Thanks for the response Don. The start capacitor looked okay. I wasn't really sure what to look for, but all four wires were connected tightly. After further tinkering I think the problem is that the shaft coming out of motor with the worm drive on it does not turn freely. I have a similar unit on my other garage door and it turns very easily. Any thoughts? Possible that the shaft is bent??

Here are some things you can check. Some may not pertain and some will. Limited range of your remote controls could be related to radio frequency interference that comes from something in your home or in the surrounding environment. Certain electrical devices can radiate interference; this could be almost anything that is plugged into an electrical outlet. Please keep in mind that the device can be brand new, or can be an item that has been in use for quite a while. Also, the item may continue to function properly as far as you are able to tell. The only problem with the item may be that it has started to broadcast the interference, with no other symptoms noted. Some devices are more likely to generate interference than others. This includes TV cable, cable amplifiers, surge protectors, fluorescent lights, battery charging devices (power tools, golf carts, etc.), anything that utilizes a timer (sprinkler systems, lights, alarm systems, etc.), and a myriad of others. If the problem seems sporadic, we can safely assume that the device responsible for the interference is only being operated during these times. Again, please keep in mind that the age of the device does not determine if it is capable of broadcasting unwanted interference. Any electrical device can be the source of the problem. The first step is replacing the battery in your remote. If the range on your remote does not improve, remove the wall control wires from the overhead unit. If the range does not improve you will likely need to replace the remote control. After replacing the remote, or if you have other remotes programmed in to the opener, and the range problem still exists, please proceed to the Power Down test. Multiple garage doors: If you have two garage door units and one is working just fine, you will need to start by unplugging the good unit. This will help determine if the unit with no range starts to function properly. If the range comes back to the bad unit then you will need to replace the logic board on the unit that was unplugged as it is emitting an RF signal that is over powering the other garage door opener. If the range doesn not improve after the "good" unit has been unplugged, replace the batteries and try programming some additional remotes to determine if the existing remotes are the issue. If the extra remotes do not have any range then you would need to replace the receiver logic board in the "bad" unit. Power Down test: To isolate potential sources of interference, turn the circuit breaker off to the garage and plug the garage door opener into an extension cord from another room. If the range improves, then the interference is coming from a device in the garage. If no improvement is seen follow the same procedure, this time turning off the circuit breakers to your home, with the exception of the garage and test the remote controls. If improvement is noted, turn the circuit breakers back on, one by one, until the range problem resurfaces. This will allow you to narrow down what room the problem device is in. You will have to go from there to isolate it further, by unplugging and re-plugging the items in that room. If you are unable to determine any source of interference, then the receiver logic board in the overhead unit will need to be replaced.

UM? Yes it is a problem with the sensors. Either those sensors are bad or the circuit board is bad. When you hold them right next to one another both lights have to be lit up and they need to stay lit up at all times otherwise the door won't close. The light flashing ten times is a code that means that the sensors are not lined up. If you find the circuit board is at fault then it would be more cost effective to replace the opener.

Vinnie, I would suspect your limits are out of adjustment. Take your chain off the sprocket. Grab one of your remotes and climb on top of a ladder positioned directly behind the opener facing the door. With the chain off the sprocket hit the remote until the sprocket is turning clockwise, let it go until it stops. This will set it on the down limit. By manually moving the trolley (i.e that thing that slides on the rail with the chain connected to it) position the trolley close to the down position. Depending on the way the opener arm hooks to your door it should be around an inch or so from the stop nut on the rail. Put the chain back on the sprocket and tighten everything back up. This should get you back in the ball park. On the left side of your opener ( if you where standing inside and facing out) you will find two knobs. These are your up and down limits. Hit your remote and see where you are now as far as door travel. You may have to tweak the limit knobs a bit to get you back to where you want to be. Let me know if you have any problems.