Hi pinchik, first off, I sympathize with your plight. Lots of people post here with adjustment problems after gearkit installation and I have NO idea how they get that way! I have done 100s if not 100s of them and NEVER had limit problem after a gearkit install. Of course we do test the limit switch functionality before giving the estimate as a board and a gearkit is almost never worth doing. You seem like a cautious and meticulous sort of person, if you did everything properly and put it all back the same the board was probably bad when the gear failed. I see this 1 or 2 times a year at most. This scenario of stripped gears can be avoided by keeping the gears lubed and the door in good balance-which allows the force limits to be set low enough a travel limit failure will not soon ruin the gears. If you had recent storm activity it is possible the board has damage. If unplug replug wont help, yo are going toneed a board. Try for used one froma local GDO company?? the pn is on board-like 41a4207-6r or something like that. Not saying thats yor board, jsut thats what the number might look like, dozs of boards, MUST have right one for saftey! HTH Dave.

Try these tips. If one of your neighbors remote controls is inadvertently programmed into your receiver, you door will open when their remote is activated. If this happens you will need to clear out your receiver and reprogram your remote controls. Press and hold the smart/learn button for 6 seconds or until you see the small LED light near the button turn itself off. If the above steps have been followed and the symptoms continue, there may be an electronic short in either the wall control button or the receiver logic board. In this case, remove the wall control wires from terminals 1 and 2 on the motor unit. Should the symptoms persist after the wires are removed, replace the receiver logic board. If the symptoms stop with the wall control wires removed from the motor unit, replace the wall control button, and the wires leading to the wall control button.

What made the 1.2hp Genie a lemon? A 3/4hp is adequate for a typical 16x8 metal door. There are 2 main companies that dominate the market: Genie and Chamberlain (who also make Liftmaster and Craftsman). These are both US based companies. The big box stores sell a couple non-US based products as well, currently Skylink and Sommer. The openers the US companies offer and where to buy them mirror that of other household appliances - for specific product series they will change a function/aesthetic or add/delete a certain amenity to differentiate them at price points for markets or for a specific store, but you are getting the same internal package produced for that series. If you want a certain feature (e.g. single rail, or stainless tub for a washer), then you would move to another series by that manufacturer, who then again differentiates price points for that series. In comparing them at a big box store vs local mom and pop, you have to evaluate features in terms of model numbers. For Liftmaster vs Chamberlain/Crafstman, Liftmaster is marketed as more "professional," with a higher price point, some better-suited parts, and a bit more complicated installation. Chamberlain/Craftsman is marketed as more "homeowner" with a lower price point and easier DIY installation.

My Lift-Master model 1255K door jams only when the door comes up. The problem started happening the other day. The door opens past the point where it has been adjusted to stop and jams up against the end bolt. I unjammed the door by loosening the chain and checked the 'UP' travel adjustment to make sure it was making contact. I checked it with a multi-meter to make sure the contact was making a good connection and it was fine. I tested it a few times and it worked fine. If I wait 5 minutes or more to open the door it will jam again. I removed the receiver logic board and I checked for cold solder joints but there were none. Is there anything else I can do to resolve this issue. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.