Thanks for taking the time to reply. juliekcmo - It is good to know about the EPA card - I wasn't really planning on a full DIY. If I went with one of the high velocity systems, I would try to cut down on as many labor costs as possible. So, I likely try to do the things I can do myself, like fish the ducts through my walls. That is probably 80% of the labor right there. ionized - Just to give an understanding of my third floor - yes, there are knee walls up there, and there is a finished ceiling. There is a 2'x3' hatch in the ceiling that I open during the summer. When I do this, I can see the peak of the roof (and the powered fan) whuch is only 18"-24" above the hatch. There are a few spots where knee walls aren't quite finished and I could probably crawl behind them. It is very old construction up there and, if I were to do anything with that space, I would gut it and start over. So, I would have the capability of sealing everything up nice and tight. I hope that explained things a little better. I do have my house pretty well sealed. I have all new double pane windows and have installed new entry doors. The only thing I haven't done is insulate the exterior walls (working on abandoning the old knob and tube electrical wiring first). I grew up in a house with forced air heat with a humidifier. I never realized how much I needed that humidifier until I moved here. I currently sleep with a portable humidifier during the winter and that seems to help a whole lot, but I would rather have a whole house solution so I don't have to deal with the portable one. I am not anxious to get rid of my radiators, but I am not totally against it if it would make sense while installing a new system. I didn't realize mini-splits could be installed on an interior wall or ceiling - that's good information to have. The need for a humidifier is still a sticking point with me, but it is good to know. Thanks again!

"Is the plaster that I have purchased the same as Easysand?" Easysand and Durabond are USG products. They are setting type joint compound, supplied as a powder and mixed with water. There are some other brands of setting compound out there. The problem with 'patching plaster' (even the USG stuff( is that the final coat is rarely just plaster, but a mixture of plaster and lime putty. Plaster sets way to fast (even with a lot of retarder) and straight lime putty sets way to slow (months). The mixture of the two provides a surface that sets in a few hour and then continues to harden for weeks. Durabond and Easysand both harden by the same chemical reactions as plaster, and not by drying out like premixed drywall mud. If you do not have much experience with plaster repair, stick with Easysand. Mix it about as thick as peanut butter (no limps please) and then apply with either a drywall knife for small repairs, or a plasterer's trowel for large areas (youre areas are small). Do not try to achieve a perfect finish on the first coat, but try to not leave excess material. The second coat will be easier to smooth since it will be thinner. Easysand can be scraped with a drywall knife after it hardens to remove any lines or other marks sticking out, and then another layer applied. You do not need to wait for Easysand to dry before recoating, just harden. Durabond is as hard as real lime putty plaster and very difficult to sand. Sanding also removes the smoothness from tooling with steel.

