, catalonia, endive). Lettuce I think yes, asparagus unsure, cardoon/artichoke yes, yacon yes. Obviously all berries are myc. from strawberry to any shrub or tree, even desert shrubs like hippophae or jujube. all fruit trees too. Beta and brassica are originally seashore plants. they did not evolve in the presence of fungi and did not learn to collaborate. They typically weaken the fungi in a bed. I have always had 1-2 inches branches buried to keep the fungi up, the difference this year I am burying the 5 or 10 inches pieces, even a few 16 inches rounds.

Is this prefinished or site finished. The Woodshop of Texas takes old beams of different timber types and resaws in to flooring but it has to be site finished. Link below Here is a link that might be useful: Woodshop of texas

if you invest in cedar, get the post-on-pipe design, which will cost more but will majorly extend its life. design: not sure what specific design you're going for, but I'd recommend paying extra for bottom trim. I thought my fence would look fine w/o it and I regret that so hard. it looks kind of ragged and unfinished. I'm in the process of getting that fixed but I'm kicking myself so hard for not noticing while they were still here. due to the geography of our yard, our fence looked perfect from the inside, so that's why I didn't notice the problem right away. so, final advice: inspect all sides of the job every day while it's being built and don't be afraid to speak up if anything looks wrong!