I must like doing things the hard way. Since all my kitchware is made of ruby red glass...plates, bowls, cups and tumblers etc. it really pains me when I break one. I could not make myself throw the pieces in the trash so I put a plate and vase I broke in a box and stashed it in the garage. Not sure what you plan to do with them...but I got the idea to purchase a small craft rock tumbler and used that to wear down the edges of broken glass. Now I have a nice little pile of "frosted" pieces of glass. I've been using them to make suncatchers and windchimes and wire wraps. I also purchase scrap glass from a local stained glass company :o) ~ Cat

Don't let your wife talk you out of doing this right. It is easy to do it wrong and easy to do it right. When I tell you how to do it right, you're going to laugh and so will your wife. This approach is fool proof if you follow it. You cannot burn or do any harm, and success is guaranteed or I will refund the cost of my advice! 1. Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means 1 inch all at one time. Check your sprinkler or watering system using cat food or tuna cans around the yard. Turn on the sprinkler and time how long it takes to water a full inch. That is your target time for watering. Infrequently means monthly this time of year gradually moving to once per week in the hottest heat of July. If you lived in Las Vegas on sand with 5% humidity and 105 degree days, then you could go to watering every 5 days, but NEVER water every day for 10-20 minutes. 2. Scalp it about one month prior to your last frost date. Find out when that is from your local county agriculture agent. Then reset your mower to 2 1/2 inches and mow when it gets tall enough. Mulch mow every week at that same height. If you have problems with scalping at that height, then your soil surface is not level and you have other issues to deal with. 3. Fertilize with rabbit food (STOP LAUGHING!). Seriously. STOPIT. Rabbit food is made of alfalfa pellets. Alfalfa is one of the common ingredients in organic fertilizers. By buying alfalfa pellets in a plain brown bag, you save about 5/6 the cost of commercially bagged organic fertilizer. This approach will end up costing about the same as the best chemical fertilizers. Another bonus with organic is you never have to worry about using too much. You can't burn the grass with grain type organics. The application rate is 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet of lawn. I fling it by hand on my small yard but it will flow through a broadcast type spreader. Here is a picture of what you can expect to see in a zoysia lawn with alfalfa pellets. The picture was taken by mrmumbles and posted here a few summers ago. He applied the rabbit food in mid May and took the picture in mid June. Did that stop you from laughing? Here is another picture of an organic lawn, Kentucky bluegrass. This guy uses soybean meal and Milorganite to fertilize. His picture was taken in July 2010. He follows the watering, mowing, and fertilizing plan above except he's a nut about soil testing and perfecting his soil chemistry. When you apply the pellets, moisten them - do not drench or try to wash them in, just moisten them. Then the next day your yard will be covered with green worms as the pellets swell up. To get the actual alfalfa into the soil, drag something over the lawn. I use my hose and sweep it over the entire lawn at one time, but a push broom works fine. The reason for this is the birds will fly in to remove your fertilizer if you don't take this step. Of course birds leave behind their own fertilizer, but you want more control than that. You can apply organic fertilizers any time of day or night all year long until you run out of money. Frequent applications, or over applications, will not hurt the grass. Organic fertilizers work completely different from chemical fertilizers. If you follow this approach your lawn will be too dense and the soil surface too dry to support weeds. That will eliminate the need for herbicides. If you do get a few weeds, spot spray with something like Weed-B-Gone Clover Chickweed, and Oxalis spray. Spot spraying is much better than broadcast herbicides. Then all you have to do is watch for insect damage. You can have the best lawn on the block, town, or country using the plan above.

Just how large a crack is it? If it is only localized to a smaller area than the entire pane then I would think that using aquarium glass cement and a smaller sized piece of glass that you could glue over the cracked area from the inside would do the trick. The only problem would be the extent of disturbance of your habitat.

I believe that your cactus is a trichocereus spachianus push it back together and it will either heal with scarring or even pup (if your lucky : D ). If the vascular ring don't reconnectthe top piece may just dry up and fall off. Then your cactus will probably pup from the bottom. If you are really concerned about infection, you need to sprinkle some sulphur powder on the wound. You may want to keep the soil dry for a week or 2 (or all winter if you live somewhere cold) while the cactus recuperates.