As a young teen I remember Kmart offering black & white folders with Jerry's suggestions as they used him as a spokes person for their Lawn & Garden dept. I've used many of his concoctions and in my Opinion his ideas were good for those times. The eighties and on. Organic as we have it today wasn't that common except for those who subscribed to Organic Gardening magazine and followed those suggestions they published. I use the Public Library collection of Gardening Books and can tell you that there are several well worn Jerry Baker Books in the collections. His distractors can say what they will about him being a quack and not ligit, but I'll speak for what his attempt to show beginner gardeners and fruit orchard growers that they could do with common chemicals for pennies. My Grand Mother used to read her women's magazines when I was a little kid and get similar tips for using common soda in water to "sweeten" soil, (adjust the PH) or using left over Alum disolved in water from the canning season to acidify the soil of the house plants. Before Baker I was buying so much stuff from Chevron/Ortho, and Rapid Gro, Virgo, and other such chemical fertilizer or insecticide vendors. Then again, I don't walk around my place with a badge on my shirt that states that I'm a "Master Gardener". I just don't take this stuff that seriously. In my orchard of 30 trees I've been buying "beneficial incects" which prey on pest insects. Lacewings, Trichogramma wasp, Lady Bugs, Praying Mantis, etc. I have bat boxes in the maple trees & Purple Martin boxes to keep those beneficial birds around my place so I don't have to use a fogger or any more chemicals than necessary. But thinking this way all goes back to my having read Jerry Baker's stuff.

You know what sugar is good for? Killing bacteria. That's why it's a traditional ingredient in preserves and why honey is a good antibiotic for wounds. How this would benefit soil is beyond me. And no, dishwashing soap is not the same or as good as insecticidal soap. The latter is actual soap, for one thing. Soap works by making things slippery. Dish soap is detergent. Detergent helps break up waxy materials. Waxy materials are what plants use to help protect themselves from insect predation. So what would you rather have on your plants? Something that helps encourage insect predation or something that doesn't? Jerry Baker is full of penny wise and pound foolish "remedies." If you follow his directions, you will be putting something on your plants every two weeks. Talk about work.

Jerry Baker still lives. Funny isn't it? For a second Thursday, which is one of my 2 watering days by city rule, I sprayed my dry, thatchy 1,000sf front lawn with water, and a 50/50 mix of grape soda (grape soda is about the highest in sugar that you can get, and it's less than 70 cents for a 2-liter at "Wally World".), lemon ammonia, and a little Murphy's Oil Soap thrown in for softening and wetting. 2 weeks of that, and the grass is nicely green, NOT necessarily like a lush dark green swath of carpet, but not bad at all, considering-- also, most of the thatch is pretty much gone. I started playing with Jerry Baker's advice, formulas, and ideas about 5 years ago, snapping up every one of his books that I came across in area thrift stores. My front "lawn", in those days was, literally, a 1000sf Florida sandbox. It's come a long, LONG way since, thanks mostly to the late Mr. Baker, and it's been a heck of a lot of fun besides. A real kick for that little "mad chemist" wannabe in me. If you read Baker's stuff, you will find out that, in the early days, he was just about as big into "hard-core" chemical use as anybody. Gradually, his tone and his advice changed into a whole variety of the quirky formulas made from household items that are still going 'round and 'round, and are STILL bickered over regularly by both the chem-chumps and the organically-inclined. Baker didn't live to see much but the beginnings of our latest "green revolution". He probably would have welcomed it to an extent, but then again. . . Gradually, Baker dropped the worst and most expendable of the chemicals. I don't know specifically what it was that precipitated his personal revolution-- however, in the process, he obviously found himself a niche full of (maybe slightly nutty) do-it-yourselfers like himself, and gently guided, fed and nurtured a whole lot of folks with gardening insecurities-- like myself. Call it whooey. if you want. Baker himself certainly doesn't care at this point. Meanwhile, my own lawn is still far, FAR from perfect. Still, of those in my neighborhood, it isn't bad at all, hardly the worst to be seen. It mostly grows nicely, and a good bit of green, which may or may not be mostly bermuda grass, and nearly the entire 1000 sf is covered. Further, it holds up pretty well despite 2-3 years of drought lately. All this with little more that some as much peat as I could afford to thrown at it, a little sulphur for further pH lowering ( because it started at over a 7), some once/twice a year amendments (amounting to roughly a dozen bags TOTAL of peat, topsoil, and composted manure). I WAS putting on as much as 20# of seed a year --could have used less, and had a lot more of it germinate maybe, AFTER a couple ton of amendments were rototilled in from , but I couldn't afford that. Other than the above improvements, I used and still use some version of Jerry Baker's watering tonics for at least one of the 2 waterings a week that I am allowed. Last time I did any digging in my front lawn, I even found myself with a few genuine, live. wriggling EARTHWORMS trying to escape my excavation. Pretty cool, that, since the critters might as well have been a top endangered species when I first started working out there. The entire front yard was just that dead. COULD IT HAVE BEEN DONE much faster, much easier, and with a whole lot more money spent on it? Sure! Absofreakinlutely. I could have just thrown down a bunch of St. Aug sod, and replaced it every few years when the inch of soil it comes with croaked from exhaustion, but hey-- where's the fun in that??

