it can be done, BUT keep in mind tha the heat in the attic directly affects how well the unit cools. when it is 100 outside the unit will have a hard time cooling properly as it will likely be 140-160 in the attic where it vents. so on a hot day it may not be able to cool at all. i dunno how how it gets in your area, i just used teh numbers above cause that is how my area gets during late july/august. but your attic will likely be a minimum of 30degrees warmer than ambient durign hot summer when you need the AC the most. especially dumping heat from it in there.

gordonr, If there's nothing else I've learned during the course of my renovations, I've learned that everything ends up being more complicated than you expect. Once you open up the ceiling or the wall, there always seems to be something in the way of what you want to do. A floor joist where the tub drain needed to be, pipes where I wanted recessed lights to go, and now the recessed light over the tub is where it would make sense to run the duct. I can hardly wait to get to the kitchen renovation! I spoke with a rep in Miele's technical service group yesterday. Initially he was telling me he thought what I wanted to do entailed too long a stretch of duct - that it would reduce the performance of the dryer. I told him I expected that it would not be optimal performance, but what I was trying to determine was whether it would reduce it to the extent that a condenser dryer would have the same performance. He didn't seem to understand what I was getting at, so I gave an example: If the vented model has 15% better performance than the condenser model and the venting I'm doing reduces performance by 15%, then the condenser model would be generally equivalent, but if the vented dryer's performance is 50% greater, the same 15% reduction in performance would still mean the vented dryer was a better choice. I asked if he could give me any information about how much better the vented dryer's performance was than the condenser model and how much the venting I was considering would reduce the vented dryer's performance. At that point, he said he wanted to talk with one of the senior technical reps and put me on hold. When he came back, he told me that the dryer was rated for up to 60 feet (which I already knew) and that I should be fine with what I was planning on doing. He also told me that the sr. rep had indicated that having a condenser dryer in a closet could be problematic because it puts off a lot more heat than a vented dryer - you'd need a lot more air circulation into the closet with a condenser dryer. The closet I'll be putting the w/d into is 68" wide by 29" deep, so the extra heat and air circulation need may not have been as much of an issue for me as it might be for others with a more confined space. One learning that I took away from this: if you start to get the sense that the technical or customer service person you're talking to may not be as knowledgeable as you'd like, ask to talk with a senior rep. Like anywhere else, initial phone calls will be answered by more junior staff who will route the more complicated issues to more experienced staff. I've decided to go with a vented dryer, and now just need to decide between the Miele and the Asko. I'll let everyone know which one I end up with. Jan

Thanks. I follow you. Actually until recently we did have a gap above the fascia board. But the occasional torrential rain + a clogged gutter (too many oaks nearby to remember to keep 'em clean all the time) led me to tuck a 3" x 3" drip edge behind the gutter and under the lowest shingle. Otherwise we were getting water in the walls/basement on those torrential rain days. So I don't think I'd trust those round louvered things in this case....unless....I could remove the gutters, cut the holes, add the round vents, and cover the whole thing with 1x4, leaving a downward "breather notch" at the holes, and then install the drip edge and gutter directly onto the 1"x4". I'll need more energy for that, though, since I just got through installing the drip edge (it's more like flashing, but you get the idea. Thanks for the feedback on all this.

I'm still not clear what you're planning to do. Are you putting the insulation on the floor of the attic, or under the deck of the roof, covering the entire underside of the roof? If on the floor of the attic, you need some kind of baffles from the soffit opening up to and a bit beyond the top of the insulation, so that it doesn't get into the space and block the air flow. If you're putting insulation on the underside of the roof, you'll need baffles all the way from the bottom to the ridge vent so that there's a free flow of air under the insulation from the soffit to the roof. Here's a video that's of value to illustrate first putting baffles on the underside of the roof, before adding insulation on the underside of the roof.