There are numerous reasons why you cannot install the light in that manner. Also if you have an existing recessed light fixture Im not sure how there is a ceiling box in that location. A recessed fixture is normally wired direct into the unit itself with no seperate box present. If there truly is a ceiling box then you could simply install an outlet in the box and then plug the light into the outlet. However my recomendation would be to purchase a light that is designed to be installed and wired directly.

I'm having the opposite problem...sort of. The house we bought has direct wire under cabinet lighting AND outlet strips. I like it because there's no outlets cut into the tile. The tile has a deep bevel, so I get why they did it. However, the power strips are old and yellowing. We would love to change them out, but don't know how without possibly having to remove the tile, which we don't want to do. We like this tile and haven't been able to find it in stores or online. We need a few pieces to put behind the stove after changing from a microhood to a regular vent.

you 'just' need to shorten the cord. my non-electrician husband is able to do this (its like replacing a bad plug... just shortening the cord first). (i am assuming when you say 'socket' you really mean 'outlet'. if you don't actually know the difference, you probably shouldnt shorten your cord.... a handyperson would be able to do this for you on any plug in lamp you choose. )

"An electrical device needs to be plugged into a stand alone surge protector (ie, not one installed as part of a structure's electrical feed) to have protection. Something that's plugged in elsewhere is, well, plugged in elsewhere." This is partially incorrect. Whole house surge protection protects every appliance within the house from external surges passing the protection device on service entry wiring (within its performance limits) and aids protection of devices within the house from surges generated within the house limited only by the various inductances of the wiring between the source of the surge, the device to be protected, and the surge protector as a function of the rise time of the surge waveform. Where other conductors besides the service wiring enter the house, additional surge protection against local lightening is also desirable due to this inductance. Stand-alone surge protection may help protect circuits close to them depending on how well they react and the bonding impedance to whatever counts as a true ground (water pipes and grounding rods, but not necessarily when a strike is nearby). Dealing with multiple current paths such as TV cables, ethernet cables, intercom cables, and telephone lines can be complex. A local surge suppressor may be configured to minimize voltage between hot and neutral, but the pair may rise in voltage together relative to some other attached cable, still allowing damage. Nearby lightening can induce currents into wiring as common-mode transients. Roam around the https://tpssurge.com/ website for indications of how far one can go in bounding a residence with protection. tl;dr: a local stand-alone surge protector may be insufficient in some cases, and a service entry (whole house) surge protector may be sufficient in other cases.