The very best cleaner I have ever found is Easy Off Oven Cleaner, in the blue can, fume free. I have a fiberglass shower and that stuff works great let me tell you... I have been using it for about 3 years now and the chrome fixtures etc still look great, it does not harm them. I spray it on, let it sit for a few minutes then what ever tool you normally use as a scrubber... but it does not take much elbow grease.

"Tue, Aug 19, 08 at 16:32 I've just started making soap (more like a mess than anything...) and need tips. Its mostly just MP soap right now, but I plan on making soap from "scratch" once I get the hang of it. Most everything I've made so far is too soft or just plain runny. A couple of my soap-making books suggest using beauty bars and unscented bar soap to make a higher quality product (by adding oils of course). I currently have palm oil, almond oil, coconut oil, a few tiny bottles of Dr. Bronner's Magic Soap (base I guess...), and Kirk's Castile soap bars on hand. Recipes are welcome! :) Thanks! " Hi Abby, I have not attempted MP (nor really want to), so keep this in mind; I am coming from purely a "from scratch" experience only. If you are wanting to make your own soap, buy yourself a good quality scale. I use a triple beam scale, but you could get a digital scale that will measure down to the gram or tenth of an ounce, with a tare feature. To me it sounds like your soap has too much added oil in it You said that you are mixing ¾ of a cup of added oils/fats, to 2 cups of already made soap. First of all, measuring by the cup is not accurate for CP soap (MP, I am not sure of remember) Volume by the cup, is very different then by the weight. How much air is in that cup? In order for the oils/fats to be incorporated into the grated soap, would have to be far less than the amount that you have used according to that recipe. Most soap on the shelves, if it is indeed soap, the superfatting (this is what you are really doing, by adding the extra 0oils/fats, is at best around 8% and definately not close to zero at all. (Anything less than zero will burn skin = chemical burn from the sodium hydroxide, and just above zero could irritate) I make CP soap at 3 ½% superfatting, and that is low to most soaperÂs preferences. So, I would guess that the already made soap that you are grating is between, 4 to 9%; then you are adding more oils/fats. The amount that you should consider to add to that may be around 2 to 5%, but this is only a guess because we do not know how much "extra"/superfatting is in the store bought soap. The oily soap that you have made must have far exceeded the 8 or 9% that I have mentioned. This will not harden up for you. That soap is not usable in that state. Salvageable? Probably, but not at this stage of the game. Find yourself a good scale, and a mentor for making your MP soap, even a local hobby shop may be a good start? I hope this helps a bit and have fun with it! I check this forum infrequently but post any more questions; some others may help as well.

Hi, thanks for the links. This is really helpful! I've been to Millersoap.com, and find it immensely helpful. Much better, even, than some books out there.

Carol, Whatever, the oddities of the interaction between the net and the device (MacbookPro; does not happen on my ipad or ipad mini). Chrome gets wonky on me a lot! And yes, I always have a lot of tabs open, whenever my kids of DH see it they flip out. It does seem to work better if I only keep 5 or 6 up at a time... but closing them didn't resolve this. I am fine now, I don't need the morning glories. : )