BIRDS Yes on the cheap bird toys, and saving money on diet, too! :D TOYS: Get a 1 qt. stainless steel bucket (google for it) on the web for less than $5 and it will last forever and go in the dishwasher for cleaning. Hang it where he won't go potty in it, and cross your fingers. 1 qt. is a fine size for an Amazon. The big macaws and such can do a 2 qt. bucket. Just use the SS, no other metal, as other metals can contain zinc, which is toxic to birds. For a little bird like a 'tiel or 'keet, you can use a clean yogurt container, cut vertical slits in the side, and fasten it to the side of the cage with an electrical cable tie. Then fill the bucket with his "used" safe broken toy parts, new toy parts, smooth cleaned beach rocks he can pick up but not swallow (fun to drop on the cage floor for the noise), and SAFE branches, flowers, leaves, and pinecones from the yard. If you don't know which plants and trees are safe for birds, you can google for the info. If it's not nesting season, you can also put in balls of wadded up paper... but don't do that during nesting season. If your bird loves to undo screws with his feet (cockatoos love this), get some stainless steel washers, nuts and screws and thread them through a small block of wood, or some plastic disks. That'll keep 'em busy. They're expensive to buy, but they last forever. At night pick up the toys off the cage floor and wash them (I put the plastic stuff in the dishwasher, but not the wood or rope), then return them in the morning. My birds all LOVE their buckets. I love them because I don't have to string a bunch of stuff. Another toy my birds love: grab a few drinking straws, cinch them in at the "waist" with a cable tie to form a pompom. My 'zon also loves those plastic easter eggs, but watch hard plastic as it can be sharp if broken. You can hide goodies in those plastic eggs, too. I also buy plastic chain at the hardware store and run it through the dishwasher to sterilize. Then I cut fleece in 1/2" to 1" wide strips. Don't make the strips long enough to wrap around a little neck. Thread the fleece through the chain, knot it once, and tie beads, blocks, Mirabella beads and hoops, and bird toy parts on the ends of the strings. It's very colorful, very interesting, and the fleece and chain are indestructible (provided you use heavy enough chain for the bird in question). You can replace the toy parts when they're chewed off. I save a ton of money by going to the bird fairs and buying toy parts there. Never take your bird to those places, and carefully sterilize everything you get there before giving it to your bird. If you have any local parrot stores or breeders, they can probably tell you where and when the shows are, or watch your local newspaper in the classifieds in the Birds For Sale column. If there are no bird fairs in your area, watch eBay and you can pick up bargains there. Again, sterilize everything that might have come from where other birds are. To sterilize things, I use Avicine (google for it), since it's recommended by the top avian disease researcher in the country. There is also a great section called "The Toymaker" at birdsnways.com. But use your head, as there's no guarantee everything there is safe for every bird. I strictly avoid all cotton rope for my 'zon as he gets too into his toys, and he once got his foot caught in it. We were lucky he wasn't hurt. He snaps bird-tanned rawhide immediately in two, so that's no good for him either. But they can't bite the fleece in two, and the fleece doesn't unravel dangerous threads. You can also sometimes find cheap baby toys at the thrift shop, but be careful they're safe, and clean them well. My birds LOVE their buckets! I think it satisfies the need for them to forage as they rummage through the contents trying to get to the bottom. You can switch the toys out to keep it more interesting. One set is being washed, so you use a different set. I swap buckets between my 'zon and RFM, and also between my G2 and TAG. But I don't give the