Dracaenas are sensitive to both Chlorine & Fluoride in tap water. That's most likely the reason for the tips of the leaves turning brown like that. You can try leaving some water sitting out for at least a day, giving the Chlorine time to evaporate away. I don't think that there's much you can do about the Fluoride tho, it can't evaporate. Leaving the tap water sitting out for at least a day might work. For some people it does, but others it doesn't. I tried this method out when I bought a couple of Dracaenas. It seemed to work fine at first, then one of them started showing signs of browning too, but only on a couple of leaves. Luckily, I was closely monitoring both plants and noticed it right away. So the browning was very small and only on the very tip of the leaves. After I noticed it, I stopped watering them with tap water. I collect and store a lot of rainwater to use for my carnivorous plants, because you can't use tap water on them. So I have more than enough of it in my reserves, and now use it to water both of my Dracaenas as well. Since then, the browning hasn't gotten any worse. If you don't want or have the spare time to collect rainwater, or don't live in an area where it rains that much, then you can buy distilled water fairly cheap at the store. But for me, collecting rainwater is the way to go. It's fairly easy, once you get the hang of it, and it doesn't take up a whole lot of time either. Plus, it's free. :)

A quick and cursory web search for "soil testing in South Africa" produced a large list, many of which may not be what you want. A quick and cursory search for "Agricultural schools in South Africa" produced this "Formal agricultural training is available at five different levels, i.e. at primary schools, secondary schools, colleges of agriculture, technikons and universities." as well as a fairly long list of such schools. Some places to start to find out about the soil pH and nutrient levels. These simple soil tests, 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. may also help.

Well, with regards to my last post I just want to say thank you to all of you who bothered to give me advice, and that my plant is now sprouting leaves! Thanx 2 ALL; I guess I just needed to give it some time--apparently. :)

Joe is right! You need to repot into a grittier soil mix-try commercial cactus mix which you can mix at 50-50 with coarse sand or a fine grade of gravel. the plant also enjoys full sun all day. Salvia is a heat loving plant and will enjoy your warmest, sunniest driest spot on your porch or in your yard. I,too, love this genus and have a Salvia apiana which I have in a clay pot with a soil mix of 1 part of this mix: commercial potting soil: 5 parts supersoil soil conditioner: 5 parts fine ground cover bank: 5 parts perlite: 3 parts then combine 1 part of above mix with 1 part of pumice to make the final mix for the sage. on the bottom of the clay pot I use a piece of screening to cover the drain hole then cover with 1/4-1/2 inch pea gravel then fill in with above mix, set on the salvia, and fill in with more mix. I have my plant in the sunniest spot I can find that is easy to get to to water (on the roof!) it gets some late afternoon shade. the plant leaves will appear to be closing up when it gets too dry but with the above mix I can water every other day or twice a week as the leaves indicate that it is dry. It is better to let the plant dry to the wilting point than overwater. Click here to read about Salvia