Sorry, typo! I meant the 2060, a freestanding right-door opening fridge, which is what I actually linked. I will link it again here. @tinyone. Can you provide measurements around the cut out and the distance in inches from the interior of the cutout to the wall? Without that information it's hard to truly help. @sjhockey - I agree that a right opening door is not ideal. But it offers the best chance of opening enough so the fridge actually can be used. Unless there is enough clearance it can't open left because even a 0-clearance hinge fridge has a handle which will hit the wall and may not fully open. But we can only make "if this" suggestions without the facts/ measurements. Given the facts the OP has posted so far, I don't believe the agent is right. I think I am right. But that could change depending on how far it is from the fridge cutout to the wall on the left and how much space there is between the ovens and the cut out on the right. And if there's enough space for the door to swing open in the aisle between the fridge wall and the island. @tiny -- if you are doing other work in the house, a competent GC could make this all go away very easily. Depending -- again -- on the current location of the electrical outlet in the fridge cut out and the location of the water line it might need an electrician and a plumber in addition to a carpenter who is good enough to do fine finish work and alter an existing cabinet well enough to reuse pieces as needed. If a GC has a good crew, that's the way to go. The percentage paid to him will be worth it as he will be responsible. But I wouldn't let anyone touch anything until you ID a fridge that can function in the space somehow and after you've identified what will need to be altered more or less. Then I'd meet with the GC with the spec sheets in front of you to discuss his suggestions on how to go forward and what it will cost. Only after that would I make a purchase. OTOH, if the cabinet store that furnished the cabinets is known, might be worth a call to them. But then no one person is responsible. I also would be careful about where I purchase the fridge. It weighs 400 pounds. It needs to go from the truck to the door of the house closest to the kitchen. When my fridge was delivered it was to the bottom of my driveway -- the contractor had to bring it up. Don't assume anything. Ask a ton of questions. I'd want people there with the right equipment and in the right numbers to bring it into without ruining the floors, nicking the door, denting it or at worst -- dropping it. I'd find out in advance if the fridge can be tilted horizontally (some cannot). Unfortunately, this is not a Mom's fridge from Sears situation. Here is a link that might be useful: Liebherr 2060

Then there is the Gaggenau with side opening door. I don't quite understand your layout. I don't know if the side opening door helps or hinders. They sell right hinge and left hinge doors. This is a top shelf oven. Dimensions Exterior Width: 23 1/4" Exterior Depth without Door: 21 9/16" Exterior Height: 23 7/16" Interior Width: 16 5/8" Interior Depth: 16 7/8" Interior Height: 15 1/16" Cutout Width: 22 1/16" Cutout Depth: 21 5/8" Cutout Height: 23 1/4" Exterior Height: 23 7/16" Interior Width: 16 5/8" Interior Depth: 16 7/8" Interior Height: 15 1/16" Cutout Width: 22 1/16" Cutout Depth: 21 5/8" Cutout Height: 23 1/4" Here is a link that might be useful: LINK

What is the other duct dimension? What kind of (possibly tortuous) path does it follow to get to the blower? How long is the path? What is the blower interface? If you are thinking of replacing the hood, then you might have to have one adapted to this interface instead of to a typical (and preferred) circular duct.

Not trying to be argumentative, just mulling over food for thought: Do those cooks use cell phones? Using a cell phone is more complex than a cooktop. A cooktop involves on/off, then up or down. Perhaps "unlock" but that can be disabled. Maybe you can get to an appliance store & try some cooktops, test the controls for ease of use & finicky-ness. Your cooks would certainly appreciate the easy clean up of induction. You sound like you enjoy cooking! Why not spend on a 30 inch induction cooktop? If you enjoy the portable, think of what you can do with a real induction cooktop. It has better temperature control & more power than a portable (or so I've read). Mine has an 11 inch burner & a bridge element -- I'm very much enjoying the added capability. I've had my Wolf induction cooktop for 9 months. The controls have turned off 2 or 3 times when I cleaned up splatters (lots of beeping & flashing -- you learn to ignore it). It's so rare & easily, quickly fixed that I can't consider it a problem. One thing to consider: amp requirements. Many (most?) 30 inch induction cooktops require 40 amps electrical. Your current cooktop may be only 20 or 30 amps. So figure in the cost of rewiring too. Even if you stick with the 24 inch plan, check the amp requirements first.