For grout lines (yes, you DO need them) shuffle up a dozen or so tiles on edge and measure any size variations. The cheaper the tile, the more difference you'll find. Multiply the variation by three...this is the minimum grout width for that tile. Take a long straightedge and inspect the floor. Is it flat? Humps and birdbaths need to be addressed if more than a quarter inch in ten feet. The bigger the tile, the more critical this becomes to avoid "lippage." Sprinkle some water in various areas. It should absorb into the concrete within a few minutes. If it doesn't, the floor might have a sealer and needs to be roughed up or the thinset will not adhere properly. Thinset should be mixed in a 3 or 5 gallon bucket with a 1/2" drill and a mixing paddle. Put about 2" of cold water in FIRST and slowly add the powder (Versabond from HD is fine) until you get a "buttery" like consistency. Let it sit for at least five minutes and then mix it again. Probably a 1/4" trowel will work for anything up to about a 12" tile, if the floor is pretty flat. The thinset should just hold the ridges without slumping. A good idea is to "burn" in a coat of morter on the tile backs. Just use the flat side of the trowel to put a paper-thin coat on right before you set it, assuring a good bond. Hope this helps and doesn't discourage you...

Thank you for all of your help and knowledge. I'm pretty new to this and you gave me excellent info and links. You also made me realize that the floor isn't the worst of the problems or the first thing I should focus on: it's those cabinets! I had no idea they were a known quantity. Ick! Regarding the cabinets: the easiest thing would be to temporarily remove the doors entirely as one blogger did, but honestly... I need somewhere to store my stuff. I already have about 20 square feet of open shelving and I've put everything attractive there, and used wire baskets with canvas lining to contain a lot of the less attractive. Even if I were to remove the doors 1) the gross interiors would still show; and 2) one of the cabinets is a deep corner one, which is just not going to look good at all (IMO at least). This post (a link from the brilliant Kylie link above sent by @nosoccermom--truly the best treatment of this subject I've found) is by a DIY owner who just painted the "wood" trim. Easy-peasy! But the white of her melamine was truly white, and as Kylie notes, it would be hideous to paint the "wood" white and leave the rest beige or try to match (matching to tobacco stains, omg whathaveigotteninto). Which leads me to two issues: I really need to use some heavy duty TSP/ammonia/OXY/goo be gone type cleaner to see if I can actually get them any whiter (not a lot of renovating experience, but I'm a great deep cleaner!). Part of the problem is that my landlord has painted all the trim white, which makes the beige-nic-whatever-ness so much grosser looking. I've cleaned them with regular kitchen cleaner and they're definitely not greasy, but maybe there is some level of filth that still needs to be stripped off. That's step one. If they're not white, I need to talk to my landlord about simply painting them white: just the beige area wouldn't be hard to do from what I've seen with the right product and some time/care (flat surface, right?--not the whole shebang including the "wood", and would definitely improve the look of the place. I think he'd be amenable. If not, maybe I could try finding some contact paper or adhesive to attach something that is either white or blue and truly removable. And clean well when I do move (don't worry @nosoccermom!). :) Question: is the "wood" on these cabinets actually wood? One blogger suggests that it is, in that she suggests a quick "helping" fix can be to use this product. It doesn't feel like it, and parts of the edges are crumbling. Even if it's not, is it possible to treat it like it is and stain it (after cleaning etc., of course)? Does anyone know definitively whether it is in fact wood on this type of cabinetry? The idea of adding hardware is great, thank you (@nosoccermom again!) I'm actually headed to Ikea this weekend and they have these pulls for (e.g. two 15" for $9.99). That's do-able! Larger pulls actually installed in the face of the cabinet would have a better "pull the eye away from the horror" effect per Kylie, but I know I can drill and then putty up these when I move. Maybe I'll talk to my landlord about putting in something more tho--if I pay for it he might be cool. They can't get worse. So in short, going to start with the cabinets, since I know that needs to be fixed and is the worst eyesore. As for the floor, I've said above I really don't want to put down any sort of rug, but I have found well-reviewed recycled plastic, reversible rugs from Fab Habitat like this one: (tried to make a collage lol--a link to the product here). NB: often listed at ridiculously high prices--a comparable FH 6x9 on Houzz is currently $329. They're machine made, out of plastic straws. But other stores (and the manufacturer) sell it for much, much less). And I already have an outdoor one that I've decided doesn't fit in my cyan-ized living room--just wish the nap was lower (can you seal a rug like a floor cloth so it has no nap? I bought it for a steal, I really don't care...), but maybe I'll do it :( If anyone has more advice I'd LOVE it! No Anglophile "pro" decorators tho, please! That elitist post bugged me all night :(. Thank you all so much. What a great community! :)

I look at kitchen equipment/bowls/pots/pans etc like I do clothes: I wear only some of my clothes all the time, but when I need a particular piece, nothing else will do, so I must have it! i.e., if it's a black tie party/wedding, my black leggings/cashmere turtleneck and boots are not going to do it for me! The same is true in my kitchen. I make an angel food cake 3-4 times a year, but no other pan will do - don't like angle food cake made in a loaf pan. I don't use but one of my mixing bowls very often, but when I need them (such as when I'm baking that angle food cake and must sift flour/sugar multiple times), having several is very useful. I don't use my cake pans very often, but there is really no substitute - same with pie pans. I use my big Le Creuset a lot in the winter, but never the rest of the year. I don't bake all that often, or whip cream, but I'm mighty glad to have my KA stand mixer. I haven't made a cheese cake in years, but may someday and a springform pan is essential. If I were starting over would I go out and buy all these things? Perhaps not, but something tells me I'd be placing a quick Amazon Prime order for things all the time if I didn't! One thing I have multiples of in my kitchen is a small mixing bowl (have it on both sides of the kitchen, a liquid measuring cup (one by the sink, one near the stove), kitchen scissors - I actually have 3 pair on 3 different walls!), and my beloved spreaders are on two walls.

If you have a good layout, changing out cabinets for new cabinets does not have to be break the bank expensive, especially if you do not need custom. Many of the home center stores carry good quality, made in the USA cabinets. They are less expensive because they come in standard sizes only, rather than being custom made. We had the same problem 20 years ago - cabinet doors falling apart and falling on the cook - that would be me. We also thought we would be moving in 5 years - we didn't, so keep that possibility in mind. We used Medallion and they are sill in fine shape. I've also used Shrock with good results. There are often different levels within a brand - don't go with the cheapest. I don't know if Ikea is less or not. The cost of removing old cabinets and replacing with new without moving plumbing or electrical is doable. If your layout is not good, see how much it would cost to improve it. Since you don't have a picture, I can't tell. The biggest problem I often see is stovetops on small islands - hard to vent and difficult to cook at - something like that would be best moved to the perimeter. If laminate counters are the standard in your area, that is fine. If you do go with a laminate, but want to have an interesting sink, the Kohler Vault is a stainless steel apron front sink that has a version that can be top mounted. It is a little more than a standard stainless under mount, but might add a bit to the kitchen if that is your style. Home center stores have kitchen sales frequently - like every 4 to 6 weeks, so don't feel pressured into making a decision because the cabinets are on sale.