Any size inflatable ball, Make sure the ball is fully inflated so there is no give Flower Pot big enough that when you set the ball in it that only about a quarter of the ball sets in the flower pot. You want to be able to set the ball in the pot and the ball does not fall out of the pot. This is important and so very helpful when working with a large ball You will need the following Couple of large Trash Bags Concrete Bonding agent.......Lowes, HD next to concrete dyes looks like Elmers glue. Bonding agent helps new mixture to stick to dried project. Use half water half bonding agent when you need extra hard hold or for really large projects Fiberglass drywall tape you can get this at lowes, home depo one roll last forever 1 sturdy plastic Flower Pot Do Not use Terra Cotta pot. I use a light mix works well 1 Part Portland Not concrete mix that you buy this has to be PORTLAND CEMENT 1 part peat moss 1 parts perlite 1 Part water This makes a lightweight but very strong project Vaseline Caution Do use gloves, Do use a mask when mixing as the dust is very fine and will get in your nose and mouth, use goggle over glasses trust me the dust will scratch your glasses 1 Make your hypertufa mix well and let it set 2 Place one opened trash bag in the flower pot so that the bottom of the bag is inside the pot let the rest fold over the sides. You will use the part of the bag that is hanging over to cover your Speer once done. 3 . Totally cover your ball with Vaseline be generous. Then rub what is on your hands into your hands really well. Your hands will thank you later 4 Locate the Air Valve on your ball, Place your ball in the flowerpot making sure that the air valve is at the bottom when ball is setting in the flower pot Getting started is the hardest part many people find it helpful to take a hand full of mixture and rub it all over the ball its helps the rest stick better Start applying your tuff to your ball. There are many different ways to start everyone has their own style. I usually start at the bottom and go all the way around the ball turning the flowerpot as needed and working my way up the ball. Trying covering your ball in equal amounts all the way around. The ball can get very heavy and will flip on you really quickly.. The bigger the ball the easier it will flip on you ******** It can be hard to get started DonÂt Give up Once your ball is totally covered and your feel itÂs held well then takes the part of the trash bag that is hanging over and brings it up over the project and cover. I then take the second trash bag open and cover the entire project again. Place in a safe place and let it set Now try really hard not to open the bags and look at your project for a week. Amount of time depends on weather After a week I then open the ball and depending on the size of my ball or what effects I want I will apply a second coat of mixture in a different color This is also where you pick up the project out of the flower pot and if the opening is larger then you want then you use the mixture with the bonding agent to fill in as much of this area as you want. Remember you will have to leave a large enough opening to deflate the ball and pull it out or not some people just cover the opening and leave the ball in. I always deflate the ball and pull it out. If you do not want an opening at this point you deflate the ball and pull out, take some very thin chicken wire and the tape, cover the opening and apply mixture on top and blend in with rest of hypertufa and you will have a hollow Speer. Depending on the size of your project closing the opening up you may want to take a two step approach. Patch in as much as possible leaving just enough room to deflate ball and pull it out let project dry for a couple of days in same fashion as above then deflate ball pull out then use chicken wire and tape cover remaining hole which should be no more then 3-4 inches across and cover with hypertufa Applying mixture really thick is not necessary I have many Speers that are no more then 1/2 in thick and they are very strong *******This part is important on the second coat or for closing openings instead of water in your mixture use half water and half concrete bonding agent. If project is really large also apply some of the fiberglass drywall tape to the Speer several strips from top of Speer to the bottom helps.. Do not apply a heavy second coat and DO NOT PRESS IT HARD OR YOU WILL CRACK FIRST COAT. The second coat is really just for special effects or to cover small areas you didnÂt apply enough of first time and is not necessary for Soccer ball, BB ball sized projects. . **** Remember the inside of your project will be very smooth you can always cut this Speer in half and use itÂs for future mold by simply lining it with a plastic bag. Once project has cured 2-3 weeks in a safe spot I then just unwrap them set them in the garden for several weeks and let nature take care of things 2 or 3 good rain storms and you can plant in them . If project is more than 1 inch thick some drill holes in the bottom will be needed for drainage If your mixture is to dry add a little bit of water and mix well continue to do this until you can squeeze a little water out of a handful If your mixture is to wet try laying your mixture on some newspaper for a few min and newspaper will absorb excess water or add more ingredites just remember to add equal parts of each . If your mixture continues to slide off your ball then it has to much water Happy Tuffing Ladies itÂs like being a little kid again and getting to play in the mud as long as you want. WARNING Tuffing is fun and will draw neighborhood kids by the dozen, so work in a secure place or be willing to answer lots of questions. This whole process is very confusing to children they just canÂt understand an adult playing in the mud like that and having a good time.

