OK JD, let the games begin. LOL First off, let's keep something in mind. This thread is about giving the OP advice as to which SIZE of tractor might best suit his needs. Any advice given, was done so based on whatever he disclosed. And the words he used were "with a 'real' tractor, like a small Kubota, Kioti, Farmall Cub, etc.?". So, he defined what "a real tractor" meant to him and I took him into an even larger series. So...... please read messages carefully before you attempt to chastise me by saying that I am giving out bad info. If someone has five acres or more that they intend to "develop" (check the OP's own words), then having a tractor with a FEL is very handy, as we both know. Running a tractor with a FEL requires more skills than running a tractor without one. Buying a tractor with a two pedal hydro means that the operator doesn't have to think about whether s/he is in the correct gear or range. The trannys in "real tractors" have no syncromesh. If you have a hydro, there is no clutch to wear out or abuse nor will you grind any gears and possibly chip or break a tooth off of one. You mentioned a shuttle shift and I agree that they are great. I have run 580 Case's, JD's and JCB's with them but all of these are TLB's that are well over sixty hp and far larger than the OP needs. Anyone who has a reasonable amount of experience with hydrostatic drive knows about the instant torque multiplying feature that is attained just by lessening the pressure on the forward pedal or levers. No need to stop, put the shuttle in neutral, shift gears and then proceed in a lower gear to dive into the pile. I suggest that you stop by a New Holland dealer and try a TC45DA with a loader out. With a push of a button, that machine will shift from low range while entering and leaving the pile to high so that you can scoot to where you want to drop the material that's in the bucket. In my mind, it doesn't get any simpler or easier to use for the novice or the pro operator. I operated one of those Boomers and was totally impressed. And if 4 wheel drive isn't needed for loader work, then why is it that Cat, Case, JCB, Deere etc all offer that feature and enjoy massive sales. I am not even going to go into the logic behind having 4 wheel drive on a loader because it's a no-brainer. Especially when using a loader in muddy or slippery conditions, which happens all too often. The Ford 4000 is a good tractor but it weighs a 1000 pounds more than the Boomer, was never offered in 4 WD and was made between 1965 and 1975. On top of that, all you get out of the pump is 5.4 gpm. Any 4000 that is out there is likely to have well over 3000 hours on it after a minimum of thirty-two years. So, why would I advise someone to buy tractor technology that old and with that much wear and tear on it? Your comment about bucking the loader is bad information. Manufacturers install cylinders on loaders that are appropriate for the strength of the loader arms. If anything, they err on the side of safety because they don't need the warranty issues. As for the "arse flipping up", you just provided the very reason for 4WD. The second you push the loader bucket deep into the pile and try to lift the load, the front axle becomes the pivot point, thus unloading weight off of the rear tires. When that happens, the rear tires lose traction and spin. Having 4WD provides the needed tractive power to exit the pile. Having a cab with fully operable windows, allows you to work in cold weather with heat on and it keeps the snow and wind from making your life miserable. In warm weather, the cab keeps the sun off of your body but allows the air to flow right on through. Having AC means you can choose to turn it on or off, as need be. Sure, it takes a few hp to run the compressor but having it can mean the difference between doing that chore during the day or waiting until the crack of dawn the next day. If that task happens to be bush hogging ten acres of tall grass, then give me the cab and AC because if the bush hog is sized properly for the tractor, there is still plenty of ponies left to run the AC on a TC45. If you read the OP's latest comment, he was pleased to learn just how new a tractor he could buy and how much tractor he could buy for the ten grand plus budget he gave. So..... this isn't about which tractor pleases me or you. He has his property and perceived needs and you have yours. When it's all said and done, the final choice rests with him after reading and considering all the advice in this thread. Thanks for posting.

