Sayde, We have tried it all. Having been in the restoration bussiness for a long time, you have a tendency to come across these situations from time to time...lol You can search around and find people and articles that will tell you what you want to hear, but for most cases it's not practical and won't give the desired results. I understand it's not what you want to hear, but jon and I are dealing you the truth. Adjusting/ moving hinges and adding catches are the #1 most effective method. If you choore to use heated moisture, it must be applied to the exterior side (concave) only...so you will need to strip the door of it's finish and sand before steaming. It then must be clamped for a week or two. Then...most likely, it will just spring back either right away or within time. The reverse of that repair is a better option to try. That is to attempt extracting the moisture from the wood from the convex side. Again, no finish can be present on the wood. Use a hot (dry) iron on the back of the door and then clamp. Be careful, but you must heat the wood to the point of extracting all moisture. A hot plate works better if you have a larger one. I have a large griddle in my kitchen I have used. Again...be careful not to overheat the wood. Your last and most invasive option is to cut grooves with a router and glue in battons and clamp up on a perfectly flat surface (I use a large piece of 1" thick marble on my workbench). Obviously, the glass needs to be removed for any of these options to be explored...or you could try the catch and hinge adjustment and be done. If you can refinish the door, you can shave it down with a wood plane until it's flush. Good luck!

I'm definitely not an expert, but we did just remodel a 1928 bathroom. Our ceiling and walls were pretty wonky. I am guessing if your ceiling is off, places in the walls are off - it's probably not even consistent on one wall! I don't feel like it was from settling (our house is brick) but more like the nuances of plaster. Because we had to live in this bathroom and were DIY, gutting it was not an option, however we both agree that would have been the best choice. It would have helped with electric, plumbing, setting the tiles easier, etc... We elected to do Durabond to smooth out the surfaces where we could. The walls weren't sanded down very far - just to get the paint to scuff. Any plaster that wasn't sound did break off from the vibration, and that meant that the area truly needed to be repaired a little more deeply.

Sophie - Our humidity is set at 53%. We are in East Texas, our AC is almost always on. The slabs were purchased from a sawmill by us and then taken to the builder, no idea about his RH. No dishwasher, just sink. The fittings are standard and installed correctly, haven't had issues. We thought maybe moisture issue as well that is why we put a dehumidifier under inside the island and covered everything in plastic to try and draw moisture out. After 2 weeks there has been no change. We really had to remove the sink and move the top (very heavy) but it looks like any option we choose to remedy the cupping will involve moving it.

As the person formerly known as Cancork, I'll answer as best as I can. The two layers is a variation on a theme. What it does is reduce the amount of ADHESIVE used in manufacturing. They are still using a multiple direction underlayer....without adding extra layers. They core is made up of wood that is laid side by side in different directions. Kind of like a basket weave or like parquet floor blocks. The grains are running in different directions yet only one layer has been used. Less glue = better VOC profile. The UV cured urethane finish is a "ho-hum" type of finish. Nothing exciting. Just an average finish. The 6mm thick hardwood wear layer is where the money is! The urethane finish + 6mm wear layer means this floor is GUARANTEED to be "refinished" at least twice...maybe even three times. So....they have reduced costs by using a single layer of wood for the core. They have reduced costs by using less adhesive to make the floor. They have reduced costs by using a rather "regular" UV urethane finish. They have ADDED value by working with a THICK wear layer. And all the VALUE is in the wear layer! So....save, save, save so that you can add VALUE with the expensive 6mm wear layer. It is definitely a product I would take a strong look at if I were to work with an engineered hardwood. That being said, the urethane finish isn't going to give the scratch resistance that many people demand. It isn't that type of finish. It is going to scratch....because that is what it is designed to do. I don't care about scratches....I used to sell/live with cork. Cork scratches like the dickens. But I DON'T CARE! That's me. You are you. Only you can decide where to put your emphasis. Personally, this looks to have a great presentation....because the MONEY is in the 6mm wear layer! That's worth it's weight in gold! That is your "money shot".