Adding Cold Water Tap to existing quartz counters
tammyw
9 years ago
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weissman
9 years agoUser
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Miele dishwasher water source - hot or cold?
Comments (34)I use a hot/cold mixing valve on my Miele Optima to feed the unit temperate water that is probably around the crystal cycle preference temperature value (a cycle I never run because washing by hand with an RO water rinse leaves wine and beer glasses crystal clear and totally free of rinse aid residue). I expect my Miele heats the water it gets a bit for each regular turbo pot/pan whatever cycle. The claim that feeding the unit cold water is more energy efficient (green) than feeding it hot water can only be true if the energy one uses to heat house water is more expensive per delivered BTU (has to include furnace or gas heater efficiency) than the electricity the unit would use to heat the water instead. Electricity is the more expensive approach in NH, and I suspect that is true many places in the USA. If this were also true in Germany, then the high-end solution would be to plumb the unit for both hot and cold feeds (like even the most low-end clothes washing machine manages to do) and let the dishwasher control the temperature for the cycle without any heating at all. I understand the confusion about why hot water is less "gentle" on crystal. If truly crystal (fused quartz), I would expect the glassware to be highly resistant to detergent effects. (I doubt that there is much fused quartz glassware available.) If borosilicate glass (like original Pyrex), or normal lime glass, then hot detergents might be fairly accused of leaching thereby causing fogging of the glass surface. My previous American style hot washing dishwasher could fog standard glassware after enough washings using then Cascade. kas...See MoreMoving Water Heater and Adding a Second
Comments (5)German - By definition - since you only have ONE Well - any two WH installed - are either in Series or Parallel. Sounds like you are planning on installing in Parallel. Your Electric Bill for WH's will essentially double. However - WH's built today - are EXTREMELY efficient. Moving a WH out of a Heated space - and into an UNHEATED space - does increase base energy loss. Since the minimal heat loss - in a heated space - contributes positively to your home environment. Crawlspace - less access. All WH's eventually leak - and one far away (40') much more difficult to work on; and see what condition it is in... However - very doable. TWO - do of course also require TWO totally separate circuits. They draw a LOT of current - when ON. So you would have to run from your box - totally NEW wire for the second unit. Adding a junction box from the existing wire; for the second unit - WILL result in your circuit breaker constantly tripping from overload. (And if you 'cheated' and just increased the capacity of the breaker - WOULD result in a very overloaded supply wire; and a very unsafe situation...) TWO heaters - DO require TWO totally separate supply circuits. You are discussing putting into a crawl space - for more room. A crawl space is unheated. You desire TWO WH's because the smaller unit is decreasing your available supply. Have you considered building a small Insulated Box - mounted on the Outside of your house? Easy to insulate. Normal Height level. Emergency drain outside. Not hard to pour a small concrete pad. Insulate, and add appropriate siding. Put in a 80 gal into this INSULATED box. Heater will keep it warm. One heater; less electricity; full capacity. The idea of water conservation is a good one. If you add two; or change location - CPVC pipe is very self insulating; and rated for both hot and cold. Then you can insulate as well... But it has less inherent thermal transfer - since it is not metal. http://www.lubrizol.com/BuildingSolutions/FlowGuardGold.html For instant Hot Water at virtually any outlet - while your doing this minimal work - add the following: https://www.wattspremier.com/products.php?product=Instant-Hot-Water-Recirculating-System Or Laing makes some similar products: http://lainginc.itt.com/LG-pump-Autocirc.asp With either one of these - if you run any new plumbing - also run a second dedicated RETURN line. (back to your WH). This will eliminate the 'tepid' warm water - which initially comes out of the Cold faucet - when your return line utilizes the Cold supply... Either way - these systems do save a lot of wasted water; and truly provide almost instant hot water at virtually any tap. D....See MoreDo I need a water softener for both hot and cold?
Comments (5)Do you know your water's present hardness level? Put it on the main line and do both. Your laundry, dishes, and hair will love you for it. Too soft? There's only "soft" -- which is zero grains -- and varying degrees of hardness above that. For example, my supply is 7-8 grains. When it goes though the softener, it comes out zero grains -- which is what "soft" water is. There are many components of water's taste. However, I've never known anyone who liked the taste of softened water. I don't. It's not terrible or anything, just blah. Where I live, tap water tastes terrible. Anybody with any money either has RO under the sink or buys bottled water for cooking/mixing/drinking. RO removes pretty much everything. It's not far removed from distilled, really, but tastes much different from water from softener only. Bottled water is usually RO'd local water with trace minerals added back. It's taste is superior, IMHO, but its relatively expensive. If your tap water tastes OK to you, I suspect it would be a very simple matter to run a seperate tap with un-softened water to the sink and frig for drinking water. Cheaper than RO, surely, and no maintenance....See MoreHot water backflowing into cold supply
Comments (18)I doubt very seriously if the failure of the humidifier supply tube is a result of heat. First of all, let us consider the temperature of your incoming cold water supply. The mean average of the earths crust is 55degF (geothermal temperature of the crust). Soil is a rather poor insulator so the surface soil then cools proportional to the ambient air temperature. While the crust is 55degF the actual surface of the soil will freeze for a short depth which we define as the "frost depth". While the frost depth is the deepest point at which freezing commonly occurs it must be understood that from that depth the temperatures increase gradually from freezing temp(32degF) to the natural geothermal temp(55degF). Typically geothermal temp occurs at approximately twice the frost depth. In order to protect our water lines from freezing the codes require that we bury the line 6" below the frost line thus when the dirt is frozen to the frost depth the average temperate at the water line may be only slightly above freezing (34degF+). Fresh water reaches a maximum density of 231cu.in per gallon at 39degF. There is a very coplex formula to determine the rate of linear expansion but for the sake of illustration let us use the maximum here. When water is expanded from its maximum density of 39degF to the boiling point it expands by approximately 40:1 thus we could say the physical volume of a 40gal. water heater expands by one gallon. To put this in perspective consider that a 1/2" pipe has a volume of one gallon for each 98 linear feet. We must now keep in mind that water is not compressible therefore as the volume expands it must go somewhere. Normally the increase in volume is compensated by physically pushing some of the water back to the municipal main or to your well pump pressure tank however if we install a check valve in the line there is no place for the additional volume to go. In this case the excess volume would by necessity be relieved by discharging through the water heater Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve (T&P valve) BUT let us consider another potential problem here. Imagine for the moment that your T&P discharge line discharges out through the wall of your house. The discharge end of the line is then exposed to atmospheric temperature and in a worst case scenario the outside end of that line could freeze shut. At this point there would be no place for the additional volume to be released and it could result in blowing out fittings or valves or rupturing a pipe or the water heater vessel. Now keep in mind that the T&P valve is a spring loaded valve that is set to release when the pressure reaches 150psi and most likely the plastic line to your humidifier is failing slightly before the internal pressure is sufficient to release the T&P valve. On the other hand, if you did not have that plastic line there is a very strong likelyhood that the increased volume could be relieved by blowing out a compression fitting at a fixture angle stop, a pipe joint might fail or premature failure of Bibb Washers in your faucetts. The proper solution is to install an expansion tank on the water heater side of the check valve to absorb the increased volume. Installing an expansion tank is quite simple. You simply install a Tee on the cold water line with a male thread adapter on the Tee stub out, then screw the expansion tank onto the thread adapter....See Moretammyw
9 years agoweissman
9 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
9 years agoUser
9 years agotammyw
9 years agosherri1058
9 years agotammyw
9 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
9 years agosherri1058
9 years agotammyw
9 years agoweedmeister
9 years agotammyw
9 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
9 years ago
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