From reading all of this it is apparent to me that the DIY methods are radically different from the old school plumbers methods. Everyone is talking about running to the hardware store and replacing the stem and such. I must be getting Alzheimer's or something because I honestly can't remember the last time I actually had to replace a stem. In the trade the old school plumbers all have a small metal multi-compartmented box that holds a complete assortment of both flat & beveled faucet washers, an assortment of Bib screws, brass cup washers and hopefully a pair of bottoming taps for the screw threads. In addition we have a roll of stem packing material and a couple specialty tools, a handle puller and a set of plumbers sockets. Now I would not expect a homeowner to purchase a complete Sexauer Washer set at $55 but you can buy a complete assortment of washers at any hardware store for about $2 and keep them in your tool box. Begin by turning the water off at an angle stop, a zone valve or at the main if necessary, then open the faucet and drain the line. Remove the handle retaining screw, then use the handle puller to lift the handle off the end of the stem shaft. Pounding on the handle with a wrench is a sure way to damage the handle. (handle pullers are about $10 at any hardware store) If the stem body is accessible such as on the laundry faucet in question or a kitchen or lavatory faucet use an adjustable wrench to remove the stem body. If the stem body is recessed into the wall such as on a tub/shower mixer use a plumbers socket to remove it. (A full set of plumbers sockets is about $10 at any hardware store). When you get the stem body out remove the bib screw that holds the washer on the end of the stem, then remove the old washer. Examine the end of the stem. Most stems have a cast raised ridge that surrounds the outer part of the washer to prevent it from expanding outwards. You may find a chip or two missing from that ridge, if so, that is not a big problem but in a worst case we find the greater portion of that ridge is missing. In that case we use a pair of pliers to break off the remaining portion of the ridge, then use a file to smooth any burrs so the end of the stem has a flat surface. Select the correct washer and if you had to file the end of the stem flat you install a brass cup washer under the washer to replace the ridge. If you have a bottoming tap available it is best to run the tap in the threads of the stem to clean the threads, then put the screw through the washer and into the stem and tighten it in place. Next, unscrew the stem packing nut on the outer end of the stem and turn the stem until you can remove it from the stem body. Use a fine stainless steel wire brush to clean the threads of the stem and apply a liberal coating of "Plumbers grease" on the threads. (A small 1oz can of plumbers grease is available at any hardware store for about $.50 to $1.) Now remove the old stem packing material from the outer end of the stem body. Insert the stem into the body and turn it until the stem is in the full open position. Now you wind the new stem packing material around the stem shaft and push it down into the stem journal. continue packing until the stem packing material is slightly higher than the end of the stem body. Replace the stem packing nut and tighten slightly so you feel a slight friction when turning the stem. Now set the stem aside for a minute. Reach your finger nail into the faucet body and feel the surface of the seat. If the seat is pitted, chipped or feels like a rough sandpaper surface replace the seat. To replace the seat you insert a seat wrench into the center opening of the seat, then unscrew the seat. (You can get a seat wrench at any hardware store for about $3). Normally you will have to take the old seat to a good neighborhood hardware store and have them match a new one. (Ace & True value hardware stores are great for matching seats, but don't expect a lot of luck at Lowes or HD) Here is a tip. The original seats are usually brass. For a few cents more you can get "Monel metel" which will hold up much better and if you have severe hard water condition that tears the seats up quickly you might want to get a stainless steel seat. The SS is will cost about twice as much as the brass but it will outlast the brass 10 to 1. Before installing the new seat apply a couple turns of white single density Teflon tape to the threads. (There is a trick to installing the new seat. It is nearly impossible to hold the seat and get the threads started in the faucet body. The trick is to wedge the new seat on the end of your seat wrench and use the wrench to reach it in an start it.) Now here is the one point that many people overlook. Before you attempt to install the stem body back into the faucet be sure the stem is turned to the full open position. If it is in the closed position the new washer will be pressed too tightly against the seat and it is instantly distorted beyond use. Tighten the stem body, then turn the water one. You may need to tighten the stem packing nut a bit to seal the new packing. Once you are sure there is no leak replace the handle and your done. The first time you do this you may end up buying the afore mentioned tools but even if you do buy the tools, the total cost of the job is far less than the cost of a professional service call, and once you own the tools the next time you do this job all you will be out is a few cents for the washers and stem packing. I would strongly suggest every homeowner or DIY'er should get these tools and keep them in your tool box. Also, next time your at a hardware grab a package of assorted faucet washers. The package is about a dollar or two and with the price of gas it simply isn't worth coming back to the store for them when you need them.

Looks like wallpaper to me :) I prefer repairs that resemble the original install method but you can also look into specific repair systems with plaster washers, or even use drywall and mud. You'll want to remove all the paper (steamer, or whatever method work ok), and anything loose. A lathe/plaster wall relies on the mechanical hold of "keys" through the lathe. Basically, the scratch coat is pushed through the lathe, and those blobs harden and hold it in place. So, you'll need to remove anything that is cracked and the surrounding area. You'll know you can stop removing once you see the keys through the lathe (ie ones that haven't broken off). The actual repair would be a pretty long post, but your basic options for further googling are: 1. scratch/brown/finish, known as a 3-coat plaster (probably what you have already). Products aren't usually carried at big-box stores, so call around to plaster suppliers or masonry/stucco suppliers. They'll be able to help you with product selection. 2. Drywall patch - a sort of 2-coat plaster system. Cut a drywall patch to fit the new hole (not too thick, might only need 1/4" drywall). Use durabond to mud it in. Finish coat with durabond. 3. Look into repairing with plaster washers (I'm not familiar myself).