More on Dr. Bronner's: "Dr. Bronner's Soaps & Sal Suds Click here to read our Frequently Asked Questions. Quality Soaps Explained Soaps have been made for millennia. Aside from making fire and cooking food, "saponifying" oil and fat into soap is one of the oldest and simplest chemical reactions known to humankind. In fact, the first soaps were accidentally made by fat dripping into the ashes of cooking fires. Soap is made by saponifying a fat or oil with an alkali. A fat or oil is a "triglyceride," which means that three fatty acids of various carbon lengths are attached to a glycerine backbone. The alkali is either sodium (for bars) or potassium (for liquids) hydroxide, made by running electricity through salt water. The saponification process is a simple one-step reaction with no waste generated: the glycerine is split off from the fatty acids, and the fatty acids combine with the sodium or potassium to form soap, while the hydroxide forms water. The result is soap, glycerin and water (no alkali remains in our soaps). Quality soap-making consists in great part of choosing the right proportions of the right oils with their different fatty acids. Most commercial soap manufacturers skimp on quality because of cost and use lots of tallow from beef fat with a little bit of coconut or palm kernel oil. Our unsurpassed soaps are made with olive, hemp and palm oils instead of tallow, and contain three to four times more coconut oil than commercial soaps. Saponified coconut oil generates high-lather cleansing even in hard water because it has shorter-chain saturated fatty acids. Hemp, olive and palm oil-based soaps make a mild, smooth, creamy lather because these oils contain longer-chain unsaturated and poly-unsaturated fatty acids. Other Ways Dr. Bronner's Makes a Higher-Quality Soap Unlike most commercial soap-makers who distill the glycerin out of their soaps to sell separately, we retain it in our soaps for its superb moisturizing qualities. We superfat our soaps with hemp and jojoba oils for a milder, smoother lather. Â We use natural plant-derived vitamin E and citric acid to protect freshness. Â We do not add any chelating agents, dyes, whiteners or synthetic fragrances. Â We use pure and powerful high-quality essential oils. Â Our liquid soaps are 3 to 4 times more concentrated than most so-called "liquid soaps" on the market, and are only a few percent away from being a solid, which ecologically saves on packaging materials. Â Our new plastic cylinder bottles are made from 100% post-consumer recycled (PCR) plastic. Â Our soaps are a superb value, costing less than less-concentrated, inferior detergent body-wash "liquid soaps." Â Our soaps are most popular for at-home washing, but they also are the soap of choice for many campers and hikers, as they are so biodegradable and nature-friendly. Dr. Bronner's soaps have spread by reputation for quality and word-of-mouth into virtually every health food store in the country."

I decided to do a patent search on DW detergent to see if I could find any information about the use of detergent tablets. The search turned up all kinds of information about DW detergents and patents granted to P&G, Palmolive and Reckitt Benckiser. Almost all companies state that the use of tablets provides easier dosing, and less storage and transportation costs. I wonder which is really important to them, the ease of dosage or reducing storage and transportation costs. Multi layer tablets solve some problems due to the fact that it keeps some components separate from each other avoiding reaction, instability and exhaustion of the components before they are even used, and some components are damaged by the compression used to make tablets so putting them together in layers helps prevent this. Given this I wonder if they can mix this stuff together into a powder? I know they could, but would it be as effective? Dishwasher Pacs are described as a tablet also, just that one compartment of them may contain a gel which may contain hydrogenated castor oil as a thickening agent. Oil this is the reason my hands were oily when I bought a bag of Cascade 2n1 action pacs reached in and found that some of them were busted, pulled my hand out and it was full of oil. P&G and Reckit Bencisker approach etching a little differently in that P&G uses insoluble zinc salts and RB uses a variety of soluble materials and could use zirconium, titanium and other things. RB also claims to add water soluble glass components to their mixtureI guess to help replace components that get worn away from washing. One patent for DW Gel stated that the Gel was developed because water was known to leak into the detergent cup during the dishwasher pre wash and once there would mix with the detergent and cause a very high alkalinity and a breakdown of the detergent before it was released into the main wash. The Gel worked because it had a higher surface tension and the water leakage was not consequential.Hmm never heard about this--I thought it just supposed to be convenient. If I remember correctly I had a Dw that you could not use a gel in because it would be oozing out of the cup during the prewash.so I guess water could run in also. I found something interesting in a P&G patent that was dealing with the use of enzymes. The information stated that chorine bleach required manufactures to use special processing and storage precautions to protect compounds and it caused some damage to metal rims on china and silverware, but that there was no known surfactant that could perform its function which was to prevent the formation and deposition of troublesome proteins and protein grease complexes on hard surfaces during the washing process. These statements make me wonder if this is the reason I get identical cleaning results from ElectraSol powder containing chlorine bleach and almost any other detergent containing enzymes. Both of these clean just fine for me. In the patents all companies give a series of scenarios and ingredients they MAY use in the products and they dont necessary state that they are using any method but they do state a preferred scenarioso no one can ever really tell what they are doing, but you can get an idea of the compounds involved. I found the search interesting and it seems that this is just one big research field in which all companies know a lot about the background and chemistry involved and are merely tweaking things by building on the past which makes sense. I did not do a complete exhaustive search so there may be other patents that are newer than the ones I found which are dated from about 1990 to 2003. The above comments about the information are mine. If you want to get the details you should do the patent search. Good stuff if you are interested in wading through it.

