Hi all, I don't know if anyone else has had this problem but here's my solution. I have owned a Troy Bilt Zero turn mower for about 2 years. As with all zero turns they are meant for fairly flat areas, But my problem came because the front steering didn't turn as well as it should. On damp grass the rear tires would slip and dig up the grass under the drive tire on a turn. Also the distance was so slim between the tire and the fork that holds it that grass would jam up between them causing the tire to freeze up and skid on the ground tearing up the grass. I learned to watch for this and if the grass built up I would stop and back up clearing the grass from the wheel but leaving a glob of clippings on the ground. I thought this was normal for all zero turn mowers, until the front tires became distorted and crooked almost like a belt inside the tire was broken. Finally one tire became so distorted it bound up in the steering fork that holds it. Troy Bilt wanted anywhere from $70.00 - $90.00 + shipping for 1 new wheel and tire, and delivery time was 10 days. I went to Harbor Freight and purchased 2 #38943 10" Pneumatic Rigid Caster wheels which include the frame work, bearings, wheel, tire, and axle for $10.99 each. The Harbor Freight frame sits almost perfect inside the original Troy Bilt frame. I welded the one from Harbor Freight inside the Troy Bilt one If ever I need a new tire, wheel, or bearing the whole tire & hub assembly # 43612 costs $9.99 $5.99 on sale. I have found this set-up to work great. It steers better and doesn't get clogged with grass because there is more clearance between the tire and frame work. The only draw back I can see is the bearings aren't grease able, so I may drill the hub for a fitting to be able to grease them. I hope this helps some one else out there. Dave

Thanks Rachel, I'm having fun with those hehe Now I have a place to go to all throughout the day to get away from work (computer). They sure keep me busy when comes watering time lol I'll hold off all fertilizers and just use plain old water for a while. I got some cuttings going on and they actually have new growth on them. I know the caudex won't look at good as growing from seeds, but I'd like to use those cutting ones for future grafting. That's one thing I've always wanted to try. I did a grafting on 2 little seedlings. Well they are still 5 months old but for some reasons, they never grew so I used them and tried to "graft/fuse" them together. They started with no leaves and now they have a few so maybe it worked. I'll just have to wait and see but it looks like they healed nicely. I like to try things so if they die, at least I have plenty more to use hehe Stephane

It looks like it’s in a bed with Hostas, and those have very different cultural requirements compared to Baptisia. For me, Baptisia have always thrived in areas with poorer, unamended, well-draining soil, where they get full sun all day. Most Hostas prefer much richer, moister soil with some shade, so if the Hostas are happy, it may be too rich/moist for the Baptisia. It also may be an overwatering issue: I’ve never given mine any supplemental water after they're established, and they handle heat and drought with no problem thanks to their deep taproots. I definitely wouldn’t top dress them with anything...you don‘t want to retain any more moisture around them.

Thank you, Matt! I searched fig rust. You are right. This does look like rust. The leaves are falling off now. No growth. All leaves are infected. If I remove all leaves, will some leaves grow back this year? Or I have to wait until next Spring for any new leaves? It seems any copper fungicide would work. Should I apply some now? And again next Spring?