complete nonsense.... we have the silicone filled hydro-sil heaters throughout our main home in southern wisc. and they without doubt have saved us money. base board heat, is base board heat, you will have some dead spots as opposed to a fan/forced air type furnace. further, has anyone actually priced running a house full of 110 plug in oil filled radiators ??? one alone will cost a small fortune to run and you are heating vertically rather than horizontally which makes absolutely no sense. I'll agree $319 for hydo-sils top of the line silicone filled heater is a big chunk to lay out on a "home-wide" basis, but your $35-40 home-cheapo baseboard heaters cycle roughly 40-45 minutes per hour and they dont retain much if any heat while off. our hydro-sil units cycle on average 18-20 minutes per hour and the silicone filled system will retain heat while they are off. do the math... if you plan to be in your home for a while,they are money well spent. I can say without hesitation that our northern wisconsin cottage/summer home will be getting a hdro-sil make over come spring as our monthly electric bills this winter so far have been astronomical for a house that we spend roughly 2 weekends a month in ,and while away keep the temp at 55 degrees. further while we are there we have an efficient LP heater as well as a wood fireplace that we run continually while we are in that home, so its not as though we crank the electric heat up . as for the amish heaters.. I have no experience with them, but cant see one LP heater being much different from the next unless they have some crazy heat retaining miracle built in or space age blower on it. it being amish alone would disqualify any of the above technologies to ever be at work anyway.

MATERIALS Entry and Kitchen on Main Level Flooring throughout main level: COREtec Pro Plus Monterey Oak. Wall paint throughout whole house: SW Accessible Beige #7036. Full strength on upper level and main level; then changes to 50% strength for the middle and lowest levels bc they get less natural light. Trim paint throughout whole house: SW Snowbound #7004. Stain on window sills and stair railings throughout house: a gel stain in a medium/dark color to compliment the floors, but I don’t know the exact color name. Kitchen Cabinets: Great Northern Cabinet Company paint grade maple in Frosty White. Door style is a basic shaker with a bead, but I can’t remember the exact name of the door style. Hardware: Jeffrey Alexander Durham 1-1/4” mushroom cabinet knobs in satin nickel; Jeffrey Alexander Bremen 1 Series cabinet pulls in 3-3/4”, 5”, and 6-3/8” sizes in satin nickel. Purchased from Build.com. Counters: Taq Mahal Quartzite, polished. Purchased from Arizona tile in Denver. Backsplash: 3”x6” Crossville, Market Collection, Ashbury tile in the color Fleece in crackle finish set in a brick pattern. Fridge, MW and Stove were existing and reinstalled Sink: Elkay Lustertone Classic Stainless Steel 30-1/2” x 18-1/2”x 10” Single Bowl with Perfect Drain and sink grid Faucet: Delta Trinsic Single-handle pull-down sprayer with magnetite docking in shiny chrome. DW: Kitchen Aid 39-Decibel Built-in DW in Stainless Steel purchased from Lowes. Ceiling lights: LED can lights Pendants: I’m not sure bc SIL found them; probably Lowes, Wayfair or Overstock Roman shades: Budget Blinds Counter stools: Not sure bc DS bought them at home and put them together at the house. Bear Clock: Purchased from a local decor shop. Dining and Living Room on Main Level Dining table: Bassett Furniture Bench Made Collection, Harvest Table, 90”x42” in Steel Finish with Standard Edge Dining Chairs: Star Furniture (Houston). Can’t remember the exact name of the chairs, but the word Largo is stamped under the seat. I’ve seen this criss-cross design many other places such as Pottery Barn and other furniture stores. Need to make some chair cushions. Chandelier: I’m not sure bc SIL found them; probably Lowes, Wayfair or Overstock Honeycomb blinds: Budget Blinds Sectional Sofa with queen pull-out bed: Bassett Furniture Area rug: Crate & Barrel Alvarez Garden Rug, 9’x12’. Coffee Table: Bassett Furniture Nesting side tables: Thrift store find, painted and refinished. Fireplace Rock: 3-D Mesh Mount Stack Scabos Split from Arizona Tile in