An Inappropriate Attachment
bbstx
9 years ago
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ellendi
9 years agoTheRedHouse
9 years agoRelated Discussions
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Comments (54)May I add another path to this fractuous thread? There is a difference in what would be appropriate to the highly-visible front yard and the fenced-in, very private backyard. For example, we want to be consistent with our neighbors in the front yard landscaping. Well, I should say the "range of consistent" since some neighbors do nothing more than the obligatory foundation generic shrub and stop there. I refuse to stop there!! We have a very large flower bed (120 square feet) lining the walkway to the door, but it is in the roses/azalea/lantana cottage style of the neighborhood. Very neat, very cottage. But the hidden, private backyard is a complete departure from the neighborhood. It's the proverbial clearing in the tropical jungle. (Atleast that's what I'm aiming for!!) I hope this adds to the discussion....See MoreFicus Trees in Containers IV
Comments (329)The first bend in the trunk is result of a previous pruning. I noticed that when I was looking at the first images. Looks like the trunk bifurcated (split to form a 'Y') at that point and one side of the bifurcation was pruned off. In mid-June, the lowest branch marked in yellow should be cut back to 4 leaves. The long branch moving left/ marked yellow in the image above, and the branch moving right/ marked yellow should also be pruned back to 2 leaves. The leader, above these 2 branches and marked in yellow, should be pruned back to a leaf that points in the direction you want the leader to grow. This is called 'directional pruning'. Example: With the above pruning cut made, the new branch (shows as a leaf only, but it's a new branch) in the axil of the leaf on the right will want to grow to the right. If you wanted the new leader to move left, you would prune lower, to just above the leaf on the left. A cut above the leaf attached to the severed part would give rise to a branch growing away from the grower. Because there are other forces in play, like phototropism (tendency for plants to bend toward the brightest light source), there is no guarantee the branch will grow where you wish, so you might need to encourage the new branch that forms in the axil of the leader's top leaf to grow where YOU want it to. I mentioned this already, but I'll reiterate that your tree will respond to pruning with a much higher degree of enthusiasm if you do the pruning A) while the tree's energy reserves are highest, and B) when the tree's current ability to carry on photosynthesis is peaking, both of which will occur during the summer solstice (21 June). 'Father's Day' is easy to remember. If you intend to repot, do it at the same time you prune. While you could probably remove a little soil to cut through (2 cuts) the kinked root that emerges from and returns too the soil, I would do it at the same time you prune the top. Reason: Pruning the top decreases the volume of foliage the roots must work to keep hydrated. It also makes it less likely that a branch on the same side of the tree where the kinked root is attached will die. When a tree is unable to keep certain parts hydrated, it sheds those parts. Unfortunately, they seem to always choose to shed parts the grower feels are essential to the o/a composition/ shape/ style of the tree. Some trees, like junipers/ yews/ arborvitae/ .... , develop a dedicated relationship between individual roots and branches, such that damage to a particular root will kill a particular branch. Notice the live veins connecting roots to individual branches below: This tree ^^^ has 4 branches and 4 live veins. Other trees lack the direct relationship between particular roots and branches. For the genus Ficus, the relation is moderate, but the lower a branch is (and the shorter the tree is) the greater the likelihood that death of a branch or root will result in the dieback of it's counterpart on the opposite side of the root to shoot connection. When serious about earning a green thumb, the largest step a container gardener can take in that direction will come from understanding how water behaves in container media and what that means to the health of your plants' root systems; this, because issues with root function and/or health cause the most problems by far, with some of them seemingly unrelated to root health. Two examples that lend support to the later contention are infections by disease pathogens and insect predation due to a less than robust metabolic rate, caused by limited root function or poor root health. A healthy plant will remain forever elusive unless and until we are able to maintain root systems in an elevated state of vitality (health). Al...See MoreCan hemlocks be protected from the Hemlock Wooly Adelgid?
