Saving money when using an air condiioner or dehumidifier
12 years ago
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- 12 years ago
- 12 years ago
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dehumidifier or air conditioner in damp, unfinished basement??
Comments (7)Get a dehumidifier. Here's the problem with what was said: Air that can hold more moisture is a good, not a bad, thing because you are talking about relative humidity -- the amount of moisture in the air relative to what it can hold at its temperature: So, by doing nothing other than warming air, you can lower its relative humidity. If you were to put a heater in your basement and warm it from, say, 65 degrees to 75 degrees, you would drop the relative humidity of the basement because, even though the air has the same absolute quantity of moisture in it, the 75 degree air could hold more than the 65 degree air, so the relative humidity is less. But a dehumidifier is even better than a heater because it removes moisture in two ways -- it drops the air to a temperature below its dewpoint, removing actual moisture, and then warms the air, lower the relative humidity further. An air conditioner is a problem for at least two reasons. First, because it cools as it dehumidifies, its ability to dehumidify is limited to situations where cooling is needed. If it's below 70 degrees or so outside, the a/c evaporator is liable to freeze, and at that point it'll keep running but do nothing as far as cooling or dehumidifying until it's shut off and the evaporator is allowed to thaw out. Second, because the a/c lowers the temperature of the air, it makes condensation on those walls and other surfaces more, not less, likely. Why? Because if the surface of a wall is, say 64 degrees, and the air is 65 degrees at a high humidity level, it doesn't take much heat transfer for the wall to pull the air near it down just one degree (and if the humidity approaches 100 percent, that might be enough to create condensation). On the other hand, if the air is 75 degrees with the same absolute quantity of moisture it had at 65 degrees, the wall has to drop the air 11 degrees to create the same condensation. Obviously that's much less likely. And that's the benefit you'd get from a heater alone. With the dehumidifier, the air won't have the same absolute quantity of moisture at 75 as it had at 65 -- it'll have less. Finally, the walls won't stay 64 degrees once you warm the room up. They'll gradually warm up too, further reducing the risk of condensation....See MoreWhich would save us more money? Help!
Comments (25)You don't say where you live. I assume its in the south somewhere? Even here in NH its been very hot this past week (in the 90s) and humid. However it did cool down to about 70 at night. We don't have ac because the climate doesn't need it very often, but we do have a whole house fan that we run at night. Its great! The key is the strategic opening of windows so the ww fan will draw cool air all through the house. If a window is open right next to the fan that's where it will draw most the air from so you don't do that. Before the fan we would open the windows as soon as it got cooler out than in, and have fans blowing OUT the upstairs windows, and then close everything down in the morning when it got warmer again. This made a huge difference. Maybe the ww fan would work for you in spring and fall if you live in a very hot place, and save money on ac. It would definitely keep your upstairs cooler since they blow into the attic (also called attic fans). This makes me wonder if your attic is properly vented. Its possible that a po did something that they shouldn't have to your attic vents. OUr house is very well insulated. My dh keeps adding insultation to the attic, and years ago he blew in insulation in the walls. Our heating bill last winter was about $400, with the upstairs kept cool. My moms was $2000 tho for a somewhat bigger victorian house but she keeps her thermostat on 62. We replaced a few windows that were in terrible condition (with wooden windows) but our house is very plain and from the 1920s so not that old. We got 2 over 1 s like the rest of the house and they seem to blend in. I understand what people are saying though. Sometimes you see window replacements and it looks like the soul is gone from the house after. Some folks also object to getting rid of the old weight system windows, but that big gap in the wall where the weight is is an uninsulated weak spot. My dh retrofited many of our old windows so we don't have the weights and he filled the gaps with insulation. I must admit tho that the weight system works great, and I have an easier time opening the windows in which the old system remains. We got interior storm windows which cost about $170 each and they had to be custom cuz the window openings are all slightly different sizes. They are great, but finding a place to store them is a challenge even tho we only take down the ones where we put screens for the summer. They are less expensive than replacement windows, clearly. It did make a big difference in our comfort this winter, and they are a lot nicer than plastic. The other bad thing about them is that they take up some windowsill space and they don't come in very many colors. Good Luck!...See MoreHow I saved money on Air Conditioning
