I grew acorn squash last year in +/- 30 gallon plastic construction tubs (used for mixing cement, etc). Drill plenty of holes in the tubs and elevate on bricks to aid the drainage and use a good soil mix that won't get too compacted (VERY important!). I over-planted and started with 3 per pot but thinned later to 2 per. The plants turned out to be 2 vining and 2 semi-bush, I think. That's probably because the seeds were saved from a squash I bought for eating. This year I'm going to try purchased seed of a semi-bush variety. I'd actually have preferred a true vining type to take advantage of the trellissing but the variety is limited here in Holland. For growing in pots I don't think you could get more than 1 per pot of the true bush types because they'd block each others' light too much. Maybe someone else can help with that info. I placed the pots about 2-3 feet from a fence and leaned 4 x 6 foot plain metal garden-fence trellis panels from the base of the pot to the stockade fence. The holes in the trellis were about 6 inches square. As the squash or pumpkin grows you will need to gently guide the vines toward the trellis and upwards. Squash aren't natural climbers even though they do put out anchor tendrils (suckers?) that will twine around the trellis. Use either coated wire, clips or fabric to loosly tie the vines up. The thicker the anchors the better, as the stalks are hollow and break or bend easily. This year I found some thick foam coated wire specially for tying up plants and it should work well. Last year I used plastic C clips and moved them as needed to areas that needed support. The suckers will help anchor the vines but aren't super strong so you can't rely on them alone to keep the plant on the trellis, especially once the fruit gets bigger. One of the plants really took off and ended up growing along the top of the stockade fence, which was fine with me! I didn't bother tying it up a lot at that point, just looped it around so it would stay put. My plants last year didn't produce a whole lot. I had trouble with blossom end rot and later from mildew. But when the fruits did start to form I gently guided them through the holes of the trellis so that they hung on the back side of it. So the vines and leaves were on the outside of the trellis and the fruit had plenty of room to grow on the fence side. The bushier plants didn'd need any support until later in the summer and I used some 1.5 foot high shelving units from a small portable greenhouse to support the short vines with fruit that grew over the side of the pots. Anything about the same height as the pot should work, like a plastic deck chair or something. I just was afraid that the vine would break if it just hung over the side with a squash dangling in mid-air. It was great fun and a good experiment, growing these. We made a big event out of eating the 2 biggest squash and then enjoyed the little ones in a nice stir-fry.... :^D Hope you have as much fun. Susanne

Taken from spray foam under roof commentary........ "Ready for this… here it comes… roofs leak. They always have. They always will. Sometime you see the leak, sometimes you don’t. This is true regardless of what system you use. There is no greater risk of roof damage with SPF, regardless of type, under a roof deck when exposed to a leak than the risk compared to structural insulated panels (SIPs) or typical commercial compact flat roofs. We can build with multiple layers of insulation and membranes and decking, and somehow we manage to deal with roof leaks. It is not the end of the world. SPF is not a greater risk under a roof deck than the risk associated with commercial compact flat roofs with multiple layers of insulation sandwiched between roof membranes and metal and wood structural decks. SPF is not a greater risk under a roof deck than the risk associated with SIPs." Realize when I say roof leaks I am talking about roof leaks from a roof deck with no insulation of any kind (no panels - nothing) They are comparing their foam to SIPs. I am talking about just OSB decking no panels no insulation of any kind on roof deck. If there is a roof leak you will see it in a Katy, Tx rain storm. I am talking about a sloped roof. Realize Houston total rainfall is comparable to places like Oregon. Except the rain fall in Houston area tends to occur in big and some times long rain storms rather than smaller rain storms all year long. Taken from spray foam under roof commentary........ "Ready for something else? Here it comes… sloping roofs are less of a risk than flat roofs. Wow. This gravity thing is a big deal. With a sloping roof you have less hydrostatic pressure and if you do have a leak it is more likely to be seen inside regardless of roof type. Note the “regardless of roof type” comment. Built up compact, SIP, SPS… it does not matter." Sure but once that roof is saturated for hours and hours long of rain fall, if there is a leak the water will find it. If the roof deck is insulated you will have to rip all that insulation out to find where the leak is. Gravity works against you here. That is the point is it not? The water travels how far down the insulation until at some weak point in the insulated roof deck it starts dripping. Yeah that's going to cost you. I can't make this point any more clear to you. You must realize the people selling this product are doing what they can to keep selling it. It creates more problems than it cures and it's costly. If you're made of money then you probably have other problems dividing your attention right now. All across the nation if you've ever ridden on an air plane or flown in a helicopter... look at the top of commercial flat roofs. What do you see? building after building? I'll tell you what I see.... HVAC package units sitting in the out door weather. In some cases even the duct work sits on the roofs covered in what is commonly referred to as a 'dog house' to protect the ducts from the weather. Everybody and their brother has something to sell you, no? I don't know maybe you are trying to sell it to me? (good luck, I know better) They all claim they have the best thing since sliced bread. I am here to tell you it's not what it's cracked up to be. (I have been in rental homes, I have been in home owner homes for over 22 years now... I have personally found roof leaks on more than one occasion, not only in homes of others... but also my own. I am not a roofer by the way.... For those reasons, I will never agree with mentality of insulating a roof deck. It doesn't hold water. After what I have pointed out, if you choose to continue to think it's a better way you may never have a problem with it. Roofs in various parts of the country can last what? 30 years? By the time people start complaining of roof leaks and big messes with an insulated roof deck you could retire huh? )

Setting up takes some planning but it's easy. The first thing you need to do is to decide on what type of bin you want. The simplest bins can be constructed by using plastic organizing containers. You will need to drill holes in the bottom for drainage and in the sides for airflow. Although these are inexpensive, they are not as good an option as other designs. For example, harvesting the castings in this type requires that you separate the worms from the castings. There are other options such as flow through bins or stackable systems. These can be built or purchased. Worms The next thing you need to decide is what type of worms to use. There are several choices including red wrigglers. These are a good choice because they are hardy and perform very well in bins. They live in colonies naturally so they are ideally suited for this purpose. Bedding The worms need bedding so that they have a place to live. Bedding consists of many types of materials such as shredded paper (no glossy ads), aged manures, or even cardboard. Worm Tea The leachate from the bin is called worm tea. This is the liquid that drains off the bottom. It is filled with valuable humic acids and other dissolved nutrients that are great for plants. It's important to provide adequate drainage so that the worm don't drown in the tea. To collect the tea, place a suitable container below the bin such as a shallow plastic tray. Separating castings from worms. There are several ways to do this. One is to feed on one side of the bin to draw the worms to one side. When they congregate on one side you can harvest castings from the opposing side. Other methods include using screens to separate worms from castings.

Please contact the seller directly. They will not see your question on a public forum.