Which brand/type of caulk to seal interior trim?
caroline94535
14 years ago
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energy_rater_la
14 years agoUser
14 years agoRelated Discussions
What's the best trim paint for interiors (doors, baseboard mouldings)?
Comments (17)Would you mind sharing why you have a paint crush on the Break-through by PPG?? ProClassic satin (Extra White) is actually gorgeous and I love it. But BM Advance and SW ProClassic both take hours in between coats. My son, Jake, is doing the painting for me while he's home from college for the summer and he prefers to spray early morning and let it dry overnight. He's sanding between coats of primer and first coat of finish because the cabinets are old with rough spots. Sanding between coats helps a lot so it's totally worth the extra work. ProClassic takes a good 14 days to cure out so you can get a feel (literally) for the final finish and color; when it's fully "cooked" I like it a lot. But it's a slow process to get there with both brands (BM and SW) and the first day I didn't care for the chalky finish but that quickly changed as the paint cured. Break-Through is different you can sand/recoat in two hours and cures to final appearance within maybe 2-3 days or so. All of them sprayed, rolled, leveled nicely for us. We are not using a professional grade sprayer, just something we picked up at Lowe's. I have nothing bad to say about the paint BM or SW at all. Break-Through just dries and cures faster. ProClassic satin the is "prettiest" IMO but I'm super critical and it's not enough of a difference to sacrifice the chunk of time it requires to get to that pretty final finish - I just haven't had the extra time to spare with my recent projects so Break-Through has been a good solution. When I spec color for homeowners most painters around here spray lacquer with pro grade sprayers and it's a whole, huge production with masking and paper and tape.... and it stinks. We don't have the bandwidth or space to go that route. With Break-Through you have to wipe up any spills or splatter immediately because once it dries, it's not coming off - kind of wicked and unforgiving in that way....See MoreWhich paint type and brand for interior new house construction
Comments (2)We have renovated 2 homes in the last 20 years. I used Behr on the first because it was less expensive, we weren’t planning on staying and was easier to get from the big box store in the evenings (paint store had more limited hours). Never again! We painted ourselves and not only did we use more paint to adequately cover, it drips more. The other major issue was that when we went to sell 3-4 years later and had to touch up, the color had changed several shades—no way to touch up and feather it out to blend. I had to repaint 2 rooms it was so bad! On our second house, I have used nothing but Benjamin Moore and love it—goes on easier without dripping and covers much better and you save a lot more time in the long run with better results. We have always used eggshell for walls (cleans up great for years) and semi gloss for trim. Also, when I have gotten bids from professional painters, most of them will only use BM or SW for interior work (I am in the Midwest). It is more expensive in the short term, but well worth every penny!!!!...See Moreseal "pre-connectored" coax cable through exterior wall into interior?
Comments (19)I recently did this. My mom's house (stucco) has plastic thingies about 2" diameter, round, sits flat against the wall and has a small funnel-shaped hole in the center that extends into the wall. I'll call it a bushing. Drill a hole, put some silicone on the back side of the bushing that goes against the wall, stick it in place. Pass the cable through. When the cable is where you want it, squirt a final bit of silicone around the cable to seal it in its sleeve. You can find these bushings at the big box store with all the other cable tools and fittings. Edit: "Coaxial feed through wall bushing" https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH144-Coaxial-Feed-Thru-Bushings/dp/B00009W3BU...See Morehow to caulk exterior trim/siding?
Comments (6)Your title says "how to caulk" -- do you know how to caulk? The where should be obvious. Unfortunately, to check window flashing as klem1 suggested, you would need to remove the trim. I'll suggest it's too cold to caulk and paint. Latex (water based) paints and caulks need to be applied in above freezing temps and need above freezing temps to cure correctly. You could use a solvent based sealant instead of a typical caulk, but they are messy and not as easy to install. If you do get two or three days of warmer weather, I'd caulk but hold off on the painting until spring. I would prime everything, then two coats of paint. I understand it's all already primed, but the factory primer is thin and intended mostly to protect the material until it is installed. My go to caulk is Big Stretch. It's a bit more expensive, but worth it....See Moremacv
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