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Home Decorating

Crown Molding in Master Bath?

wwwonderwhiskers

12 years ago

Does this MBath need crown molding?

House standards say something like 'crown molding throughout entire first floor'. Since this is a FFMaster, the only place which does not currently have the 3-level crown is the food pantry.

We thought MBath, water closet, and clothes closet would (not sure about the clothes closet right this minute, but that doesn't matter.)

Pics below of a corridor MBath:

Best pic I have overall shows (left 7:00 position moving clockwise) door-n-drywall en-suite Linen, double-vanity with lowered center sitting area, door to water closet, far door to MCloset, then shower, then soaking tub.

This pic the best overall before grout 2 days ago:

This pic adjacent:

This pic yesterday AFTER grout, and a delightful picture of the tile color:

Just another pic this wall showing double-vanity light over soaking tub (towel bar will hang below):

Crown molding? Your thoughts? Am asking because the Ever Diligent Sub said something about not doing it because it was a wet area, and the steam / humidity might be an issue.

(The diagonal lay tile ROCKS, btw, thanks tons to the tile team!! If you're in NoVA let me know if you need a recommendation......... )

TIA !

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Comments (2)

LuAnn_in_PA
12 years ago
"Does this MBath need crown molding? "
I don't think so, but if that's what YOU want, it's your house.

"House standards say something like 'crown molding throughout entire first floor'."
Never heard of that.
Crown actually looks out of place in many areas, or even in some styles of homes.
forhgtv
12 years ago
I don't have an opinion about whether you should add crown, but I can tell you that I have crown molding in my bath with no problems. However, my shower is designed a bit differently than yours with the tile going all the way up to a shallow light soffit. My crown is on the outside of the soffit which means it is on the exterior of the shower.
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We are staying for a while. I wanted the big, old, double wide jacuzzi gone and put in the plain soaking tub for me. That is what drove the remodel. Yes, the archway will be tiled, didn't want any water problems since we will try to not have a door so I want the tile wrapped around the edge. Hopefully the tile will be finished today and the grout in next week! There will not be tile to the right of the shower arch. Will check on the color of paint. I will post pictures after we are finished...thanks for asking.
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With that photo, I'd say without a doubt if you're going to run crown in the bath run it over the shower as well. I recommend you not use MDF crown. If you go with wood, I recommend you not use finger-jointed due to the open nature of the shower. Depending on the quality of the finger jointed wood, repeated moisture swings can cause the joints to break, resulting in lines telegraphing through the paint at every glue line, which can be every 8" to 18". For solid wood crown, back prime the wood (meaning prime the back of the crown as well as the front) before installing it, I recommend an oil primer. If going with a synthetic (foam) molding, that will be most stable moisture-wise. It'll also be the least worry in regards to mold/mildew. The only limitation is that it comes in 8' lengths, so if you have a run longer than 8' you'll have a scarf joint somewhere along the run of molding. Not a worry though. Easy to do. Mongo
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Wow, I would be pleasantly surprised to see that, not disappointed. I think that shows an excellent builder who has the wherewithal to give that type of attention to a small room. I have crown in two of my bathrooms (master bath not yet) and the smallest being 5x8 and we deliberately added it years after it was built. I think after it's all done you will see how moulding adds to the finished look of any room.
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I would tend to do the same as S_M suggests. You can lay out the cut line with a "jigger" tool. This is harder to explain than do. You simply make a wedge-shaped piece of wood with a couple of saw-tooth cut-outs on one edge. Lay up a piece of paper and then put the point of the wedge in the critical and transition points and trace around the whole thing. Take down the paper and you can create the exact profile on the back of your molding or yet another pattern piece. I would use a coping saw, or if the piece is small enough, a band saw to trim the profile. I would tend to use a pattern maker's rasp instead of a chisel, but I could live with either. Back cutting is important. Do this profile before you cut the other end to length (assuming it's a butt or miter at the other end). You always should do the hardest part first before cutting to length. Best case scenario: you can just butt the other end into the wall and cope the adjoining piece to make an inside miter.
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