Humic acid is a principal component of humic substances, which are the major organic constituents of soil (humus), peat, coal, many upland streams, dystrophic lakes, and ocean water. It is produced by biodegradation of dead organic matter. It is not a single acid; rather, it is a complex mixture of many different acids containing carboxyl and phenolate groups so that the mixture behaves functionally as a dibasic acid or, occasionally, as a tribasic acid. Humic acids can form complexes with ions that are commonly found in the environment creating humic colloids. Humic and fulvic acids (fulvic acids are humic acids of lower molecular weight and higher oxygen content than other humic acids)are commonly used as a soil supplement in agriculture, and less commonly as a human nutritional supplement. As a nutrition supplement, free form (unreacted) Fulvic acid is found in a liquid form along with mineral colloids。 Fulvic acids are poly-electrolytes and are unique colloids that diffuse easily through membranes whereas all other colloids do not. Fulvic acid supplements consisting of a neutral pH are very weak fulvic compounds and do not deliver the benefits of free form fulvic acid (fulvic acid that remains unreacted with other substances or unboundto minerals) that exhibits a much higher concentration and lower pH[citation needed]. Fulvic acid branded as “ionic” is not free form fulvic acid, more accurately they are fulvic compounds or fulvate salts. According to the International Humic Substances Society all fulvic acids are colloids. Formation and description Humic substances are formed by the microbial degradation of dead plant matter, such as lignin. They are very resistant to further biodegradation. The precise properties and structure of a given sample depend on the water or soil source and the specific conditions of extraction. Nevertheless, the average properties of humic substances from different sources are remarkably similar. Humic substances in soils and sediments can be divided into three main fractions: humic acids, fulvic acids, and humin. The humic and fulvic acids are extracted as a colloidal sol from soil and other solid phase sources into a strongly basic aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Humic acids are precipitated from this solution by adjusting the pH to 1 with hydrochloric acid, leaving the fulvic acids in solution. This is the operational distinction between humic and fulvic acids. Humin is insoluble in dilute alkali. The alcohol-soluble portion of the humic fraction is, in general, named ulmic acid. Gray humic acids (GHA) are soluble in low-ionic-strength alkaline media; brown humic acids (BHA) are soluble in alkaline conditions independent of ionic strength; and fulvic acids (FA) are soluble independent of pH and I. Chromatography and liquid-liquid extraction can be used to separate the components that make up a humic substance. Substances identified include mono-, di-, and tri-hydroxy acids, fatty acids, dicarboxylic acids, linear alcohols, phenolic acids, and terpenoids. Chemical characteristics of humic substances Example of a typical humic acid, having a variety of components including quinone, phenol, catechol and sugar moieties A typical humic substance is a mixture of many molecules, some of which are based on a motif of aromatic nuclei with phenolic and carboxylic substituents, linked together; the illustration shows a typical structure. The functional groups that contribute most to surface charge and reactivity of humic substances are phenolic and carboxylic groups. Humic acids behave as mixtures of dibasic acids, with a pK1 value around 4 for protonation of carboxyl groups and around 8 for protonation of phenolate groups. There is considerable overall similarities among individual humic acids.[4] For this reason, measured pK values for a given sample are average values relating to the constituent species. The other important characteristic is charge density. The molecules may form a supramolecular structure held together by non-covalent forces, such as Van der Waals force, π-π, and CH-π bonds. The presence of carboxylate and phenolate groups gives the humic acids the ability to form complexes with ions such as Mg2+, Ca2+, Fe2+ and Fe3+. Many humic acids have two or more of these groups arranged so as to enable the formation of chelate complexes.[6] The formation of (chelate) complexes is an important aspect of the biological role of humic acids in regulating bioavailability of metal ions. Here is a link that might be useful: Saint Humic Acid

do you have an account on photobucket? if not it's free, go there sign up, and then you can upload the photos from your computer. On the main page (after you set up an account) you will see 3 tabs, and you will probably us the upload photos from my PC option, then just below that are 3 buttons that say browse..click on each one of those one at a time, find your photos on your computer and then tell it to upload (when you are through adding all the photos you want). Once uploaded there will be 4 links directly beneath each photo you have uploaded...you will click on the 3rd one down (HMTL tag is what is says) higlight it or however you do a copy option with your mouse...once you have it copied, you will open back up the post from GW that you were typing then paste it right into text box.... before you submit the GW post you can preview and you will actually see it. I hope this helps...if it's clear as mud, let me know... www.photobucket.com

