Take my word for it oil is the best glue remover. On wood I'd use a product like lemon oil or old english oil. On glass I use cooking oil. Saturate a soft cloth with the oil and rub over the glue. The more oil you can get on it the easier it is to penetrate the glue rub with the cloth and keep adding more oil. The oil will disolve the glue as long as nothing else was used first

Jenna, Mold spores are everywhere. When they find a moist location, they can bloom. So the key is ventilation to remove humid air and a properly sloped pan on the floor to prevent the floor from retaining moisture. Soap, shampoo, and conditioners can also have an effect, in terms of residue left on the walls or floor. After a consumers report article years ago we switched to Zest soap, and sure enough, it rinses much cleaner than the soaps we had previously used. Mt wife has a collection of lotions and potions (shampoos and conditioners), some rinse less well than others. If you have hard water, the minerals could leave residue on the tile. One thing to consider is having a hand held shower that you can take off the wall and use that to rinse down the walls after you shower. It only takes a few seconds. If you need additional help, some use a squeegee and give the walls and floor a quick once-over, that can prevent mineral deposits being left on the wall from hard water. In general, taking in all the negatives, if you have a tough situation, your hubby is right in that less grout can mean less maintenance issues. But in a well-designed, well ventilated, and well-built shower, you should have no problems to begin with. Mongo

Hey folks, I've been trying for a long time to find somthing that will get completely rid of "devil's spit" AKA "sticky4ever" AKA "modern, intentionally undefeatable label glue". I hated having a nice item with the label removed, but not being able to pick it up without having to pry it loos from my hand in order to set it back down. I'd tried several of the items/methods listed above and several not listed, and none of the ones I'd tried worked. Even steel wool and soap leave a thin glue residue behind. I was going to try Goo Gone, lighter fluid, WD-40, Ets, then somewone mentioned Pledge furnature polish. I didn't have any of the others but thought there might be some Pledge. No luck, but way in the back of a shelf loaded with odds and ends I found a bottle of, Old English Red Oil Furnature Polish. The bottle was half full and looked like a design from the earley 1950's. Anyway, what the heck, I tried it, it worked. With some rubing it removed every trace of glue from the fancy can I'd been trying everything else on without success. When finished, you couldn't tell there'd ever been anything sticky on the unmirred surface. So it looks like at least some furnature polishes do the trick. Of corse, there may be more than one kind of "Sticky4Ever" used under the labels.

I have a hard time believing Weldbond can be submerged in a birdbath. this is a quote from Linlee's test "After the glues finally dried, actually 1 glue, the Weldbond took forever. I plunged the test into water for a total of 3 days. The SiliconeII looked the same coming out as it did going in...kinda murky with bubbles. Of course it was still as removable as always using a blade. Also note that this is the only one of the three that can be used for leveling. The Weldbond pretty much slid off of the glass at about 3 hours into the water bath. But note that when it actually dried it was very clear. The Mac dried fast and clear. That milky haze eventually went away. At the 3 hour mark the edges of the glue that were squished out of the test piece did start to get a milky edge. At this point it was really easy to pull this overflow off with my finger nail. But even after the 3 day mark I couldn't pry that thing off without fear of shattering the test plate."