Comments (0)DEFINITION: The hemlock wooly adelgid (HWA), Adelges tsugae (Annand), is an aphid-like insect that originated in Japan and that infests hemlock species. It was first introduced into this country on the west coast in British Columbia in the 20s, and then was found in Virginia in the 50s. These were presumably separate, accidental infestations. OCCURRENCE: Since the introduction in Virginia, HWA has rapidly moved up the east coast to New England and is devastating both the eastern hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) and the Carolina hemlock (T. caroliniana). Major infestations are found in states from North Carolina to southern New England. There are quarantines in effect in Maine, New Hampshire and Vermont which regulate the movement of hemlock seedlings, nursery stock, and various lumber and bark products from infected areas. DAMAGE: The HWA attaches to the stems at the base of the needles and both kills the needles and prevents new growth. The tree often dies within 4 years, although some trees will survive longer while exhibiting diminished growth. If untreated, death is almost inevitable. LIFE CYCLE: There are two generations of HWA per year. During March and April the adults lay eggs in a cottony mass, which hatch into larvae in April and May and which soon attach to the young hemlock twigs. They then settle down and feed until they mature into adults in mid-June. This new adult generation has one odd feature some of the adults are winged and can only reproduce on certain Japanese spruce. The winged form sets off looking for the spruce and dies off. Unfortunately, the rest of the adults are wingless and happily infest eastern American hemlocks. They lay eggs in mid-June, which hatch and attach to the hemlocks. These adults will over-winter and lay eggs the next spring. IDENTIFICATION OF INFECTED HEMLOCKS: Look for dessicated needles, turning gray-green and dropping off, and white, cottony masses on the undersides of twigs. BIOLOGICAL CONTROLS: There are no known effective native predators for the HWA, but there is a Japanese ladybug, Pseudoscymnus tsugae, which is very effective in Japan (helped by some natural resistance of Japanese hemlock species). The Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station (CAES) is actively engaged in releasing large quantities of this beetle in various infested areas and results are encouraging. Future success will depend on whether enough Japanese ladybugs can be released to keep up with the HWA. FOREST MANAGEMENT: Without biological controls, the eastern hemlock forests are probably doomed. Spraying with pesticides is both prohibitively expensive and often not feasible because of terrain or proximity to streams. GARDEN AND NURSERY MANAGEMENT PHYSICAL MEANS: In a garden or nursery situation, It is often possible to control the HWA and save the hemlocks. The first step is to keep the HWA away discourage birds, squirrels and deer from coming near, and dont put feeders near the hemlocks. Also, keep any plant material from possibly infected areas away. Eggs and crawlers can be knocked off by wind and rain, so a good hosing periodically in spring and early summer can reduce an infestation. GARDEN AND NURSERY MANAGEMENT SUSCEPTIBILITY: Stressed trees are much more susceptible to damage, so its crucial to keep the trees healthy and well fed and watered. Drought stress in particular weakens the tree, as does planting in an inappropriate location. However, if the hemlock is severely infested already, dont fertilize with a high nitrogen fertilizer. This will only enhance the HWA growth. Wait until the infestation is under control before fertilizing. GARDEN AND NURSERY MANAGEMENT CHEMICAL MEANS: The first choice is to spray with horticultural oils or insecticidal soaps. These work by essentially suffocating the HWA, so you need to thorough coat the tree or the insects will survive. This can be difficult if the tree is very tall or inaccessible to spray equipment. Two sprays a year will probably be necessary, and expect to continue for a number of years until either the neighborhood is completely disinfected or other controls are available. The next choice is imidacloprid (Merit) which can be applied by stem injection or by soil drenching. The chemical is taken up by the tree systemically and will protect the tree for 5 months or more, but only if the tree has a healthy sap flow. If the tree is heavily infested, the sap wont flow and the pesticide never gets to the HWA. GARDEN AND NURSERY MANAGEMENT ALTERNATE SPECIES: You can also plant alternate hemlock species which are relatively resistant to HWA. Some American hemlocks from the west coast as well as Japanese hemlocks could be used....See MoreI've entered into a relationship with someone "inappropriate"
Comments (25)So true, John! Think if you’d replaced her immediately. You’d be looking forward to MAC’s spring flush right now! -15F is crazy in zone 7. She grows so quickly that if you were ever to lose her again, you could still replace here a third time. It’s not ideal, of course, but better than not haven’t the pleasure of a love affair with MAC at all. You really should go for it, John. Life IS short. I’m certainly glad I took a chance, and kept mine. There’s something about her that’s so elegant. There’s no one who sees her that doesn’t like her. Because I don’t want much of her growing to the right, those canes I shortened bloom down lower. She has blooms high and low, which always makes for a nice look. I was a bit daunted when Melissa said her tiny thing is now 20F in BOTH directions! I think a good portion of my MAC is growing straight up, and then arching some. The one thing I don’t want, is for her to touch the roof. The tree rats have increased in number over the past year or two. I can’t handle the thought of giving them easy access to the house. Lisa...See Morebbstx
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