Hi, Just saw your post. Here's my list, I just copied from "my page - exchanges". achillea millefolium - cranberry pink achillea tomentosa - very dwarf yellow yarrow - not invasive amaranthus seedlings - dwarf and tall ampelopsis brevipendunculata variegata anise hyssop - agastache blue fortune anthriscus sylvestris ravenswing aster frikartii astrantia Moulin Rouge baptisia bearded german iris - all colors, all gorgeous fancy and large, bee balm - red, maroon, pink, white, lavender bleeding heart  pink, white, pink fringed bronze fennel brunnera brunnera ÂJack Frost campanula blue clips campanula cherry bells campanula cochlearifolia campanula glomerata campanula persicifolia campanula sarastro centaurea dealbata  persian coneflower centaurea montana  montana bluet clematis  Radar Love - yellow coreopsis  crème brulee coreopsis  moonbeam coreopsis - zagreb corydalis lutea dahlia - arabian night - dark red dahlias - red, yellow, pink, maroon, white with purple edges dark red sweet william "sooty" daylilies - orange, red, yellow, maroon, cream, etc. dog tooth violet - erythronium donkey tail - euphorbia myrsinites eryngium  sea holly eupatorium - joe pye weed eupatorium 'cori' - dwarf blue (perennial ageratum) euphorbia dulcis Âchamaeleon  red leaves euphorbia myrsinites  donkeytail fleece flower - polygonum bistorta geranium Âmax frei geranium Âsamobor geranium sanguineum striatum  light pink golden creeping jenny hens and chicks hibiscus moscheutos - pink hardy hibiscus hosta patriot hosta sum and substance hyacinthoides hispanica - wood hyacinth  purple, pink and white iris  german bearded  ÂBatik  dark purple splashed with white iris  german bearded  ÂBeverly Sills pink iris  german bearded  ÂDover Beach  light and dark blue bicolor iris  german bearded  ÂSamurai Warrior red iris  german bearded  various purples and pinks, peach iris ensata Âgusto jack-in-the-pulpit japanese blood grass kniphofia  poker plant lady's mantle - alchemilla mollis lambs ears lilies - asiatic orange, yellow, light pink, dark pink lily Âblack beauty lily -asiaticÂmonte negro lysimachia - alexander may apple - podophyllum miscanthus sinensis Âsilver feather miscanthus sinensis variegatus nepeta  walkers low pearly everlasting peonies - sarah bernhardt, karl rosenfeld, festiva maxima, ballerina polygonum bistorta - fleece flower primrose  heirloom light yellow - very, very long bloom time primrose  scarlet with yellow eye rose campion - lychnis coronaria rose of sharon - various colors salvia may night salvia schwellenburg scabiosa ochreleuca sedums creeping - lots of different kinds - pink, yellow, white sedums tall - autumn joy, frosty morn, brilliant, matrona seedlings - knautia macedonica soapwort - pink stachys hummelo - betony stokesia - purple parasol tradescantia  spiderwort  dark purple, violet purple, hot pink, light purple turtlehead - chelone - pink - careful it's a spreader! verbena bonariensis - tall and purple veronica Âcrater lake blue veronica incana - silver leaves, purple spiky flowers willow  arctic willow  narrow blue-green leaves willow - hakura nishiki (white variegated leaves) willow - salix alba 'flame' - gorgeous bright orange bark wood hyacinth - pink yucca - bright edge (yellow striped leaves) Please email me directly if interested. thanks

Hi! I'm doing soy candles for the first time and tryed CB-135 with US ECSENTIA chocolate fudge FO (10%) The contaminar have 3" of diameter,. The candle looked lovely: smoth surface and very fragrant. 24h after, I Light the candles ( I make 3 diferent wicks: eco wick 4 ; eco wick 6 (following wick Guide) and small woodwick from 4CANDLES. Wick 6 did made a nice melt pool and the wick 4 also get the edges but not so quickly. The woodwick make the candle tunneling. The scent was perfect and I was confident. After reach a Good melt pool I let the candle burn for about 3 hours. When wax resolidify, There was an awful brown strip on the three candles on the place of the melting pools. Next day lighted the candles again: very poor scent, the melting pool get much more time to achieve but did with wick ECO 6 and ECO 4 and did not with woodwick. The colour of the surfaces get much more dark even. I try the same wax with diferent scents this time: 2 from 4candles and 1 from scent perfique. now I have to Wait 48h and then light then to see what happen. If someone did already face this problem, please help me.

I have been making and selling candles for ten years now. When I started, I was using parafin but within a year I switched to soy. That was about the time they had introduced soy. I use a crock pot. My husband drilled a hole near the bottom, on the side, and put a spicot on it. I melt the wax in the crock pot. I have it set on the dial where it wil heat the wax to 150 degrees. I then pour the amount of melted wax that I want (let's say 14oz) into a glass measuring cup. I then add the scent. Usually about 1oz. It also depends on how strong the scent is, so take a wiff while your stirring. That will be about how strong it will be when the candle is burning. Then I add the coloring. I've tried different ways to color and I liked the liquid color the best but now I don't use any coloring. My label for my jars are the color the candle would be. As soon as I have added the sent and color, I pour it right into the jars.(I use 8oz mason jars) I don't heat my jars first but I do have my wicks already 'glued' into the jars before I pour in the wax. I put a dab of hot glue on the wick tab and attach it to the bottom of the jar. That way it stays centered and in place while the wax is cooling. The 14oz that I mentioned above plus the scent will fill two 8oz jars just right. Once the wax cools, I cut off the wick and put on the lid. I have not had any problems with the scent of my candles. I have repeat buyers. My question to you is what kind of wick do you use. I use a hemp core wick that is already tabbed and dipped in wax to stiffen it. It sounds as if you might be using a zinc core wick. The zinc core wicks will cause alot of the same problems you're having. I tried to use up the zinc core wicks that I had left over from when I made parafin candles and they do not work in soy wax. I was trying to save myself some money but that didn't work. I buy my supplies from Bitter Creek Candle Supply. A link to their site below. I would recommend them to anyone. They have alot of helpful ideas and they do have live help on their site. I don't know what time of day but they usually have someone on there everyday. You can also call them on the phone and there is always someone available. They love talking about candles. I hope this has helped you. Keep trying, you'll get the hang of it. Cindy Here is a link that might be useful: Bitter Creek Candle Supply

I have done that before too and didn't have a problem with it. As long as the wax temp isn't going above the maximum melting temp (like around 185) it should be fine. As far as the candle frost goes, you may want to take into consideration the room temperature. I have found that during the summer when my home is nice and warm (over 70 degrees) my soy candles cool with pretty much no frosting, but during the winter, I have a much harder time if I don't keep the room warm. Also, you might try letting the wax cool to very slushy and then heat it back up again to 150 and then let it cool again to 100 degrees and then pour. I've experimented with this and it has given me beautiful tops! Here is a link that might be useful: Soy Candle Making Tips and Tricks