There is a point where you get a bit of overkill. Two fixtures are better than one. Are three, four or five going to provide any real difference in plant performance? I tend to doubt it especially considering the fact that you need to raise the lights as the plants grow and here are other means like plant spacing or using reflective surfaces to get light through an increasingly dense plant canopy. When you are building this stand, John, you would be better advised to adjust the stand dimentions so that it will meet your future needs. Most of the double bulb fixtures that people use are 4 foot long. Therefore, I'd make the length of the stand slightly longer so that the fixtures arent pinched within the framework as you will need to raise or lower them. iprefer a dowel rod above each fixture with finishing nails inserted in the ends. Then with 2 sets of chain draped over each end of the structure you can simply slip the nail out of one chain link and into another to adjust height. But your 30" width is a bit confusing. Standard flats are 11" x 22". Newly germinated plants (first two weeks) need to have the lights just above the leaf canopy and so placing two trays/shelf parallel with the light tubes makes good sense. Once plants are forming a second set of leaves you should transplant them into larger cell packs unless you have already wasted space under lights by starting seeds in larger cells. My point is that at this next growth stage you can get reasonably good light coverage by placing 5 trays/shelf perpendicular to the light tubes. For this tray positioning a 23" wide shelf will work fine. You can staple a 3/8" cord around the shelf perimeter and just cut open a larger garbage bag as a liner. The cord will keep water contained nd the plastic will hold small amounts of water until it evaporates. I would not recommend watering plants on the shelves. You'll need to get them out from beneath the lights to do a good job and it can get a bit messy. I like to use a combination of watering methods: Bottom watering by wicking action, sprinkling can and mister for fragile plants. All of these watering methods are best done in different location. Once trays are allowed to drain of excess water set them centrally on an opened section of your favorite newspaper and by extending your arms under the tray and usung your hands to fold up the opposite newspaper corners around the tray corners you can transport trys accross your house without drips as long as you gently tip the tray away from you toward the folded corners. I can provide you with some guidelines for different 3 tier stands. I have two wooden frame stands, one simply cheap PVC frame stand and a ceiling supported 33 flat setup that get me through the "Free heat" phase of plant starting. After that the trade off of supplemental heat for free light begins to get stressing.

debi, I'm sorry my post was unclear: I didn't mean that *my* furniture style is elegant (it isn't; my style is extremely spare - elegance doesn't get a chance to enter the picture!); I meant that the furniture you've included above is elegant - not stuffy but still refined. That said, the walls may not be brown but the yellow you describe is what I'm factoring into the monotonicity above. All the browns you have up there are the yellowish brown - all of them. If you had some rich mocha browns or some rich red browns, that would keep the foundation colours in your room contained into one part of the spectrum if you like that, but still have some life. As such, the elements you have aggregated thus far are dominated with the yellow-browns which I'll submit are a bit jaundiced. If you look at the furniture picture you've attached there - the much lighter (cream?) rug and the similar cream seating makes that photograph look much lighter, happier and alive than when you incorporate that into your room with the carpet and floors you currently have. Neither of which are objectionable mind you; but I really think that with the lot of them together in that room, it just doesn't look entirely thrilling. I'm not objecting to the furniture, btw; I'm saying that you should get a carpet in a different color. Just my $0.02. Sorry if I offended or if the comments aren't what you'd prefer to hear. And BTW, if that's the case, you have your answer! What you put in to your house must please you and if you object to someone's assessment then you know that you've found something you like ;-)

Be sure to block for grab bars at the toilet and at the tub. The pony wall at the tub, next to the vanity, could be widened to incorporate a pull out for more storage. Lighting, I have one bathroom with 2 sconces at 100 watts each and have wonderful lighting, that room is 6.5x9.5 feet. My other bathroom has 2 sconces with 120 watts each and that lighting is marginal. Check the lighting forum for lumin recommendations. Be sure to have an exhaust fan and enough gap under the doors to allow make up air to enter the room for efficient fan function. I think that is why some people complain about poorly functioning fans even though they are sized correctly, because the room is too tight. Put electric outlet beside the toilet, low, so you can have an advanced toilet seat option. Read my post to Mermanmike that I wrote this morning: Help Laying Out a Master Bathroom...

OutsidePlaying - thank you!!! I think you're absolutely right - I have dragged in a few random chairs from around the house and the lower backs are the key - I was trying to create cozy with the bigger chairs (they ARE very comfy) however the lower chairs in place now make all the difference - I will make sure whatever chairs I end up with will keep this in mind (I'm also debating benches on each side and lower (!) comfy captain-style chairs on the ends)