Parsley is a cool weather herb in the southeast. If it dies, it's normal, so don't worry. Replant it in the fall and enjoy it through winter and spring. Assuming you did harden off the other herbs (if not, that's the trouble), the problem could be your potting soil. Herbs tend to like very well drained soil that's on the lean side nutritionally. So, if say, you used Miracle Gro potting soil with moisture control and fertilizer, the soil is staying too wet and the plants are getting too much feed. Back off the water first. Make sure the soil is nearly dry before you water. That may be enough for them to perk up. Next time, buy the straight Miracle Grow potting soil without the moisture control. (The fertilizer will leach out of the soil in a few weeks.) Arkansas Traveler is a really big tomato vine. You need a really big pot to grow it in: 18 inches wide and deep at least. If that's not the trouble, it may be hungry. Tomatoes in pots need regular (weekly or at least every other) fertilizer, and of course, they need consistent moisture. Don't ever let the pot go completely dry. The bigger the pot, the longer it stays moist... The pepper will be fine in your all day sun. Feed and water it just like the tomato. As the weather gets even hotter, it will do even better.

We didn't answer your question about whether there are suckers on the first loropetalum you showed. With plants like these that are growing on their own roots, suckers are not a problem since they'll be the same as the rest of the plant. Those are just a concern on something that's been grafted onto the root of a different variety which can send up shoots of the root variety instead of the grafted one you want. For things like the loropetalum or crepe myrtles, the question is whether it's a trunk you want to keep. If you want a multi-trunk plant and need the new shoot to complete the overall shape, keep it. If not, cut it down. There's not enough of that particular plant showing in the picture to make a judgment, but it looks like there's one good straight trunk and the rest go off in strange directions and shapes. The one growing toward the house could be a problem. Personally, I prefer these with multiple trunks, but this close to the house and with the awkward side trunks, you may need to cut away all but the one good one. There may be other suckers later that will develop into nice side trunks with proper pruning, but that would take some time.

Hi There, I am in the Manchester, NH area. I believe you a zone 4 up there. Is the area you are planning sun or shade? You mentioned a "wooded setting". Are you looking towards shrubs or perennials/annuals or a mix? Do you currently live in NH, and would you be up at the cottage fairly regularly to maintain the garden, or do you need very self-sufficient, low maintenance plants? I have a wide variety of perennials, shrubs and trees in my yard, and I also deal with deer, chipmunks, woodchucks, etc.... I am happy to help, but I need more info. Here is a link that can give you an idea about what plants are deer resistant. Thanks! Susan Here is a link that might be useful: Deer Resistant Plants

I'm sorry to say, but I can tell you right now that a number of the plants you brought are not winter hardy in zone 6. Rosemary, the Winston Churchill fuchsia, Mexican sage, Mexican petunia, heliotrope, & lantana all will not survive winters where you are now. Any plant that's in a container outside can also be dropped by 2 -3 zones, depending on where the pot is, size of containers, etc. Please be aware that some of the plants you have in containers that would normally make it through a West Virginia winter might not while in containers. The roses will be more liable to freeze & die in the pots too. The ground, although cold & frozen winter, always retains some residual warmth & is far safer than plants in pots. Is there any place that you can store your plants for now to prevent freezes? Even with such a condition, plants like lantana will not survive prolonged cold, let alone any freezing. My suggestion would be to find a cool greenhouse, not a warm one, where plants could overwinter without danger of being killed. A cool greenhouse is one where night temperatures are kept around 45 F so in your area, that would mean some source of warmth during cold winter days & nights. You just don't want it too warm so that would stimulate growth. It's really hard to move from a warmer zone to one where many of your beloved plants can't grow. I did that & after 14 years in my cold 'hell', moved back to warmer climes & enjoying it no end.