@livebetter, I am not sure which enzymes in Tide might be causing it because I have not spent the hours researching which exact ones. But there are some enzymes that do eat at protein stains. However, there can be a myriad of different manufacturers for enzymes that fall into a specific generic category. (i.e. just look at surfactants and how many manufacture various types that fall into the same category, but all manufactured differently.) And I know all about this from my history of formulary and manufactring of personal care products. If you look here: http://www.specialtyenzymes.com/products/term/protein-stains You will see there are enzymes specific to attacking proteins. And that is just ONE supplier/manufacturer out of many. From looking at several medical sites, my reaction is not an uncommon one. Speak to an allergist and see just how common my reaction was/is. Because if I am wrong, then the medical community is wrong that has treated people for this specific condition. Then that also means that all the cloth diapering communities are wrong too, with their theory when they use certain enzyme containing detergents and their babies end up with raw skin after wetting their diapers. And this only happening when they have been washed in detergents containing enzymes. I have not spent time on the Tide site looking at their MSDS sheets, although labeling for household cleaners does not fall under the same strict labeling laws as personal care products, so it may or may not be listed what is causing me issues, as the terms on household products are less specific. With those guidelines, even in personal care if there is less than 1% of something in a product it does not need to be listed on the label. Household cleaners are not obligated at all to list which surfactant or enzyme at all, but a more generic term that can group any one of them together. So I doubt looking at an MSDS sheet would do me much good to pin point the specific one.. But from a quick scan it might very well be Proteases enzymes. Since there are many manufacturers of those enzymes, it could be a specific one that is used by one company but not others... In other words some Proteases manufactured by one supplier I might be OK with, and others I may not. And just because that site says they are not contact allergens does not make that true... That is like saying nobody ever reacts to "hypo allergenic" cosmetics. Which, they have products in them to reduce chances for a reaction and they are GRAS, but there is a percentage of the population that still reacts to them severely. And, I would like to note that since you skin is made of protein, and those enzymes are made to attack protein, I rest my case with my theory. My raw skin and severe reaction was a real medical issue, and only after using Tide, and then Tide Free & Clear. All I know is that I am staying clear of what has caused us issues in our household. Tide seems to be the main culprit. (all versions) but I do not have issues with Gain, Arm & Hammer, Costco Kirkland (all varieties), All (all varieties), Clorox Greenworks. I can't mention any others as I haven't used any others in recent years. And I can't say WHICH Proteases I suspect because like I said before, there could be many. And for comparison sake, that would be like stating I am allergic to ALL Anionic surfactants, when there are many on the market made by a multitude of manufacturers for the industry. When in fact if I reacted to one, it wouldn't mean I would react to all of them. (see what I am saying although I am fine and dandy with surfactants, was just using that to compare to to get my point across) In other words, I don't know which one! And, until legislation is changed in the USA with stricter labeling laws on household chemicals and cleaners, I may never know and may never be able to pinpoint the specific enzyme that caused this. Although... I highly doubt I will be trying anything that I have used in the past and caused such severe allergic rashes on my body.

Dear Anne, There are some items that are highly acidic, that I do not reccomend using in scrapbook albums. 1. Newspaper or Magazines, most of these have a LARGE acid content and even with a buffer (acid free paper in between them and the photos) these items put off so much acid that they can in a short time yellow or age everything on that page. Color copy these items and then place the copy in your scrapbook. Kids construction paper, this again is a definite no-no. However the birthday cards and ribbon should be tested with an acid free testing pen. (Price about $2.00) While I have found most ribbon to be acid free, I do not know enough about some types to give this a definite go ahead, the birthday cards are a mixed bag, I have found some really cheap cards that I thought for sure would test positive for acid and they did not, and on the other hand found some really expensive cards that you would have thought would be acid free and they tested positive, so the safest way is to go ahead and test them. If you really would like to add an item that tests positive for acid, then add it to a page that just has journaling on it (in both sides of your page protector), that way you can keep it away from your photos. As for the gel pens, I love them, for a better description of ink go back to an earlier forum question: Am I missing something, I believe that is where you will find the ink discussed, and a link that better explains ink use in scrapbooks. Hope this helps. Penny