Help!Thread keeps bunching up under the plate?
rebecca15
16 years ago
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msmarion
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Bunched up clivias
Comments (28)Hi, To followup on a few things. I'm very excited the plant bloomed. A great example of how hardy Clivias are despite our abuses. As for dividing large clumps, sometimes you just have to take a small axe and split the rhizome as best you can between plants. Sometimes you get offsets without roots. Dip in root tone and put these in sand or peat and keep it lightly moist with weak fertilizer solution for 2-3 months undisturbed. You will be amazed at the roots that develop from this previously "nonviable" appearing plant. Furthermore, that exposed rhizome oftens times becomes an offset factory in 2 years. If you take the little offsets too early, it will take forever to bloom (3-5 years). If you let them get to at least 6-8 leaves, they will bloom in 1-2 years. The smaller ones also have a harder time surviving. As for blooms stuck in the crown, keep the plant cool/cold (not freezing) as long as possible to allow the stalk to elongate. Also keep it dark (trashcan over it if large and outside) to make it "reach for the light," finally, some high strength potassium (0-0-30 I think) in theory can help elongate the stalk. The surest way to have a SHORT stalk is place the budding plant in a bright warm spot. Sometimes, we are jsut stuck with what mother nature gives us, though. As for Clivia prices, I'm still amazed they are so expensive for basic plants. Our local big box stores (HD, Lowes, ...) sell "Golden Dragon" for $30 in 1 gallon in bloom. These are a very narrow petal yellow that sell for $15 on ebay. Our local higher end nurseries sell the Solomone yellow (broader petals, sometimes reflexed back, light yellow to dark yellow) Clivias for $35-40 in 1-2 gallon sizes. I can pick these up for about $20 each in either bud or early bloom if anyone is interested. Shipping from California to the east coast is about $10 for 1 plant, $15 for 2-3 (maybe 4) and about $20 for 4+ plants. Likewise, I can get some landscape peaches (not in bloom) in 10" pots for about $50-60, but shipping costs about $30 on something this large. Individual 10-14 leaf offsets from these pots can run $25-30 each, and also cost a lot less to ship. Finally, variegated oranges from Solomones nursery run about $60-75 in bud/bloom for 2 gal sizes. Here is a picture of Solomone' nursery to give you a feeling for the quantities of Clivias available, and why they really don't need to sell for $100 for basic plants. [IMG]http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj154/Heronbayclivias/Solomone%20Clivias/SolomonesApr07.jpg[/IMG] I wish you all good luck with your blooms in the next couple months. Craig rugg1999@prodigy.net...See Morethread bunching
Comments (5)Are you using a heavy bobbin thread? I still have the one that came with my machine. It is possible to get a download that doesn't work well. I download lots of free things and some work better than others. What are you trying to put it on? I did some name logo's on knit shirts and it was difficult to get it to work nicely no mater what stabilizer I used. good luck in sewing! Sally aka Nana24...See MoreSE270D thread piling up
Comments (3)Here are a few things to check: Are the feed dogs up? Is the presser foot down? Is the embroidery unit engaged properly? Is the hoop attached properly? Is the embroidery arm hitting something? If you can't detect anything wrong with the machine, maybe it's something in the design you are using - poor digitizing, too dense for your machine/fabric, etc. If it does seem like something with the machine, take it back where you bought it and make them fix it! Donna...See MoreHow do I adjust my sewing machine to keep the thread from breakin
Comments (2)Thread snapping and needle breaking sounds like wrong threading or wrong setup. All sewing machines needs service now and then. Give the machine some TLC, oil all places, check with the instruction manual if you have it. There are holes to be oiled, lids to be lifted, sometimes loosening of a screw or two is needed. All models and makes are different this way. In general: move all joints and moving parts that touch, it is all about reducing friction. Check for any threads and lint around the bobbin case and feed dogs (unscrew the needle plate if necessary). It's surprising what can gather there over time. Double check that threading is done correctly on both under thread and over thread. Some models are very particular, the bobbin has to go in the right way (the way it is wound). Then check needle, sometimes low quality needles make machines act up, if possible use Schmetz or Orgran during truble shooting. Check that the needle is put in the correct way for your model (flat side either to the right, left or backwards). This should give you an indication of how the needle is threaded, usually straight on when the flat side of the needle is in the back (facing away from you). Make sure the thread doesn't go around the needle, only straight along the shaft through the hole and under the pressure foot and backwards. Needles needs to be replaced quite often, and make sure they are sharp and not bent. Thicker needle for denim and heavier fabrics, finer for thinner fabrics. Always sharp needle unless you sew jersey or knits. This might have solved the problem, but if not: When you have double checked correct insertion of the needle, set the machine to straight stitching. Make sure the needle doesn't hit the needle plate by manually moving the balance wheel. There is most likely a function for moving the needle to the left or to the right, and there is often a mark on the needle plate for correct posistion. Don't drag the fabric at all when trouble shooting, let the feed dogs do all the work. You most likely don't have to adjust under thread tension, but double check that upper thread tension mechanism is clean and lint free. Some models have automatic tension (Bernina had it on their 60s models), others have a manual knob with numbers, models differ a bit that way. If upper thread tension is too high the tread will snap, but most often it is wrong threading or setup when adjusting the tension doesn't solve it. Only bother about this after straight stitching works fine: Then set the machine to zigzag, check the needle movement manually with your hand turning the balance wheel a few times. The needle should go clear of the needle plate and move within the space it is meant for. There is limit to how wide the zigzag stitch can be set (how far the needle arm swing from right to left when sewing)....See Moredamascusannie
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