Here's an article you might find interesting. It tells you about how waterfall came into popularity, how it was made, what not to use to clean it. Some interesting stories about it. (Such as why so many pieces made and that we still see today are bedroom suites. Depression era couples often started out living with parents, so had nothing much to call their own except their bedroom furniture - if they could afford that.) Click on What is Waterfall, Anyway? I'd be very leery of Krud Kutter on wood, but especially delicate, aged veneers. That's a degreaser meant for everything from aluminum siding to garage floors. There are lots of recipes out there for cleaning antique wood. I have a routine I like. Start with Formby's Deep Cleansing Build-Up Remover. Just be careful with any loose veneer, some of it could be about paper thin and not take a lot of pressure. I like Restore-A-Finish for pieces that need spruced up but not a full strip and restore. It's worked wonders on solid wood. If using on veneers, avoid the steel wool it says you can use. Too harsh on veneer imho. When you've got it nice and clean, consider a good paste wax like Trewax or I like the liquid Howard's Beeswax Feed N Wax (Sears Hardware, Ace). If someone in a store suggests Bowling Alley wax, I'd suggest avoiding it. It was recommended to me by a retailer who said a couple of his 'old-timer' antique dealing customers use it. That stuff was about impossible to buff out and was kind of gummy feeling to me. My SIL gave me a beautiful deco era waterfall accent table, from DHs grandparents. She just didn't want it anymore. I just did a light RAF wipe rather than a lot of elbow grease with super fine steel wool. Didn't want to risk harming the veneers. Anyway, I did my Formby's, RAF, Howard's Beeswax routine and sent her a photo with a thank you. She was amazed at the difference and wanted to know what I refinished it with. ;) This is a different piece, before and after. An ebay purchase, a vintage solid cherry hutch in pristine condition structurally but had smoke film on it and other kinds of grime, the finish was dull and needed a really good cleaning. seller's photo after I did my Formby's>RAF>Feed n Wax routine.

The finish on an acrylic or fiberglass tub is not as durable as a porcelain/enamel finish on cast iron, period. The aesthetics of an acrylic or fiberglass tub is typically not as detailed as on an old cast iron. A couple things. First, make sure you understand the difference between a steel tub and a cast iron tub - they are not the same. With stamped steel, you get what you pay for, and even expensive ones still don't equal the quality of a cast iron. With a new cast iron, your cost will meet or substantially exceed the cost of refinishing an old one. Refinishing can be near-to-factory when performed on site. However, to do that the tub should be fully exposed, meaning all walls and fixtures removed to completely expose it. But if you go to that length, then the better way is to deliver the tub to the refinisher's shop, and the finish will equal a factory finish. There they will have better opportunity for prep, which is the key to refinishing.

Do not use linseed oil. With the existence of newer oil finishes there's no reason to use it. Instead, look into WOCA, Bona Craft Oil, Rubio or OSMO. Some have low VOCs while others have zero. I would go with the WOCA, which can have multiple coats applied and they have a maintenance paste which can be used with a buffer to provide a nice sheen. If you maintain it properly, it could potentially be the last time the floor ever has to be sanded.

Old windows have a glazing compound made from linseed that holds the panes into the frame. Over decades, this dries out and chips or flakes off. You want to replace it before you paint. The stuff isn't that expensive and This Old House has videos telling you how to apply it.