Comments (19)christine1950- I'm including a link for applying bubble wrap to your windows for additional insulation in the winter, using nothing more than water from a spritz bottle, so it's easy to do and completely reversible. We've been using this tip during the winter for a number of years and getting great results. Our home is 7-years old and has energy efficient windows and we can still tell a difference - especially the bay window in the dining room when we sit down to eat. Tips about using this method.... -Cut your bubble wrap just slightly smaller than your window. If the bubble wrap is a little too generous and is larger than the glass, it will quickly get air under it and begin to pull away from the window. -Check your bubble wrap occasionally and spritz it with water again if it's pulling away from the window. -If you have hard water, use distilled water for the application. Hard water contains minerals that can actually etch your windows. -Bubble wrap with large bubbles works the best, but we have plenty of windows that have bubble wrap with small bubbles on it. -Check furniture stores for a free or cheap source for bubble wrap. -Grainlady Here is a link that might be useful: Bubble wrap window insulation...See More28 Tips To Save Money
Comments (5)On #s 15 & 16, I think it's important to point out that often the alternative to refi and the like is simply pay down the principle! Especially if you're early in the mortgage, every nickel you pay toward the principle means the balance of the loan's interest on that nickel goes into your pocket. Ol' Joyful, I'll need some of your expertise here, but could you figure a rough calculation of an average type house loan, average refi costs applied to the current loan and how that would compare in the end? I think it'd be interesting. Also, said before, but often people think they "need" a new car and don't consider if they put some money into the old one, it'd save in the long run. Remember, new cars have higher insurance and license costs so there's more than the initial price to consider. I would take a bit of issue too with the convenience store avoidance. You could actually save money if wise. Often, convenience stores sell eggs, milk, bread etc at very low prices, often far less than the markets. Plus it's not a special trip, saves time plus there can be (tho not guaranteed - it's up to you) fewer impulse buys. The longer you're in the grocery store, stats say you'll spend more. Again, it's how savvy you are, but be careful. #18 (Shudder) Buyer's Brokers are seldom a good thing. Let's face facts, no real estate agent/realtor or the like works FOR the buyer! Who pays them? The seller. How do they get paid more? By "benefitting" the seller. There's no way the buyer benefits from realtors. The fewer the better in most cases. Why? Because you can often negotiate the realtor fees. If you have one realtor taking the entire commission, it's far easier to negotiate them down than to negotiate with multiple agents and try to negotiate down when they're getting 1/4 or less of the commission. Beware of this statement and check into these claims. You're far better off to have a good real estate attorney on your side. S/He'll be working for YOUR benefit. Mine found problems in the paperwork and embarrassed the daylights out of the stack of realtors, closers and the like at my closing! It was hilarious! Now as for the inspector, yes, that can be worthwhile, but don't use one recommended by the realtor (kickbacks) and make sure you know what they're inspecting, their qualifications and the like. A good alternative can be a trusted friend with qualifications. Hire like any professional. Realize, though, that the inspectors DO NOT GUARANTEE the house! So if they overlook something, it's not their fault or responsibility and they won't be doing anything for you so know what you're getting. A title examination, especially of abstract properties, can be very important especially if you don't know how to read an abstract. Torrens is less problematic. Buying a home brings up a pandora's box of potential problems and far too many to go into here, but there's some things to be careful of. #21 Consumer Reports is a pet peeve of mine. They're often very biased in their reporting. Plus, keep in mind that they do not "test" ALL models and versions, even of similar products! Do you realize that the washer you buy at Home Depot is different than the one you buy at Best Buy and they're both different than the one you buy from a mom-n-pop dealer? That can have significant differences in the specs and needs. One can have cycles and features the other doesn't. Don't get caught up in the CR myth. Read their magazine with a shaker full of salt and do far more research than CR. You'll be doing yourself a favor. That's enough for now. There's more opinions coming, I'm sure! :) Happy saving all! Enjoy the frugal season!...See More- 11 years ago
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