Need Advice: Replace Carpet around Banisters with Wood
betty2012
11 years ago
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betty2012
11 years agoUser
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Should I strip/refinish or replace banister?
Comments (13)Ok, so after reading all this great advice, here is what I am going to do: I am going to start with stipping just the handrail and the end piece (from the round ball at the top to the floor - what is this called?) I think I will keep the balusters and skirt piece on the side painted white. I will loosen up old paint, sand smooth as possible, repaint in our trim color for the house. Now, how can you tell when something was "meant" to be painted or "meant" to be stained? I did notice after doing some scraping that the last layer appears to be stain. So, does that mean that this wood must be stain quality? Any tips on how to keep the paint stripper away from the balusters while I am working on the just the handrail and end post? Would painters tape work?...See MoreReplacing flooring turns into dilemma: Re-carpet, Tile, or Wood
Comments (12)I agree with carpet. The other option is cork flooring. Cork will have the necessary cushion and slip resistance that your family require without having the look of carpet. But SAFETY comes before FASHION! A slip on anything other than carpet or cork will cause bone breaks and lengthy stays in hospital. And once in hospital, elderly people often become infected with things like C. diff which has a HIGH "kill rate". The pain and loss of quality of life a broken bone brings aside, the last thing you want an elderly family member to go through is a serious - hospital acquired - infection. Carpet or cork. Think fashionable resale once you no longer have the "need" for safe, cushiony flooring....See MoreReplace carpet with wood floor
Comments (16)Ma and Pa hardwood flooring stores have decades of experience. They will not sell junk because junk costs them money. They *should have installers on staff (because this is where you make your money) and with decades of knowledge about your area (location) your house type (build type as well as age) and micro climate. These are all SUPER important when it comes to understanding what works (in your situation) and what doesn't (normally) work. In theory they will steer you towards an appropriate material for your setting. It isn't fool proof, but it does mean you are getting a better shot at getting it right. Purchasing product AND labour from the same place means you have, in theory, a one-stop-shop. That means if something goes wrong with EITHER the material OR the labour, you only have one place to point the finger. You would be amazed how many times homeowners purchase the material and someone installs it only to find the installation VOIDED every warranty available. The store (the place that sold the material) can't do a thing for the homeowner. All they can do is tell you to take it up with installer. Of course the installer no longer answers the phone or has blanked the people that have issues with their work. Very frustrating. Longevity depends on how often a product can be 'refinished'. Stone = hundreds of years because it can be refinished dozens of time (mosaics found in the seaside port of Ostia outside of Rome = 2000 - 3000 years old). Solid hardwood = 60 - 100 years of service because they can be refinished 2-4 times. Engineered hardwood (with 3mm - 6mm wear layer) can have a life span of 50 - 80 years of service (2-3 refinishes). Linoleum (real linoleum not the fake stuff known as 'vinyl') can have a life span of 80 years because it requires waxing or polishing. The polish takes the abuse and the linoleum itself is left in tact. In other words you 'refinish' the polish on it dozens of times throughout it's life time. LVP = zero refinishes. Laminate = zero refinishes. Ceramic and Porcelain tile = zero refinishes (but can serve for 40+ years). And the flooring company that will NOT deal with moisture? Not a good sign but not unheard of. If they find moisture readings that are 'bad' enough for them to stop the installation, you will be on the hook to find a moisture mitigation company or wet slab company that will seal the slab. You will pay for that as an extra (which you would have to do anyway). And then you will pay for the slab to be leveled (which you would have to do anyway). It just means an extra step...which is ONE MORE person that is involved if there is a 'finger pointing contest'. The more people you can point the finger at, the less likely you will get someone (anyone) to step up and say, "We made a mistake. Our treatment didn't work. We owe you a new floor." A one-stop-shop is optimal because if something goes wrong, there is only ONE PERSON you can point a finger at. It is much simpler....See Morereplacing carpet with pre finished hard wood
Comments (8)If you're going to do pre-finished hardwood, then you need to think LONG TERM about the flooring in the rest of your home. What other rooms beyond the living room and stairs will you need to replace the flooring in the in next 5 years? What other rooms would you dream of replacing the flooring in? The reason to do this is that you will never find the pre-finished flooring you buy today when you want to make those future changes. So you either need to buy it all now, or wait, or be prepared for what your plan to match future flooring will be. But I suspect you really just want a suggestion of what to actually buy. That is so much a personal decision, and we have so little information about your situation. Personally, I would select something classic and timeless. White or red oak. Maybe natural maple. Probably not hickory or anything exotic. I would avoid anything gray, since that is supposed to be trending out. And it isn't naturally occurring in most wood (OK, driftwood can be gray, but that is the exception that proves the rule!). A couple of things to know: red oak can be red or orange or pink (orange and pink are just red with either yellow or white added!). Maple will definitely yellow a bit (or a lot) over time. A medium brown color (not too dark, and not too light) is relatively classic and neutral, and will therefore work with whatever colors you use in decorating your home. I would select something in a medium width (3 or 4 inches) if you are doing solid hardwood. Maybe 5 inches if you are in a climate without humidity. If you select an engineered wood, you can go wider, but it will cost you more. Unless you have large open spaces, I am not sure that the wider floors are worth the money. Anyway, that's my two cents. You are welcome to apply for a refund if you would like! Good luck with your project....See Morekirkhall
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