With stone, there should be someone coming out to make a template. This someone should be either part of the instal team, or affiliated with them somehow.
To just get some initial pricing though, you can send out a rough sketch with pretty good measurements that you can do yourself. Be sure to note any overhangs (if there's to be any bar seating) and where your sink is. I don't deal with stone much up here in rural Maine, mostly cabinets and laminate countertops, but that's my understanding of what needs to happen to get the job done.

Where are you located?

Thanks for the prompt response. I live in Eastern Washington State. We still haven't decided on the best countertop material for us. Our favorite is 180 FX Formica, but all our kids feel that granite is the only way to go based on popularity, not the properties of granite.

Start with measuring your square footage. That's enough to get started. If you have any particular concerns (e.g., like a long run), you need to mention that also to whoever you talk to. Drawings always help, but not absolutely necessary. If you are getting granite, some yards do not want to talk to you unless you have a fabricator, some yards sell granite and do fabrication, and other yards will gladly show you granite and recommend a fabricator. Personally, I would like to narrow down my choices before finding a fabricator, but I did eventually buy my granite thru a yard recommended by my fabricator.

Nerdyshopper,

All I can say is not to even look at granite unless you really want it! Lol. If you like the formica then dear god don't change your mind!!! I don't know if I think the FX formica is worth the upcharge or not but what I do know is that if you'll be happy with it there's nothing on the market that will touch it for cost or variety.

Tell you kids if they want granite they will need to pay the upcharge!

That said, you need the
1) actual square footage of the ctops to be installed at reqular counter depth (on top of 24" cabs in other words)
1A) the number of square feet that needs to be nonstandard depth (such as on a wide island)
2) the number of sink holes or cooktop cutouts if you'd have it done
3) how many "ends" of the counters there are (these require an extra piece that gets stuck on to finish the ends)
4)Another good number is the length of the finished edge you'll need. (In other words, the front edge of the ctops. That way if you want a certain kind of edge you can work out the price).

Thanks all, I guess I'll procede to get the dimensions measured first and go shopping with the info on cutouts edges etc.

Here's my .02 cents worth:

1. Make a drawing of your kitchen showing the countertops as close as
possible to reality as you can

2. Show the dimensions of all of the aspects of the countertops (in inches)
with each aspect of all of the countertops

3. When showing your dimensions - round UP the dimensions to the nearest
inch. Don't worry about fractions (make a note on the drawing that your dimensions
have been rounded up to the nearest inch, and the drawing is for estimate
purposes ONLY)

4. SHOW on the drawing where the sink opening will be. List if it's going to be
a "drop in/self rimming" style or "undermount". List the sink manufacturer
and model if you know what it is - if not - just list the style, and show TBD
(to be determined)

5. SHOW on the drawing where your cook top or slide in range will go. Again,
list the manufacturer and model if you know what it is. Whether it's a gas
or electric will not matter to a countertop guy, but you WILL need to have any
cooktops ON THE JOB SITE on the day of installation.

6. SHOW where the dishwasher will go on the drawing. Usually it's next to the
sink on one side or the other, or duals.

7. Mark an "X" on each edge that will get a finished edge - like a bull nose, or an Ogee, etc.

8. Draw a small box on each edge that will go up against a free standing appliance
like a range, Fridge, etc. This will show that the edge needs to be polished
but NOT profiled to match the finished edges like the bullnose, Ogee, etc.

9. Draw a dotted line that shows an overhang dimension - this is really important
for your fabricator to know right away. An overhang will mean that you can
slide chairs or stools under it, and you can sit at the area and use it like a
breakfast bar or regular bar. Most overhangs are anywhere from 12" to 15" deep.

Here is an example of what will help you in getting your project bid correctly
by any guy you want to get a price from:

{{!gwi}}

I have a Mac, and did this in Paintbrush - it took me about 10 minutes to do -
you can e-mail or fax this drawing to the companies that you want a bid from,
and they will respond way better to this, than having someone get in their car
and drive to your home.

Try this method - it will work for you.......

hth

kevin

Whoops.... My Bad - I forgot a few things:

Mark where the Dishwasher goes with a "D/W" symbol

show bowed edges and overall dimensions as well as the dimensions
of finished edges as shown here:

{{!gwi}}

Regardless of the product that you want to use for your new countertops -
when you supply prospective contractors with the same info, you will have a
WAY BETTER chance of getting bids that are "apples to apples"......

IF you already know what kind of product you want to work with - ie - Corian, Formica, Granite, Silestone, etc... you can save a lot of time and hassle
on everyone's part - and you'll get responses faster since when somebody
sends me this kind of "spec" - I know right away that they have their act together -
rather than scattered!!! HA - LOL!!!

Seriously - List the product type and thickness on the drawing too - along
with where you saw it at: ie - Granite, St Cecilia, 2CM, Dal Tile Houston...etc

It helps me (as a pro) get more bids out with out having to waste time doing field
measures on jobs that I may not ever get when my prospective customers can
send me a spec like this via fax or e-mail......... It's not that hard in 2010 -
don't forget - this AIN'T the 90's anymore

again....

hth

kevin

Wow, azstoneconsulting, what great detail on what to do. Thank you so much. I will use your plan exactly as you show it (hope it's not copywrited, hah). Now if I only had a drawing program that would take dimensions and make a drawings, that would really simplify matters. I once tried to download a program to draw my city lot and the buildings, fences, gates etc. to send to city hall to get a building permit, but had no success finding one. Wound up drawing by hand and giving up the idea after looking at my plans.

Thanks for your kind words.....

Heck... you can just make a sketch by hand, and as long as it has all of the
pertinent info that I was mentioning - you can scan that drawing and e-mail
it to the companies that you'd want to have give you a bid on..... or fax it to them...

Remember that this is NOT rocket science - all you have to remember is
that communicating what you want is paramount!

hth

kevin