Saving money when using an air condiioner or dehumidifier
12 years ago
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- 12 years ago
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Comments (39)Happy new year! I would normally have replied much sooner, but everything has been so busy with Christmas, then new year and all the rest. Anyway, I have to agree that conservation is by far the best thing we can do right now, and I believe that it will allways be useful as almost all energy comes with a penalty. Both environmental and financial. I've been thinking about conservation quite a bit recently as I'm trying to get a rough idea how much it would cost to build an affordable house (you might have seen my posts about it?) and I want it to be economical to live in. This is partly an environmental concern, but also because it would be misguided to build an affordable house that isn't also affordable to live in. The majority of most anyone's wages go towards their house, so if I can build a house that uses minimal energy I can spend the money in other more enjoyable ways. I can also design it in such a way it comes in to the lowest possible tax category, but that's beyond the scope of this forum. One of the things that surprises me is when I say I want to build a low energy house that uses renewable energy, people tend to picture something very expensive and custom built. When I researched it I found that commonly they're high end houses built for wealthy customers who were willing to spend a lot of money to have luxury items, like solar PV panels and houses built half underground. I don't however see why houses that use very little energy have to be reserved for wealthy people building custom houses, after all one of the main attractions of a low energy house is the very small monthly bills. A low energy house design/concept that comes within (preferably below) average house prices is long overdue, and also has a massive market potential. Admittedly domestic energy use is a fraction of that used by industrial processes, and also accounts for a similarly small percentage of pollution, but I know nothing about industrial processes and (thankfully) don't pay the bills for them either. At least not directly. I do however know something about houses and how I believe they could work better. My main aim is to build it smaller, but use the space in such a way it's relatively spacious with plenty of storage. I also want to exchange traditional and generally energy wasting and expensive materials for newer materials that cost less. Insulation, and lots of it, is important. I also want high quality finishing materials, but avoiding ornate details and using a more minimalist style should keep the costs reasonable. The other main issue is using the most energy efficient appliances possible, and also installing some renewable stuff like solar hot water heating. At least in concept it seems to work, and hopefully one day I will be able to try it out....See MoreAir exchange question - whole house fan or dehumidifier system?
Comments (7)I second the post from dry dog. I had to install a Sante Fe unit into our new home to get rid the the very smell you mentioned. The problem is that with a tight house and a basement that is 3/4 below grade, the moisture coming through the foundation walls and concrete floors has no place to go. We noticed the problem on days when the humidity was very high outside but the temps were too low for the Ac to come on. I bought a humidistat and measured the basement humidity was abobe 70% on some days which is not good. Started to notice wet spots on the concrete floor and the musty smell. For a short term fix I just ran the AC way below the set point and presto - smell and spots went away. I then ordered the Sante Fe unit and that has been a great permanent solution. I bought mine from iaqsourrce.com. If you get one of these, you will need a drain because it sucks out a lot of water. I installed mine of top of 4" solid conderblocks to elevate it for drainage and the drain dumps into the sump pump basin. The air output directlty in front of the Sante Fe output vent feels dry and warm but once the basement gets down to a decent humidity - say 50% - it actually feels cool and crisp. You can hook up your DH in a variety of ways. I chose the standalone configuration which sucks air from one side of the basement and dumps it at the other end. I then use my HVAC fans to circulate air from the basement to the rest of the house and back. My HVAC unit is in the basement, and there are large air intake vents in the basement and upstairs that feed the main input duct so I get good air circulation between the floors. I bought an IAQ thermostat (Honeywell Vision Pro) that allows me to program the HVAC system fan to turn on for up to 20 minutes every hour to circulate the air even if the HVAC is not running for AC or heat. The Vision Pro also has it's own built in humidistat and can be programmed to use the AC as a dehumidifier if the humidity detected at the tstat is above a programmable amount. The combination of the two features - the whole house DH in the basement and the ability to automatically run the AC below the set point when humidity is too high upstairs - has been a terrific solution to our moisture problems. One thing to note - my Sante Fe unit has an anolog knob for setting the humidity level (no digital output). To get the humidity just right in the basement, I used a battery operated humidistat and kept adjusting the knob until I found the spot where it would keep the basement at a 50% humidity level. I also have a separate Energy Recovery Vent system in my house which I use to bring fresh air in and exhiust stale air from the house. I am very careful with this unit and only turn it on when the humidity outside is low because I don't want to suck in fresh moist air. That would only make the Sante Fe unit run more. I learned that through trial and error - mostly error. If I were in your shoes, i would first fix the humidity issue with a whole house DH. Put one in the basement and then manually turn on the HVAC fan when you want to circulate air between floors. If you get tired on the manual switching of the fan ON, you can add a tstat that provides an automatic air circ feature. After that, then decide if you want to add a seperate air ventilation system in. These are recommended for very tightly sealed houses. If the house is older, you may get enough air infiltration through the walls already. You can fix your issue for a lot less than 2300 dollars. I think the Sante Fe runs around 1100 or so but deals can be found. BTW - don't go cheap on the DH unit becuase you really get what you pay for with these things. Do searches and read reviews. Check the specs and see how many pints of water per 24 hours the thing is rated to extract. Check the air flow rate (usually a CFM number) to see how much air it pushes. Beware of systems that don't have a drain (they use a pan instead) unless you plan on dumping the pan every day or more depending on your humidity problem. Good luck....See MoreWhich would save us more money? Help!