Denver. Fireplace Mantle: Handmade by a local artisan out of Alma, CO. Fireplace was existing. Original gold metal finish was spray painted black and reinstalled. Master Bath Bathroom floor tile: Emser Tile, Hangar Sand in 12”x24”. Grout: Custom Prism #386 Oyster Gray. Shower floor tile: Emser Tile, Explorer Barcelona in 2”x 2”. Grout: Custom Prism #135 Mushroom. Shower wall tile: Arizona Tile H-Line in Cotton Glossy in 4”x16” set in a 1/3 offset pattern. Grout: Custom Prism #11 Snow White. Bath vanity: Great Northern Cabinet Company. The wood is clear Alder and the stain is called Heirloom. Hardware: Top Knobs TK 832 Eden 1-3/8” Mushroom Cabinet Knobs from Serene Series in flat black; Top Knobs TK 823 Lily Cabinet Pull from Serene Series in 5” and 6-5/16” sizes in flat black. Counters: Color Quartz (CQ) Quartz in the color Glacier. Sinks: The fabricator provided the rectangular shaped sinks. They are similar to Kohler Ladena. Faucets: Delta Ashlyn 3-hole widespread faucet in chrome. Towel ring, towel bar and TP holder: Delta Dryden in chrome. Need to add an additional towel bar and some robe hooks. Also we will put something in the empty 3’ space opposite toilet, probably a narrow cabinet. Mirror: Beveled mirror from local glass company. Vanity lighting: I thought I ordered it from Wayfair, but I can’t find my order to list the name. Toilet: American Standard Cadet 3 FloWise 2-Piece 1.28 GPF Single Flush Elongated in white. Showerhead: Delta HydroRain 5-setting showerhead in chrome. Handshower: Delta Universal Showering ActivTouch 9-setting Handshower Valve trims: Delta Ashlyn Shower corner shelf: Delta corner shelf with assist bar in polished chrome. Hall Bath on Middle Level Floor tile, vanity cabinet, hardware, countertop, towel ring, towel bar, toilet, and TP holder are all the same as Master bathroom. Faucet is Delta Ashlyn 1-hole in chrome. Mirror: 30” x 40” Marylee Rectangle Beveled Polish Frameless Wall Mirror. Ordered from Wayfair. Vanity Light: Poppy 3-light vanity light in black finish. Ordered from Wayfair. Tub/shower fixtures: Delta Ashlyn in chrome. Tub: Basic enameled over steel Shower tile: 3”x6” white Daltile flat subway tiles from Home Depot set in a brick pattern, with matching corner shelves and soap dish. Family Room on Middle Level Carpet throughout the rest of the house: Dixie Home Brilliance Stainmaster TruSoft in the color Razzle. Purchased through ProSource by GC. In this room we kept all the existing furniture except SIL bought new lamps. Both sofas have pull-out queen beds. Fireplace Rock and Mantle: Same as living room on main level. Fireplace raised hearth: Arizona Tile Honey Tumbled Lyon Travertine tile. Fireplace framing was painted black same as Living room fireplace framing. Jack and Jill Bathroom on Lowest Level Floor tile, vanity cabinet, hardware, countertop, towel rings, towel bar, toilet, and TP holder are all the same as Master bathroom. Mirror is a plain flat mirror from a local glass shop. Tub, tile and shower fixtures are the same as the Hall bath on middle level. Vanity Lights are 2 sets of Poppy 4-light vanity light in black finish. Ordered from Wayfair.

Aspidistra is a fine plant, and probably a lot cold hardier than most people ever realized. I have two..., one in the ground (in NJ/Zone 7) and one in a big, glazed ceramic tub. I also like Chamaedorea palms. (My collection specializes in palms.) My local big box stores used to sell SOOO many different types of palms, now, it's ALL MAJESTY, ridiculous! (And yes, I do have a Majesty..., for the CHALLENGE.., my coconut is EASY by comparison, LOL!) Palms are not grown successfully by many people, but there are a few that are terrific with home conditions (just not sold too often). If you like palms, I highly recommend Rhapis palms (Lady Palms), and the Kentia palm (Howea). Yes, they can be expensive, but they SURVIVE! I can purchase a lot of exotic palms in my area (outside of the big box stores now), but there is another that has recently become a favorite of mine.., 'Wedding Palm' (Lytocaryum weddellianum). This palm is extremely elegant, does well indoors under less than opitmal sun but I have NEVER seen it sold here, from NYC to Miami. Seems to be a European thing even though they are from Brazil..., go figure!