Sue36: The assets of the estate have to fulfill the debts of the estate first and the wishes of deceased second. As I have stated earlier, my parents want their sons buried in the six family plots on our St. Sava Eastern Orthodox Church property in Libertyville, Illinois if possible. They knew that marriages, distant lives, and other situations may not make that possible. Even if my brothers objected to the prepayment of funeral expenses,which they have not, I would move to carry out the request with all the power, assets, and will to make it happen. It is a nonissue with my brothers and not something that has ever been a consideration with my brothers wives, ex-wives, or children. The point you make about giving too much money to lawyers on this matter is a good one because the matter and the estate would be at greater jeopardy and suffer a reduced value if anyone wanted to fight the relatively low cost of prepaid funerals compared to the high cost of infighting with attornies. It is simply a nonissue because my brothers know anyone not buried in Libertyville will simply be allowing our church to retain the funds. Our cemetery does not give refunds or allow you to resell grave plots once you buy them. You either use them or surrender them back to the church with no compensation. It is a nonissue. The matter of right of first refusal for the heirs is not for the purpose of reducing or deflecting my fiduciary obligations, but will be a part of the process so that my brothers will have a chance to buy a solidly built all brick home at three-quarters of the price of the highest offer because they have a one quarter interest already built in. I have already stated that unless I strike gold somewhere, I am in no position to purchase the house at any price. My oldest brother and my second youngest brother could. My youngest brother, who is currently 51 years old, is an irrepairable drug addict who will probably blow his share of the estate on drugs if one of his associates doesn't kill him for it. I sold my parents last home with the help of an estate attorney and did not pay any brokers and I don't feel a need to bribe someone that is supposed to be working for and being paid by their clients who are looking to buy a house. There will not be that many "looky-loo" types because the terms for the professionals will be too "lame"?, and the escorted tours will be too short and too few per day for the penniless dreamers. Thanks for the concern, but the last time around I got good advice from a good lawyer and it cost us about $500.00 for his services to sell the home in West Allis, Wisconsin. I know the lawyers fees will be higher this time around, but as a percentage of the selling price it will probably be less. Joobee: At least your opinion is with the majority, but realtors value is highly overrated by those not smart enough to talk to a real estate attorney. A regular auction would bring less money for the home. Dianemargret: Why do I get the impression you write to penpals in prison for henious felonies? I will not be running a fake Dutch auction that will stop at a certain price, but one that will go on until the house is sold. On that basis, yes I want to get the highest price possible but if it is not a high price, it doesn't matter. It is not a matter of the house going to the less advantaged, but simply a desire to have interested parties start accrueing money if they wish to get involved. This will put more interested wannabe homeowners in the pool. A lot of people who do not have substantial assets at hand may have the ability to get financed and the advance notice will give them time. Sorry Dianemargret, I am old school and I have not given you or anyone permission to insult me, so why waste my time answering questions that are not important to me. I do find your behavior toward me interesting, but not surprising in a world with so many "politically correct" wussy men. Minibim: Responding to opinions and questions hardly constitutes attention seeking. Maybe we read different books. If I live long enough to execute this plan, I will be back to advise anyone still around about the results, and I will be honest whether I win, lose, or draw. Thank you for the well wishes. Ruudman