Comments (25)You don't say where you live. I assume its in the south somewhere? Even here in NH its been very hot this past week (in the 90s) and humid. However it did cool down to about 70 at night. We don't have ac because the climate doesn't need it very often, but we do have a whole house fan that we run at night. Its great! The key is the strategic opening of windows so the ww fan will draw cool air all through the house. If a window is open right next to the fan that's where it will draw most the air from so you don't do that. Before the fan we would open the windows as soon as it got cooler out than in, and have fans blowing OUT the upstairs windows, and then close everything down in the morning when it got warmer again. This made a huge difference. Maybe the ww fan would work for you in spring and fall if you live in a very hot place, and save money on ac. It would definitely keep your upstairs cooler since they blow into the attic (also called attic fans). This makes me wonder if your attic is properly vented. Its possible that a po did something that they shouldn't have to your attic vents. OUr house is very well insulated. My dh keeps adding insultation to the attic, and years ago he blew in insulation in the walls. Our heating bill last winter was about $400, with the upstairs kept cool. My moms was $2000 tho for a somewhat bigger victorian house but she keeps her thermostat on 62. We replaced a few windows that were in terrible condition (with wooden windows) but our house is very plain and from the 1920s so not that old. We got 2 over 1 s like the rest of the house and they seem to blend in. I understand what people are saying though. Sometimes you see window replacements and it looks like the soul is gone from the house after. Some folks also object to getting rid of the old weight system windows, but that big gap in the wall where the weight is is an uninsulated weak spot. My dh retrofited many of our old windows so we don't have the weights and he filled the gaps with insulation. I must admit tho that the weight system works great, and I have an easier time opening the windows in which the old system remains. We got interior storm windows which cost about $170 each and they had to be custom cuz the window openings are all slightly different sizes. They are great, but finding a place to store them is a challenge even tho we only take down the ones where we put screens for the summer. They are less expensive than replacement windows, clearly. It did make a big difference in our comfort this winter, and they are a lot nicer than plastic. The other bad thing about them is that they take up some windowsill space and they don't come in very many colors. Good Luck!...See MoreHelp me save some money buying a car, please
Comments (4)cowboyind, Thank you for your thoughtful message, useful as usual. The Golf is efficient and the owners like it. Seems to last a long time, as well. Plus the price of used ones, as with a number of small, fuel-miser vehicles, holds up well in the used vehicle market. Actually, if fuel prices keep rising, possibly some owners could sell for more than they paid new! Some have been saying that this may well be tha last car that I'll need to buy - even when I'm talking the age of vehicle that I mentioned above. At age 76 - who knows - they might be right. But my Dad drove about 2,000 mi. to visit friends in this community where he'd grown up and farmed till in his mid-40s. He drove it alone, when he was 85 - and did it in 3 days, as he usually figured to do. And had done the year before, when I rode with him from the Canadian Prairies down here to my home in London, Ontario. ole joyful...See More- 12 years ago
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