medium sized bird's toys to the big birds or they would destroy them in a heartbeat. I usually soak the dirty toys in the bucket in water for a while, then hand scrub them with a stiff brush. Then I soak them in Avicine water for a few minutes, then rinse thoroughly. I don't soak the toys in Avicine first, as I want them to absorb water, not chemicals. BTW, if you're handy with a saw, you can pick up chunks of 2x4 (pine or fir) free out of a burn heap at a new building site, but ask their permission before you take anything. With wood stuff, you can sterilize it by baking it in an oven at 200 degrees for 1/2 hour -- but double-check me on the temp and time, please, by googling for the info (that's just from my memory). Then cut it into suitable sized chunks and drill holes in it if you want to string it, or just toss it in the bucket. NEVER give them treated lumber, as it will poison them. Or, just buy a 2x4 at the lumber yard. You don't have to dye the wood. FOOD $ SAVINGS: Seeds are not good for birds; but if you sprout the seeds they're one of the most nutritious foods in the world. Invest in a decent sprouter (I love my EasySprouter). Learn safe sprouting methods. If you only feed organic, there are mixes you can buy on the web. If you can't afford organic, there are lots of safe things in a good health food market bulk department that will sprout -- ask the clerk. You can sprout lentils from the grocery store (very cheap). You can sprout pigeon mix from the feed store (my birds get these every night). That is very inexpensive! You can sprout parrot seed, but it's expensive and it often contains other junk you have to pick out like dried fruit, nuts, and pellets -- no good. Feed the sprouts when the tails are still just teensy nubbins, don't let them grow long. That's the optimal nutrition, and the longer the tails, the more bitter the sprout. The birds just snap the tails off and drop them anyway. Birds LOVE sprouts -- that's mostly the way they eat seeds in the wild, if they can. Of course, they need fruits and other veggies, too, so shop for bargains. Do feed organic if you can; otherwise wash very well and peel most stuff (they peel their own grapes). And your 'zon needs the equivalent (in size) of two peanuts (out of the shell) in nuts per day. More than that can give him fatty liver disease. I vary which kind of nut my birds get every day -- all UNsalted and preferably raw. You can sprout raw nuts, too. Just soak them over night and rinse well. They don't grow tails. Macaws need more nuts than other birds. My RFM (mid sized macaw at 1 lb and 2' long) gets about 6 nuts a night. Almonds, btw, are loaded with calcium, which Greys need. If you're nervous about sprouting, just soak your seeds overnight in hot (bath temp) tap water. Then drain them in the morning, rinse well and refrigerate. That is vastly better for your bird than seeds that aren't sprouted. The old farmers used to always soak their chicken feed in a bucket overnight. They knew! On diet, your bird also needs a wee bit of cooked egg or meat every other day or so. My 'zon gets 1/2 HB egg. I slice and dice fruits and veggies for my birds every morning. They get sprouts and frozen veggies at night... plus anything healthy and not salted that I'm eating. I thaw frozen mixed veggies in a strainer run under hot tap water for a few seconds. Don't nuke their food. Forget the dairy, as they're not mammals -- but a wee bit of yogurt every few days is okay. I also sprinkle just a wee bit of powdered health food store vitamins over their breakfast each day, just to make sure they're getting their nutrition -- you know, the kelp, barleygrass, powdered carrots, etc. type mixtures. Like lightly "salting" their food with the vitamins. Remember, variety is the ticket to good nutrition, and it's better to pay the grocery store than the vet (and cheaper). A good vet will tell you that about 90% of a bird's longevity is in good nutrition and in cleanliness. I hope this helps the bird owners out there. :D