Yes, I often stop down to 1 1/2 stopss too, depending on if I'm seeing a lot of light areas in the image. In fact, I don't have a whole lot of time and a big garden, so I have to be efficient. Not knowing what mood I'll be in re depth of field when I look at them later on, I'll take multiple pictures in multiple f stops and in each of those f stops, I'll usually take multiple bracketed exposures, if I explained that right. It's not unusual for me to take 200-300 pictures on a 30 minutes walk around the garden being really efficient! The problem I'm having now is that my lens is too slow and I'm getting lots of slightly blurred images. I need a faster lens, which is too expensive for the moment. Re the reds, if you use the magnetic lasso in photoshop you can isolate areas that you want to have a separate exposure. Also, there is now very exciting new technology by Nik software where you can just click on any area and change that area. I'll definitely be getting that at some point. In the meantime, if it's really a problem, I'll isolate the part of the image I need to change with the magnetic lasso or just manipulate the exposure with levels, but I don't like super saturated reds, so I'll underexpose the reds by a variety of settings to be sure that there is detail in the bloom later on. Working with the exposure should help with the color. If not, you can always manipulate the individual color tones.

Hi, Bob. IF I had to pick just one image editing software program to use, I would choose Paint Shop Pro. I have older versions going back to when it was owned by JASC and later by Corel. The biggest problem with the newer versions is that they DO have more features, but they are also larger programs that use more memory and hard disk storage. This is especially true for the latest version of Adobe Photoshop Elements version 5 .. which is why I purchased version 4.0 .. I wouldn't even be able to use Elements version 5 on my Dell laptop, it is such a memory hog. I also got Elements version 4.0 because it is compatible with my Logitech NuLOOQ Navigator (a hardware device to use in place of a mouse and in conjunction with a graphics tablet). I already had Elements version 2.0 on my computer. Adobe Photoshop 7.0 came bundled with some hardware I bought, possibly my WACOM Intuos graphics tablet. BTW that is a good way to end up with free copies of editing software.. watch the ads for which software programs companies are tossing in if you purchase their hardware.. graphics tablets, laser mice, scanners, photo printers, etc. Elements 4.0 is very good for making quick edits, Auto Enhance, etc. And a nice feature of this is you can also get a more detailed editing window if you choose to, where you have emore control over the editing. I think the big difference between Adobe Elements and Corel PSP is that there are more online places to go get free downloads and tutorials and Plug-Ins for Adobe Elements. Also, many of the Adobe Photoshp Plug-Ins will work in Elements. And some of the Plug-Ins from Adobe WILL also work in Corel PSP. There are more books written for the Adobe products, too. An excellent manual for Adobe Photoshop Elements 4.0 is "Photoshop Elements 4: the Missing Manual", by Barbara Brundage. This weekend, when I have more free time, I will go thru both my Corel PSP and Adobe Elements programs and give you a better comparison. I learned to Image Edit on JASC Paint Shop Pro so have the most familiarity with it. If you stay behind the latest upgrade by a version, you can get it cheaper once a newer version comes out. And you can buy used software at Amazon.com and eBay. It is almost annoying how fast the companies keep coming up with upgrades for their image editing software. Makes it harder to learn the programs and get a feel for what is where in the layout. Gail R (WNY)

Lets take a closer look at that... hpqtra08.exe That's most likley the file causing the issue. This startup entry is started automatically from an entry in your Startup folder in the Start Menu. Going into the registry is not recommended, as you don't want to delete anything! Just stop it from starting up with windows. Also This program hpqtra08.exe is not required to start automatically as you can run it when you need to. It is advised that you disable this program so that it does not take up necessary resources. Post a log using the instructions below. We can take a closer look and make sure that is the file causing the issue, you could probably see it in MSCONFIG but I don't recommend controling startup programs from there. Click Here to download HJTInstall.exe Version 2.0.4 installer. Save HJTInstall.exe to your desktop. Doubleclick on the HJTInstall.exe icon on your desktop. Right click the Hijackthis Icon and Run as Adminstrator if you use Vista or Windows 7 By default it will install to C:\Program Files\Trend Click on Install. It will create a HijackThis icon on the desktop. Once installed, it will launch Hijackthis. Click on the Do a system scan and save a logfile button. It will scan and the log should open in notepad. Click on "Edit > Select All" then click on "Edit > Copy" and Paste the entire contents of the log into your next post. DO NOT use the AnalyzeThis button, its findings are dangerous if misinterpreted. DO NOT have Hijackthis fix anything yet. Most of what HJT lists will be harmless or even required by your Operating System.

A good way to get familar with MS Photo Editor is to try all its features - in other words, play around with it. You'll soon learn what it does. It's not that complicated. CAUTION: Do use procedures that preserve the origial image! Never, never overwite the original. Always save the edited image with a different name. I merely add a dash number to the original file name. For example, if the file was Dscn 1010, the first edit would be saved as Dscn 1010-2, the second edit as Dscn 1010-3, etc. Never edit a file stored in the camera memory chip. Any write to this chip from any source except the camera itself may buger the formatting. Most cameras use their own proprietary formatting scheme. They allocate space for the picture number, and the camera settings, then the image itself. Always copy the images from the memory chip to other media such as a hard drive, rewrittable CDROM, or a USB memory device. In most cases, only the image will copy over. Once you have a copy on your hard drive or other, you are ready to edit away. In this way, all undesireable edits can be deleted. If you should accidentally overwrite the copy of the original image, all is not lost since the origianl is still on the camera chip. However, why expose yourself to this 'klutzy' possibility? We all make unintended keystokes at times. Once copies of the original have been made, set these files as 'read only'. Now, they can not be overwritten. Once copies of the images are on your computer's storage device, you can manipulate these in many ways - and delete the trash results. One of the first things you may wish to do is to rename the files to meaningful names. The name length can be up to the limit of your system. One caution: If you plan to make copies of the finished results such as to a wrtie-once CDROM, watch the name length. Check your manuals. The maximun name length for write-once CDROM is approximately 63 characters. I suggest that the original file number assigned by the camera be kept for tracking purposes. A file named Dscn 901 by the camera might be renamed, Dscn 901 Daytona Beach. Subsequent edits become Dscn 901-2 Daytona Beach, Dscn 901-3 Daytona beach, etc. Have fun!!!