Combining Lead with Copper Foil
deannad
12 years ago
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Calamity_J
12 years agotoomuchglass
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Anyone up on the toxicity issues of copper on earthworms?
Comments (15)Thanks for the responses. Let me clarify a bit on why I have had to use copper. I am growing vinafera grapes. The number of people successfully growing vinafera grapes organically in the entire mid-atlantic region is, to my current knowledge, one -- myself. (Well I am sure there are a few more but it must be very uncommon). There are a few people growing vinafera organically in NY and other somewhat less disease-ridden places. Anyway even if my soil were the best in the world there is no way to grow vinafera here without a significant spray regimen. My current experiment is to spray copper plus Surround plus Nufilm on the undersides of the leaves; the Surround seems to physically interfere with the downy in some way which tends to start on the bottoms of the leaves, and since it is on the underside and plastered on with nufim, the spray stays there a long time since the rain can't get to it. I am hoping that I can double or more the length of time that a spray lasts with this technique. Maybe I can even cut back on the copper strength. I tried milk, bicarb, sulphur, and others with no luck at all. They work fine on powdery but downy gets into the leaf tissue itself and these sprays just don't work. I am also experimenting with different varieties, I have several dozen. I have found a couple vinafera that seem to have much better disease resistance. My favorite so far is an obscure Portuguese variety called Tinta Pinheira which is known in Portugal for its resistance to diseases. I was out looking last night and it is completely clean of diseases now. I also have many hybrids, but none of the red hybrids make a good wine as far as I am concerned. Well they make a fine wine but its just not the kind of wine I like to drink. The white hybrids on the other hand make some very good wines and all my white wine grapes are hybrids. This whole effort is still in the experimental phases, I have already gotten rid of a half a dozen varieties that seemed to be too disease-prone and I will probably be getting rid of several more. Anyway with regard to copper it sounds like most people here are not using it at all - ? Scott...See MoreCopper foil versus slugs
Comments (18)Copper ? not a practical way to combat slugs.MO. If you have just a few plants, you might try it but for a garden over 100 sqr-ft , it is not practical. Number one, and best combat is to hunt them, at night , in the mornings, ... and destroy them. At the same time use slugo type stuff. I use BUG GRTA. I am also experimenting with some home recepie. Coffee grounds from your coffee machine (or starbucks..) seems to be effective too. I add some fine sand to it and I also grind egg shells in coffee mill and mix with it. SAND & EGGSHELL have roughness that slugs will get wounded when crawling on them, unlike the chemicals that do it chemically wounding their belly. Yesterday, with overcast skies and some rain, was a perfect day to hunt slugs. They come out during days like that and it is much easy to spot them. I DID that and, even though there are not that many of them in all of my veggies and flower gardens(after combating them last year and this year) yet I found some of them, mostly in non-critical areas. I did that because I do not want them exist, spread, lay eggs, etc. I found them mostly under the dead daffodils tops, in the cracks.. So it can also help if you know where they hide . then you get them. To summarize, fighting slugs in a wet , damp, rainy climate is an ongoing battle. But once you minimize their numbers, it get easier. The serious danger is to the small seedlings, early in the season....See MoreOne more thing regarding copper
Comments (3)Oooooooooooh, I'm so scared. However, if I start smoking cigarettes, WHO CARES about Alzheimers? http://www.forces.org/evidence/carol/carol16.htm...See MoreGalvanized, underground, connected to PVC&Copper
Comments (5)I have a question about how some work is proceeding. Currently, copper water pipe, above ground, 3/4", feeds house, in mild climate, San Francisco Bay Area. Here's the plan. Cut the copper pipe right after the shutoff valve, solder in a T, one side feeds the house, other side feeds a galvanized steel threaded pipe that has multiple elbows and straight couplings, channeling the water underground for a hose and PVC sprinkler connection at the far end, about 30' away. PVC connection then feeds into 3-zone underground sprinkler system. I would like the water at the end of the galvanized steel 30' pipe that will feed the hose to be drinking water quality. 1. How should the coupling of the copper and steel be done near the shutoff valve? 2. Is galvanized steel threaded pipe+elbows+couplings underground (under a paver driveway and flagstone patio) in a mild climate a problem? Threads are wrapped in teflon tape. 3. What kind of a shutoff valve should be used at water source to galvanized steel pipe, in order that the water can be drinking quality at the other end, where the hose and PVC sprinkler connections are? What kind of fittings should be used to connect the threaded pipes? 4. Is lead solder (even low levels of lead) required to connect the copper to galvanized steel, or is there another method that is feasible? In general I want to ensure the water quality entering the house is not compromised, that the piping etc. will last a long time, and that the water quality at the far end will be drinking water quality (assuming the city is providing clean water, of course!). Thanks Very Much for any and all opinions and advice! Dan 4. This entire design is a disaster in the making. First off, the code requires that the supply pipe must be buried 12", or 6" below average frost depth, whichever is deeper. A " pipe is absolute code minimum for a single family residential dwelling and is normally sufficient for a kitchen, laundry and up to two bathrooms however, the size of the supply line must be sized proportional to the calculated load of the structure and the distance from the municipal main to the furthest fixture. There is no way that a ¾" line would be sufficient for the structure and an irrigation system. You would be required to have a "Main shutoff valve" which must be a full-bore type valve (gate valve or ball valve). The line feeding the exterior piping would then be required to have a backflow preventer (check-valve) and a separate shutoff valve. Solder will not stick on galvanized iron pipe. All connections to iron pipe MUST BE made by means of NPT (National Pipe Taper) threaded fittings, however galvanized iron pipe is a very poor choice of material for direct burial anyway. The pipe passing under the driveway and the patio should be sleeved. To make a sleeve you first install a pipe at least 2 nominal pipe sizes larger then pass the desired pipe through the sleeve pipe. All hose bibs must be anti-siphon type. At the point where the pipe first feeds the irrigation system you must install a vertical riser to an elevation at least 6" higher than the elevation of the highest irrigation sprinkler nozzle and install a shutoff valve and an approved vacuum breaker. The pipe is then dropped back down and run to the irrigation system. All solder joints must be made with certified "Lead Free" solder. The first step of this project should be to make a list of all the fixtures in the house and the distance from the municipal main source to the furthest fixture to calculate the load for the structure. From this you could determine the required line size for the house. You must the compute the length of the lines and the Gal/min rate of each irrigation sprinkler head and the hose bibs to determine the load for the outdoor use. Once you know the combined load you can determine the required size of the main supply line. Check your local code carefully because they may have additional requirements for this project....See MoreCalamity_J
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