Hi I've had water marks so severe they permanently etched the glass. Found no solution if this happens. Not sure which chemical is the culprit. It can be avoided by using RO or rain water. If the chemicals don't work try polishing with steel wool. Will remove the spots but tends to leave a "haze" on the glass. Will not work on Acrylics. With these you can get a kit for scratch removal or use jewelers rouge. Good luck ,hope you don't have to go that far!!! gary

These aren't water marks (like one would find with wax finishes). These white events are the appearance of the layers of finish separating from one another. The "white" is actually air. The finish has failed - almost completely. There is nothing that will fix this save sanding it down to raw wood. As for deep cleaning before a buff and coat, it can involve "floor stripper" (the chemical floor strippers used in hospitals, etc.) or even screening machines used to remove "gunk" from the surface. The gunk I'm referring to = cleaning products, cooking oils, skin oils, soap, detergents, etc. Another issue is the time between COATS. Bona is like all other polyurethanes...it LOVES having a second coat applied INSIDE of 24 hours. In fact it is beneficial to have coat #1 and #2 applied rapidly one after another. Chemically the fresh coat is very "tacky". It GRABS the second coat incredibly well. It is the same idea as getting freshly chewed bubble gum to stick to freshly chewed bubble gum. The longer you leave the time between coats, the greater the chances of adhesion failures. If more than 24 hours has passed, then another round of buffing is REQUIRED. Yep. Required. That adds more money to the job because it adds more steps. This is all under the assumption that a second buff and coat on a floor that had one only 3 years before is considered "normal". From what I understand to be standard procedure, a single buff and coat is performed around about middle age of the floor (between year 10 through year 15). The cleaning/screening/buffing is the preparation and then the SINGLE coat of polyurethane is put down. A second buff and coat so soon after the first = unusual. If you want to tidy up the floor once again, you then move to the FULL SAND AND REFINISH. a Buff and coat is only a short term solution. Once done the buff and coat will help the original finish look "good" for another 5-7 years. That would bring the floors to the 20 - 25 year range. In other words, a second buff and coat applied without doing a full sand and refinish is not the norm. And a single coat of finish is the norm...not two. And the cure time is too short - especially for 2 coats. And the time between coats (4 days) is FAR too long without extra precautions. I would ask why the contractor agreed to perform a buff and coat only 3 years after the last one? And was the suggestion of a full sand/refinish ever discussed? Why or why not? And what was it that required a floor that appears to be less than 10 years old to require all these treatments? My apologies if I have misinterpreted your statements. It sounds like the floors were installed in 2011...Am I correct? I'm sorry but this is a complete redo. I mean sand and refinish down to raw wood. So many things that could go wrong have certainly gone wrong. Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba) is a dark floor. It is photosensitive. It darkens when exposed to "light". It can bleach out in DIRECT sunlight...but normally it turns dark. And then it stays dark. Dark floors show scuffs and scratches. It is the nature of the beast. A buff and coat (or in this case a second buff and coat inside of 3 years) isn't going to change that.

https://watermarkfixtures.com/faucets-plumbing/bathroom-fixtures/bath-sink-faucets/ WaterMark Fixtures of Louisiana appears to be a distributor for a large variety of manufacturers....... just like Ferguson. Popular Brands Kingston Brass WatermarkFixtures Kohler Fauceture Showerscape American Standard LuxArt Jones Stephens Gourmetier Barclay However, I do think they have designed and privately labeled some sinks and tubs made by other companies and are selling them exclusively. Not too many companies in the custom casting business anymore. The fixtures could be make in the US or in China. Companies do this all the time. The outfit out of Brooklyn called WaterMark Designs is a manufacturer of only faucets and not bathtubs or sinks etc.

Got around to scraping and sanding the interior trim. The damp part stays near the bottom, doesn't go up so I would think that's good. Interesting thing is this bottom space where definite cooler air is felt. I wondered if the water was coming from the door but base seal seems good and door frame/jam itself is solid, maybe even painted metal. What do you think might be going on/what's next?