Hi Jake2007, Thanks for your reply and the link. I have seen things like this - similar to the fan convectors I have looked at (recommended by my HVAC contractor). I linked below a previous post from me that has more information about our setup. I decided to repost a question that just asked what some other options would be rather than this fan convector. But maybe that is the only option or at least the first to come to mind. Someone mentioned a ductless mini split system but I asked what that was but I did not get a reply. Can someone shed some light on this? Also someone else posted a link to an in-floor fan convector - similar to what my HVAc guy recommended. I'll check these out - but am concerned about a lot of noise from a fan. I have an HVAC contractor but other than - hydroair (which won't work in our situation for this room), high output baseboard heat, and the fan convector option he hasn't come up with any other thoughts. Unfortunately we did not use the same subs for AC and heating - something that goes back to our GC. What about an old fashioned radiator? Could I do this and would it be a good idea? Any other ideas anyone? Thanks! Here is a link that might be useful: my previous post on fan convectors

Okay, finally I have success! I'll detail what I did as it might save someone a lot of headache. First off, hot water pipes are thinner than cold water. I think cold water is type M and hot is type L or vice versa. No matter how many times I look that up, I still forget! Anyway, I got pretty good at cutting the thick one but was having MAJOR difficulty cutting the thin one. To make a long story short, I had to use a hand held key saw. Annoying, slow but that worked. Next, stick bread in the lines on both sides to block the water. You think you get all of the water out of the line, but you don't. With water in the line, soldering will be impossible. You'll have to heat the joints three times as long and the solders won't be good. I had leaks by not following this. A step which I knew but still didn't do. Stupid on my part. Okay, no more leaks. Now, I'm supposed to bleed the lines. Although my house was built in the 1930s, we added a large addition and the house is pretty new, including the heating system. It seems that the plumbers are no longer putting bleeders on the line. Mine don't have any. No problem. I should just open up point 1 in pic 2, and the valve on point 9, pic 1 (which you can't see) then open the garden house valve on line 1, pic 2. When the water flows out smoothly with no sputtering, the air is out, right? Well yes, but things just weren't working that way. I did everything I just said and water came out. Within 10 seconds, however, all the water came out and it just dried up! Uh, is that supposed to happen? Confused, I shut the line and waited about 30 minutes while I did other things. I came back and tried again. Same results!!! I had about enough of this plumbing project. Looks like it won and I lost. After about 10 successful projects, I was going to have to call in a plumber. I tried getting the job taken care of with my normal service contract, convinced that it was just a lack of knowledge on my part. I was told that since it was the weekend and they weren't sure the project fell under my normal service agreement, they might have to bill me...at the more expensive weekend rate...of $165 per hour!!! I quickly told the lady I'd figure it out myself. Searching this site, I found the answer. I did everything right except one thing. You have to continually add water to the line so that it keeps flushing the air out. You do that by flipping the little handle on point 5, pic 2. That automatically ensures that the pressure in the baseboards remains at the setting on the reducer by adding water when need be. However, if you open it manually, it will just let the water flow (also pushing the air out with it). If there's air in the line, the pipes aren't going to get hot, so you've gotta get the air out. With each bucket of water I let flow through, more of the line got hot. Three buckets of water later, the water was flowing smoothly and I had heat! Note that by me doing what I did, I introduced air into another zone, so I had to repeat the process for that zone as well. No biggie. Three more buckets later, that zone was working again! Now I don't know if there's a way to work on one zone while not affecting the others. I'll have to examine what I did a little and see if there's a sensible way of doing it. Anyway, hopefully this helps someone.

could be two things. If the fin tube is hitting the back plate or face of the radiation then it can make a noise when it heats up and cheaps from expansion. also it should have coasters under the fin tube to slide on. If is a continuous noise when the heat is on, it could be air in the lines. Check your pressure gage to see if you have at least 10 to 12 lbs. of pressure. If no pressure call service man. If you do have pressure check for air bleeders at the ends of your radiators. You might have to pull your end caps off the radiator to get to them. If you have bleeders there will be a little slot to put a screw driver in and turn just a little when the heat is going to let the air out. You will have to keep going around for a while to get it all out. If you don't have pressure you can't bleed air out. later paulbm

I posted this in the fireplace forum but this forum moves much faster. And I know some of you did additions or new homes with your new kitchens so I thought I could ask here. I am noticing noises when the gas fireplace insert expands/contracts when heating/cooling. Sounds like popping/someone banging a pot. Anyway NOT have it be so noisy? Is this normal? Our fireplace isn't finished yet so I am hoping once we have the surround/mantle done we will hear it much less. Thank you so much! FYI I have a Lennox ELDV Clean Face Gas Fireplace.