Don't worry, if you have soapstone, then it can't be ruined by any chemicals. If you used a concentrated Mr. Clean, I would guess that you stripped off a lot of the previous patina from 2 months of oiling it. You may have to oil a few times to get the same amount of darkening that you had before. I dripped Goof Off all over one time and it took several oilings to really darken the areas to the same color as the rest of the counter. If you washed with soapy water in between the oilings, you may have removed even more oil. For the most part, I have found that washing the soapstone with just hot water and a microfiber cloth maintains the color by not removing any oil from the surface. I would recommend oiling it a few times without using any cleaners in between to see if you can get back to the same level of oxidation that you had before. Did you happen to sand it out? I have read that sanding can also change the tendency to have white spots if you use a different grit than the installer used. My installer told me to use 220 grit to sand it out.

These aren't water marks (like one would find with wax finishes). These white events are the appearance of the layers of finish separating from one another. The "white" is actually air. The finish has failed - almost completely. There is nothing that will fix this save sanding it down to raw wood. As for deep cleaning before a buff and coat, it can involve "floor stripper" (the chemical floor strippers used in hospitals, etc.) or even screening machines used to remove "gunk" from the surface. The gunk I'm referring to = cleaning products, cooking oils, skin oils, soap, detergents, etc. Another issue is the time between COATS. Bona is like all other polyurethanes...it LOVES having a second coat applied INSIDE of 24 hours. In fact it is beneficial to have coat #1 and #2 applied rapidly one after another. Chemically the fresh coat is very "tacky". It GRABS the second coat incredibly well. It is the same idea as getting freshly chewed bubble gum to stick to freshly chewed bubble gum. The longer you leave the time between coats, the greater the chances of adhesion failures. If more than 24 hours has passed, then another round of buffing is REQUIRED. Yep. Required. That adds more money to the job because it adds more steps. This is all under the assumption that a second buff and coat on a floor that had one only 3 years before is considered "normal". From what I understand to be standard procedure, a single buff and coat is performed around about middle age of the floor (between year 10 through year 15). The cleaning/screening/buffing is the preparation and then the SINGLE coat of polyurethane is put down. A second buff and coat so soon after the first = unusual. If you want to tidy up the floor once again, you then move to the FULL SAND AND REFINISH. a Buff and coat is only a short term solution. Once done the buff and coat will help the original finish look "good" for another 5-7 years. That would bring the floors to the 20 - 25 year range. In other words, a second buff and coat applied without doing a full sand and refinish is not the norm. And a single coat of finish is the norm...not two. And the cure time is too short - especially for 2 coats. And the time between coats (4 days) is FAR too long without extra precautions. I would ask why the contractor agreed to perform a buff and coat only 3 years after the last one? And was the suggestion of a full sand/refinish ever discussed? Why or why not? And what was it that required a floor that appears to be less than 10 years old to require all these treatments? My apologies if I have misinterpreted your statements. It sounds like the floors were installed in 2011...Am I correct? I'm sorry but this is a complete redo. I mean sand and refinish down to raw wood. So many things that could go wrong have certainly gone wrong. Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba) is a dark floor. It is photosensitive. It darkens when exposed to "light". It can bleach out in DIRECT sunlight...but normally it turns dark. And then it stays dark. Dark floors show scuffs and scratches. It is the nature of the beast. A buff and coat (or in this case a second buff and coat inside of 3 years) isn't going to change that.

https://watermarkfixtures.com/faucets-plumbing/bathroom-fixtures/bath-sink-faucets/ WaterMark Fixtures of Louisiana appears to be a distributor for a large variety of manufacturers....... just like Ferguson. Popular Brands Kingston Brass WatermarkFixtures Kohler Fauceture Showerscape American Standard LuxArt Jones Stephens Gourmetier Barclay However, I do think they have designed and privately labeled some sinks and tubs made by other companies and are selling them exclusively. Not too many companies in the custom casting business anymore. The fixtures could be make in the US or in China. Companies do this all the time. The outfit out of Brooklyn called WaterMark Designs is a manufacturer of only faucets and not bathtubs or sinks etc.

It’s so easy to seal it yourself. Requires no skill so you don't have to wait on your fabricator to do it. Just buy sealant at Home Depot - the “511 Impregnator Penetrating Sealer”. Get the 16 oz size which is the smallest. That small bottle will still outlast you in the home. Do NOT get the one that says ”enhancer”. You wipe it on thinly. Wipe off any excess and any drips down the backsplash. Keep the windows open, or if the weather is too cold, run the hood exhaust. Having said all that, marble is a porous stone. You can prevent the water stains your OP mentioned. The oil stains you later mentioned may be a little tougher to prevent. That is the nature of marble. In Europe they have marble in kitchens and bathrooms that are decades old and are etched and stained and nobody cares. You can’t alter the intrinsic makeup of marble, but the sealer will help prevent most stains.