Ah! That's what was bothering me about the center cabinet. I agree, I think open shelves will open that area up. I'm not an "open shelf" person, but if you are and you will have them, don't make them "heavy" (that's what the cabinet boxes are doing to them right now). Is this a temporary remodel or the only remodel you plan for many years to come? If temporary for only a couple of years, I would probably skip some of the items in your list and put the money you save toward the full-scale remodel in the future. Only do what you think will (1) make your kitchen function much better and (2) be part of the full-scale remodel (like the sink & faucet...as long as you keep them then!) I would probably just paint the backsplash, not put the time and $$ into it now. If, however, this is the only remodel you plan, then I would do whatever you can w/the $$ you have now...but just what you really want. If there are some things you want but cannot afford right now, wait until you've saved more to do what you really want. Since it's DIY, you can do it piecemeal as you save up $$. As to the cabinets, I could go either way...I do prefer wood (natural or stained), but you have a lot of wood already so painting would probably be OK.

There was a thread on this topic some months ago--see below. There are some good photos of niches. Our project is bogged down, but I have a few additional comments since I posted... Because we have to watch our pennies, I'm shopping in bargain places. One problem I have encountered is that oddball lots of tiles often don't include bullnose pieces as well as regular field tile sizes. The niche that we have roughed in will require some cute tricks to make ordinary tile edges seem attractive and classy; we don't want to just snip tiles and leave raw edges. DH, my sweaty equity, did not finish the niche smoothly when he created it in drywall because we knew we would cover it in tile. Now, we're thinking that we might not do the tiling right away and he'll have to pull out drywall tools and make a proper corner edging around the niche. This kind of "go back and do over" gig is getting very frustrating. [Meanwhile, I've found a smashingly exciting tile that of course only comes without trim pieces. It's sitting right next to me, thinking. Unfortunately it has a decidedly unfinished raw edge and will require tricky handling if we choose to use it. I just covered it over so I can't see it tempting me there on the table. Have to be more practical. ] Tile shops do carry a metal edging that can be used to finish off edges when no bullnose is available, but I haven't seen examples of it in actual use on a range niche. Would love to see a sample photo to reassure me. Also, remember that if you choose to work with a thick tile or a remnant of some kind of rock from countertop on the back of the niche, that will cut down the depth of the niche shelf. If you want the area above range/cooktop to be an artistic focal point, I humbly suggest that you either make a niche OR some kind of tile design but not both. If you choose too fancy a niche back, the items standing within the niche will compete with the tile design for viewer's attention. Mine will be a working kitchen, so we're planning to put oil bottles, vinegar bottles, salt shaker, etc. there and they are supposed to get top billing. Don't forget that you can suspend a second shelf in the niche if there's room. Here is a link that might be useful: Niche topic thread

Thanks everyone. They used a Zinsser Sealer Shellac/water, Poloplaz Supreme Polyurethane - 2 coats. The flooring had flaws from sanding and they resanded and repeated the process. The flooring contractor was already unhappy that I had him redo the floors because of the significant dents and waves from the uneven sanding in two rooms. All of the floors had a rough texture after he was done the first time and you could see and feel the rough grain and in some spots felt like the finish was almost bare. His response to me was that I could put rugs to cover it the uneven sanding. No deal! So with an attitude, he said he would resand the two rooms that were sanded unevenly and screen and recoat the other rooms to help with the rough grain. He did all that. The grain no longer feels rough but does not look smooth like they did before they were refinished. He never admitted to me that he thought there was a problem but did admit to my GC that the work was not done correctly by his crew. During this process we were out another 7 days in a hotel (getting expensive here). So, I decided when we came back for the walk through, unless there significant flaws I was just going to love everything and move forward. I didn't see the bubbles until a few hours after the very brief walk-through. I cannot see living with those as they are significant through out the two rooms they resanded. I do not see them in the other rooms where there was just screen and coat. The reason for refinishing the floors is because of a flood we had in the kitchen and a small portion of two other rooms requiring a small portion of each those rooms to have some flooring replaced. At the same time we decided to do a full kitchen remodel as we had plans to do this within the next five years so thought it would be prudent to move up our plans. The GC is having him come back Monday to look at the bubbles. Now, I have to say, this flooring contractor was by far the most expensive bid and has had a very good reputation in the community for over 28 years (why we selected him over cheaper bids).

As PG22 said! If there is in fact a little soap IN the existing paint film......ITS GOTTA GO! Nothing you do now on top of that contaminated paint layer will adhere....for long. ESPECIALLY with a more humid environment like that!!!! It's probably gonna be an ugly job, I wish I could say otherwise!!! Once layer(s) are removed... 1) Rinse off lightly any sanding dust. 2) Patch & repair/retexturing if needed. 3) Use Zinssers 123 primer. A good/full even coat!! Buy NEW, good quality roller-covers, 3/8" nap. 4) Buy QUALITY paint in a Satin or higher sheen. Apply TWO full coats. >>>> If possible....let the new paint dry out a day or two before a ton of steam hits it. Faron